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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1055

post #15811 of 19918
Thanks for your input, you're actually the first person I have heard speaking negatively of the Brisa (for other reasons than the price that is). But thanks, much appreciated!
post #15812 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

Lined and unlined wear differently. An unlined sport coat in cashmere or moonbeam like soft jacketing will feel quite different on the shoulders than one that is lined. Like a hybrid between a cardigan and a jacket. I know some people who get everything unlined (summer or winter) because they prefer how it wears.

I think that some things definitely need to be unlined (if the fabric has properties that can only be used when unlined, like fresco like cloth). CBD suits should probably always be lined so the back always drapes smoothly on the waist/hips without catching. Everything else seems like a toss-up and a matter of preference IMO.

When I do unlined, I have a strong preference for 1/2 lining as I only really feel the benefit of the unlined option on the back of the jacket. The fronts are canvassed and lining makes little difference.

 

Many thanks for the input and insight on the topic ~ 

 

Talked to my tailor and he suggest trying unlined (Why not, he said), he also mentioned the softer look so we will try natural shoulder, no pad and he even suggest ventless ...not sure how the ventless will come out but we can change during fitting he said. 

post #15813 of 19918
Two things on the women's coat.

1. Womenswear (fashionable) is hard. I wouldn't try this coat with a men's tailor and if you are using a women's tailor, I would ask for a lot of samples of her work. We here make fun of designers many times, but that coat, the cut, the lines, the angles etc. you ain't getting that from a tailor.


2. Womenswear uses a lot of "technical" fabrics, not all wool/nylon blends are the same. You will almost assuredly get a very bad result if you try and make that coat in all wool, particularly from the mills discussed here.

My suggestion is buy that coat and alter it rather than to try and have it made.
post #15814 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by hippotamus View Post

Many thanks for the input and insight on the topic ~ 

Talked to my tailor and he suggest trying unlined (Why not, he said), he also mentioned the softer look so we will try natural shoulder, no pad and he even suggest ventless ...not sure how the ventless will come out but we can change during fitting he said. 

Personally dislike ventless unless we're talking a tuxedo. Looks like a woman's jacket.
post #15815 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrybrowne View Post


Personally dislike ventless unless we're talking a tuxedo. Looks like a woman's jacket.

 

I am little skeptical about the idea when my tailor raised it up....

but thats the answer after I mention to him the catching on the vent

 

Will see how it turn out during fitting

post #15816 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post

Two things on the women's coat. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
1. Womenswear (fashionable) is hard. I wouldn't try this coat with a men's tailor and if you are using a women's tailor, I would ask for a lot of samples of her work. We here make fun of designers many times, but that coat, the cut, the lines, the angles etc. you ain't getting that from a tailor.


2. Womenswear uses a lot of "technical" fabrics, not all wool/nylon blends are the same. You will almost assuredly get a very bad result if you try and make that coat in all wool, particularly from the mills discussed here.

My suggestion is buy that coat and alter it rather than to try and have it made
.

This is really good advice.
post #15817 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post

Two things on the women's coat.

1. Womenswear (fashionable) is hard. I wouldn't try this coat with a men's tailor and if you are using a women's tailor, I would ask for a lot of samples of her work. We here make fun of designers many times, but that coat, the cut, the lines, the angles etc. you ain't getting that from a tailor.


2. Womenswear uses a lot of "technical" fabrics, not all wool/nylon blends are the same. You will almost assuredly get a very bad result if you try and make that coat in all wool, particularly from the mills discussed here.

My suggestion is buy that coat and alter it rather than to try and have it made.

+many
post #15818 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by S K M View Post

How would you guys describe the difference between the LL navy blue Brisa and Minnis Fresco 0516? I really love the depth of colour of the 0516, but I'm somehow tempted to try out the Brisa instead, though I guess it's more smooth and less coarse than the LL? Any inputs much appreciated smile.gif

 

+1  amazing inky blue

post #15819 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by S K M View Post

How would you guys describe the difference between the LL navy blue Brisa and Minnis Fresco 0516? I really love the depth of colour of the 0516, but I'm somehow tempted to try out the Brisa instead, though I guess it's more smooth and less coarse than the LL? Any inputs much appreciated smile.gif

0516 is a blue-ish grey colour. I prefer Fresco over Brisa as it holds shape much better than Brisa. Brisa also hangs longer than Fresco, probably due to its weave.
post #15820 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by hippotamus View Post
 

Talked to my tailor and he suggest trying unlined (Why not, he said), he also mentioned the softer look so we will try natural shoulder, no pad and he even suggest ventless ...not sure how the ventless will come out but we can change during fitting he said. 

 

So, essentially, a shirt?

post #15821 of 19918
A question: what's the hive mind "consensus" of Styleforum on the cloths of Vitale Barberis Canonico? I'm particularly interested in their flannels at the moment.
post #15822 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

A question: what's the hive mind "consensus" of Styleforum on the cloths of Vitale Barberis Canonico? I'm particularly interested in their flannels at the moment.

They have some decent stuff. I recall the 'P' line are actually fine for regular use.
post #15823 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

A question: what's the hive mind "consensus" of Styleforum on the cloths of Vitale Barberis Canonico? I'm particularly interested in their flannels at the moment.

Unlike the smaller British firms, they have stuff across a spectrum - from middling quality worsteds to cloths that can match Lesser, Smith's and the like.

I'm not that familiar w/ their flannels, but Italians tend to primarily offer lightweight 10/11oz. flannels (on which I remain hesitant)
post #15824 of 19918

I've worn their flannel on Suit Supply suit, and I'd say it's pretty decent, if not as good as the Fox I have, and presumably Minnis as well, but mostly because I prefer the greater texture and so on. If you just want a subtle flannel, for milder winters/autumns, they might be a good choice, and in fact that's what I have that one suit for.

post #15825 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

A question: what's the hive mind "consensus" of Styleforum on the cloths of Vitale Barberis Canonico? I'm particularly interested in their flannels at the moment.

I have some of their lightweight flannel (9oz if I recall) and tropical worsted and have been more impressed than I expected. They don't exactly wear cool, but they drape OK, with a reasonable handle and from my use so far seem at least as handwriting as one could expect from lightweight flannel.
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