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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1054

post #15796 of 19918
Lined and unlined wear differently. An unlined sport coat in cashmere or moonbeam like soft jacketing will feel quite different on the shoulders than one that is lined. Like a hybrid between a cardigan and a jacket. I know some people who get everything unlined (summer or winter) because they prefer how it wears.

I think that some things definitely need to be unlined (if the fabric has properties that can only be used when unlined, like fresco like cloth). CBD suits should probably always be lined so the back always drapes smoothly on the waist/hips without catching. Everything else seems like a toss-up and a matter of preference IMO.

When I do unlined, I have a strong preference for 1/2 lining as I only really feel the benefit of the unlined option on the back of the jacket. The fronts are canvassed and lining makes little difference.
post #15797 of 19918
I've become increasingly annoyed by how my unlined jackets catch on my waist/hips.
post #15798 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by hippotamus View Post
 

 

Thats an interesting question, extending from this, on winter fabric. 

Would you guys do cashmere unlined ? 

 

For tweed I am sure one would lined due to the scratchy-ness. 

 

How about something soft like cashmere or woolen flannel ?


No.

post #15799 of 19918
Umm so quarter lined jacket and fully lined trousers for the cream linen suit. Got it, thanks.
post #15800 of 19918

I have a quarter lined cashmere sport coat that I really like, but it does tend to catch on my waste which leads to the vents acting funny.  That being said, I love how it feels wearing it.

All in all, I'd probably stick to lined stuff in the future.

post #15801 of 19918
Gentlemen,

I've never purchased cloth for a project before but, if you can believe it, my girlfriend is forcing my hand for a project of hers (she's actually going to get a MTM coat before me!).

She's found a coat that she loves but is looking to get one made with some slight alterations. However, she's in love with the fabric - a wool/nylon 80/20 blend that has a bit of heft with structure but still drapes nicely - and wants to get near exactly the same thing. Since I don't have local access to fabrics and can't shop them by hand, I'm not sure how to go about finding something similar. Any tips on how to proceed?

If it helps - here's pics from the coat (it's from net-a-porter here: http://www.net-a-porter.com/us/en/product/572869/co/wool-blend-coat )




Appreciate any input!
post #15802 of 19918
If a RTW coat is solid but not too heavy, figure something like 17-20oz. (I'm guessing-- someone in the industry can set me straight.) If you don't want an enormous premium, look for wool without cashmere or anything like that. Lambswool will be a bit more luxurious and expensive-- maybe worth it.

Go to the Harrisons of Edinburgh site, and their coatings (Harrisons own label, and W Bill) will have a lot of options. The Merchant Fox has a smaller but very nice book, as well. HFW Minnis has some very basic choices, as does Dugdale.
post #15803 of 19918
I think for women, they probably will like the offerings of Ariston and Drapers with the vibrant colours.

I also think women tend to like lighter weight fabrics.

Btw the cut of the coat looks really long, it probably only works on heels.
post #15804 of 19918
I was thinking photoshop
post #15805 of 19918

That woman is at least 8ft tall

post #15806 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by chobochobo View Post

I was thinking photoshop
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post

That woman is at least 8ft tall
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

Btw the cut of the coat looks really long, it probably only works on heels.

Actually, I think it's a visual trick of the buttons all having a high placement on the jacket. My girlfridn is about 5'6 or 5'7 and was wearing it with country type boots that had a much lower stacked heel and it came to about an 1-2 inches off the floor.

Yes, that's not very practical out in a real world of snow, but we're in Florida and where that doesn't happen and, more importantly, she prefers the long "almost to the ground" look irregardless of whether it's functional or not. (shakes head) "women."
post #15807 of 19918
Quote:
Originally Posted by Concordia View Post

If a RTW coat is solid but not too heavy, figure something like 17-20oz. (I'm guessing-- someone in the industry can set me straight.)

Concoria - Thanks for all the input.

Can anyone else weigh in as to whether that fabric eyeballs like a 17-20oz or higher/lower?

Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

I think for women, they probably will like the offerings of Ariston and Drapers with the vibrant colours.
I'll take a look at those, but in this case she wants a charcoal or black
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

I also think women tend to like lighter weight fabrics.
I think you are generally right, but in this case she likes this piece being a bit more substantial.
post #15808 of 19918
@razl, for what it's worth, I find that fabric stores (the high-end ones) and jobbers usually carry more women's fabrics than men's. If you're not in the US, Mood Fabrics in NYC will do remote orders. They also get a lot of turnover (like a lot of these places), so it's worth checking back every once in a while.
post #15809 of 19918
How would you guys describe the difference between the LL navy blue Brisa and Minnis Fresco 0516? I really love the depth of colour of the 0516, but I'm somehow tempted to try out the Brisa instead, though I guess it's more smooth and less coarse than the LL? Any inputs much appreciated smile.gif
post #15810 of 19918
The color on the Brisa is nice - I've seen it described as an inky blue and that seems pretty much perfect from what I remember.

But I hate the Brisa suit I have - it's not a smooth cloth but very spongy and wrinkles when you look at it.

If you like Fresco, you won't necessarily like Brisa and - in my case anyway - will actively dislike the Brisa.
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