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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 1053

post #15781 of 19898

ugh - a fresco jacket with lined back?  :confused:

post #15782 of 19898
I've gotten all of my fresco either quarter-lined or half-lined through Chan. It's definitely a turn-off that Steed won't do anything but full-lining. I was considering trying them out at some point.
post #15783 of 19898
I don't want to speak definitively, but they certainly weren't into the idea of me doing anything other than fully-lined on a jacket that is expressly meant to be worn in hot weather. And I've heard similar things from other people who have asked in the past.

That said, I have a suit in Minnis Fresco (not from Steed) that is fully-lined and the lining is incredibly thin. The jacket breaths just as well as any of my unlined/buggy-lined jackets. Matthew assured me they would use a super-light lining for the same effect.
post #15784 of 19898
Quote:
Originally Posted by Limniscate View Post

I've gotten all of my fresco either quarter-lined or half-lined through Chan. It's definitely a turn-off that Steed won't do anything but full-lining. I was considering trying them out at some point.

They have done a quarter lined jacket for me - for one of my Piuma LL suits. So not sure they are as dogmatic as all that.

On balance I really don't think it matters a great deal.
post #15785 of 19898
Quote:
Originally Posted by bourbonbasted View Post

I don't want to speak definitively, but they certainly weren't into the idea of me doing anything other than fully-lined on a jacket that is expressly meant to be worn in hot weather. And I've heard similar things from other people who have asked in the past.

That said, I have a suit in Minnis Fresco (not from Steed) that is fully-lined and the lining is incredibly thin. The jacket breaths just as well as any of my unlined/buggy-lined jackets. Matthew assured me they would use a super-light lining for the same effect.

I use Ermazine in all of my jackets but haven't compared to Bemberg.
post #15786 of 19898
Quote:
Originally Posted by R.O. Thornhill View Post

They have done a quarter lined jacket for me - for one of my Piuma LL suits. So not sure they are as dogmatic as all that.

On balance I really don't think it matters a great deal.

I was going to ask if lining helps with draping. I'm having some issues with the back of my Chan jackets and was wondering if the lining adds weight to improve drape.
post #15787 of 19898
Quote:
Originally Posted by Limniscate View Post

I use Ermazine in all of my jackets but haven't compared to Bemberg.

I know my Fresco is bemberg, though unsure what the difference might be with Ermazine. At any rate I asked for whatever was lightest/breathed the best.
post #15788 of 19898
Quote:
Originally Posted by Limniscate View Post

I was going to ask if lining helps with draping. I'm having some issues with the back of my Chan jackets and was wondering if the lining adds weight to improve drape.
It might keep the jacket from getting stuck like velcro on your shirt. Depends on the jacket material and the shirt, of course.
post #15789 of 19898


I have three linen suits, including one from Steed. All fully lined. Not that this is the reason that they are all lined, but I do not like partially lined jackets. At all.

post #15790 of 19898
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post

Has anyone ever gotten a linen suit fully lined, am I asking for trouble if I do? My tailor talked me out of getting the jacket quarter lined.

 

Thats an interesting question, extending from this, on winter fabric. 

Would you guys do cashmere unlined ? 

 

For tweed I am sure one would lined due to the scratchy-ness. 

 

How about something soft like cashmere or woolen flannel ?

post #15791 of 19898
Quote:
Originally Posted by hippotamus View Post
 

 

Thats an interesting question, extending from this, on winter fabric. 

Would you guys do cashmere unlined ? 

 

For tweed I am sure one would lined due to the scratchy-ness. 

 

How about something soft like cashmere or woolen flannel ?

 

Why would you want that unlined?

post #15792 of 19898

Um.....mainly for the weigh

 

I know the linning doesnt weigh much, but I do want the jacket lightest possible

 

Plus for unlined stuff, since you can see the inside, tailors cannot cut corner on work, which lots of them does....

 

lots of RTW jacket I see these days are unlined, even with cashmere, but sure their work is hard to compare with handwork on a bespoke work

post #15793 of 19898
Unlined cashmere just sounds like it would break down easily.
post #15794 of 19898
Quote:
Originally Posted by hippotamus View Post

Um.....mainly for the weigh

I know the linning doesnt weigh much, but I do want the jacket lightest possible

Plus for unlined stuff, since you can see the inside, tailors cannot cut corner on work, which lots of them does....

lots of RTW jacket I see these days are unlined, even with cashmere, but sure their work is hard to compare with handwork on a bespoke work

You gain nothing from having cashmere or flannel unlined. If anything it will be prone to catching the back of your shirt.
post #15795 of 19898
Quote:
Originally Posted by hippotamus View Post

Um.....mainly for the weigh

I know the linning doesnt weigh much, but I do want the jacket lightest possible

Plus for unlined stuff, since you can see the inside, tailors cannot cut corner on work, which lots of them does....

lots of RTW jacket I see these days are unlined, even with cashmere, but sure their work is hard to compare with handwork on a bespoke work

Linning has protection to the fabric, a jacket or trouser has linning wears out slower.
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