Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 10

OK Manton you just don't like checked sports coats that much do you?

Sorry, but I do. It's surely a personal preference rather than a rule written in stone.

I totally agree that sports coats should be marked out as such. To that end cloths with rougher finishes are strongly preferable. All true.

However, if sufficiently marked out as a sports coat in every other way, that cloth could be made to work for a summer coat. I was thinking of slightly fancy brown buttons, patch pockets with a lighter linen canvass and natural shoulders. A shorter coat and a more relaxed fit would also help.

I think never say never.

That fabric begs for a DB and not a slouchy drapy AS type but a DB with some cleanliness. Even like a Brioni DB. I could feel this but not explain it until I read Manton comment about the finish. Yes, the fabric has a finish that makes it suitable for jackets and for making trousers (it will be durable and can keep a crease). No that is not the only criterion for making suit vs a jacket but in this case, I would lean that way.

The Breanish tweed posted a few pages ago, by contrast, does not make good trousers. I think they bag too quicky. I have a suit length of the fabric (oatmeal with orange plaid) that I so want to make a suit from but I may heed Manton advice reg the trousers. Also does not look like it can keep a crease.

Quoted for truth.

I have 2 sportcoats made from this book (which is also sometimes marketed as a H. Lesser book). The stuff is beautiful

I personally believe that the fabric is far too busy and 'colorful' for a DB.

Au contraire! That'd make a very nice ( structured) DB. Tastes differ, but I could see it working- one would need cojones to pull it off tho.
That said, it'd look great as a summer SB as well.

It's really not a jacketing- If I saw it as a jacket, I'd wonder "where's the pants?"

If we are speaking about aragon765's cloth, then I agree it would make a bad odd jacket. As a casual suit, I think DB would be pushing it. I dont know if you would need cohones do make this up as DB (Though those always help) but a large wardrobe might be a starting point. As a 3 button or one button SB, even a one button peak lapel it might be very interesting. That cloth looks so fine, almost like summer pinpoint shirt material. If I might ask Aragon765, how did you come by this fabric? My apologies if Ive missed te fabric's story in the thread.

French mills are under-represented here. I'd like to know where it came from as well. As a DB I'd see it with a white on white patterned shirt, panama and bucks. . Mebbe a powder blue tie.
While not for everyone, I'd wear it to work on a sunny July day.

I know nothing about French mills and would love to remedy that. Are there many? Any?
Are you even sure that label represents a mill ans isn't just the name of the distributor or retailer?

Going today to secure some 8 oz. brown/red pinstripe that is at my tailor's. It's French made. I'll ask what was the name of the mill.

This would make a terrible sport jacket, a ridiculously bad double breasted suit and a just passable SB suit. The base color is okay, but the windowpane color is not. Anybody thinking this is an ideal fabric for a DB suit needs his eyes and head examined.

So sayeth the guy with the black and white seercucker jacket

I have a Crispaire suit made up as a SB out of a very similar blue nailhead. No windowpane, though. I like the color and it is a great spring or summer suit. I even wear it in the fall with the vest.