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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1063

post #15931 of 20780
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerC View Post

It's not going to happen. Even if you could identify the manufacturer and the bunch, the colour would still likely be different due to minute differences in the dyeing process. Better idea might be just to have some snazzy black tie-related trousers whipped up, in a Black Watch check for instance.

Yes I understand. In my experience the color variation by run/roll issue has been a little overstated. I think if I did manage to find the fabric, I would be ok with any marginal difference. Especially on a black, which I can't understand to be a more difficult color to get consistent than others.


If I just get trousers made in Dugdale barathea or something, I wonder if the barathea texture would be enough to distinguish the trouser from the jacket as something more than an attempt to match. Or alternatively, has anyone seen navy tuxedo trousers worn with a black dinner jacket? decisions.gif
post #15932 of 20780
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knox View Post

Anybody know of a source for the old H. Lesser 9.5/10 oz. Lightweight Fine Worsted?
Plain weave/panama.
Thanks.
You will be a popular guy in some quarters if you figure that out. The last time I saw it in a book was over 10 years ago, and by then all that were left were the really dull, elderly patterns best suited to a Pythonesque chartered accountant.

Your closest equivalent may well be Harrisons Frontier, but partisans will insist on the Lesser superiority.
post #15933 of 20780
What kind of interlining have you guys used on commissioned fresco/crispaire jackets?

I ordered a full canvas jacket from a new operation a few months ago and just went to the first fitting. I noticed the interlining they were using was black, which is not something I am used to. When I asked about it, they said it was a 100% wool canvas made in Italy and used by Brioni and Zegna (sounds like marketing bs). They said that they couldn't use the typical natural colored canvas because it would show through the fresco weave.

I'm not sure I'm OK without using a canvas with any horsehair content. Also, ironically, they were still using horsehair canvas for the collar. I would be really uncomfortable asking them to redo the canvassing at this point (even though it appears that they have done it the lazy way, by machine).

But I'm curious whether anyone here has experience with this type of interfacing.


post #15934 of 20780
Quote:
Originally Posted by xizenta View Post

What kind of interlining have you guys used on commissioned fresco/crispaire jackets?

I ordered a full canvas jacket from a new operation a few months ago and just went to the first fitting. I noticed the interlining they were using was black, which is not something I am used to. When I asked about it, they said it was a 100% wool canvas made in Italy and used by Brioni and Zegna (sounds like marketing bs). They said that they couldn't use the typical natural colored canvas because it would show through the fresco weave.

I'm not sure I'm OK without using a canvas with any horsehair content. Also, ironically, they were still using horsehair canvas for the collar. I would be really uncomfortable asking them to redo the canvassing at this point (even though it appears that they have done it the lazy way, by machine).

But I'm curious whether anyone here has experience with this type of interfacing.



This is done so you won't see the interlining through the fabric.
post #15935 of 20780
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post

This is done so you won't see the interlining through the fabric.

I understand that. That's what the tailor said and I am inclined to believe it.

Have you done this? Are you familiar with this type of wool lining? Can you speak to its qualities versus horsehair? Can a horsehair canvas not be dyed to a darker color?
post #15936 of 20780
I don't own a porous suit, fresco, nor do I plan on owning one.
post #15937 of 20780
It's common, you're overthinking it, unclench and relax.
post #15938 of 20780

Anyone have any recommendations on a blue/navy wool herringbone fall/winter weight? 

post #15939 of 20780

I have a jacket made up in the Dugdale Whiterose Caldonaire that is one of my favorites. 13oz but feels quite substantial.

post #15940 of 20780
Both of my frescos are built like that. I don't notice any difference, aside from the fact that the canvas doesn't show through.
Edited by dieworkwear - 11/30/15 at 6:18pm
post #15941 of 20780

I demand horse's hair!!

post #15942 of 20780
Does fresco really keep you cool?
post #15943 of 20780
Yes
post #15944 of 20780
Everything in that picture is the same as on any fully canvassed jacket, only it has been dyed black.
post #15945 of 20780

its pretty common.

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