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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 10

post #136 of 11675
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
You have spent too long whacking 100 year old cloth with brooms and inhaling the dust. That is a suiting. Awful as an odd jacket.

OK Manton you just don't like checked sports coats that much do you?

Sorry, but I do. It's surely a personal preference rather than a rule written in stone.
post #137 of 11675
Thread Starter 
I do like them, but very few of them. I have one, in fact. I will post a pic soon for the green contest.

To my eye, the best checked summer odd jacket book ever is the Carlo Barbera for Lesser 8 ounce lambswool.

Jacketings should not have a suiting finish, as that blue has. Plus, the color and pattern make it clearly a suiting.
post #138 of 11675
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

Jacketings should not have a suiting finish, as that blue has.

I totally agree that sports coats should be marked out as such. To that end cloths with rougher finishes are strongly preferable. All true.

However, if sufficiently marked out as a sports coat in every other way, that cloth could be made to work for a summer coat. I was thinking of slightly fancy brown buttons, patch pockets with a lighter linen canvass and natural shoulders. A shorter coat and a more relaxed fit would also help.

I think never say never.
post #139 of 11675
That fabric begs for a DB and not a slouchy drapy AS type but a DB with some cleanliness. Even like a Brioni DB. I could feel this but not explain it until I read Manton comment about the finish. Yes, the fabric has a finish that makes it suitable for jackets and for making trousers (it will be durable and can keep a crease). No that is not the only criterion for making suit vs a jacket but in this case, I would lean that way.

The Breanish tweed posted a few pages ago, by contrast, does not make good trousers. I think they bag too quicky. I have a suit length of the fabric (oatmeal with orange plaid) that I so want to make a suit from but I may heed Manton advice reg the trousers. Also does not look like it can keep a crease.
post #140 of 11675
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
To my eye, the best checked summer odd jacket book ever is the Carlo Barbera for Lesser 8 ounce lambswool.

Quoted for truth.

I have 2 sportcoats made from this book (which is also sometimes marketed as a H. Lesser book). The stuff is beautiful
post #141 of 11675
Quote:
Originally Posted by oscarthewild View Post
That fabric begs for a DB and not a slouchy drapy AS type but a DB with some cleanliness. Even like a Brioni DB.

I personally believe that the fabric is far too busy and 'colorful' for a DB.
post #142 of 11675
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post
I personally believe that the fabric is far too busy and 'colorful' for a DB.

Au contraire! That'd make a very nice ( structured) DB. Tastes differ, but I could see it working- one would need cojones to pull it off tho.
That said, it'd look great as a summer SB as well.

It's really not a jacketing- If I saw it as a jacket, I'd wonder "where's the pants?"
post #143 of 11675
Quote:
Originally Posted by yachtie View Post
Au contraire! That'd make a very nice ( structured) DB. Tastes differ, but I could see it working- one would need cojones to pull it off tho. That said, it'd look great as a summer SB as well. It's really not a jacketing- If I saw it as a jacket, I'd wonder "where's the pants?"
If we are speaking about aragon765's cloth, then I agree it would make a bad odd jacket. As a casual suit, I think DB would be pushing it. I dont know if you would need cohones do make this up as DB (Though those always help) but a large wardrobe might be a starting point. As a 3 button or one button SB, even a one button peak lapel it might be very interesting. That cloth looks so fine, almost like summer pinpoint shirt material. If I might ask Aragon765, how did you come by this fabric? My apologies if Ive missed te fabric's story in the thread.
post #144 of 11675
Thread Starter 
^^^ Doesn't posting in a thread I started violate your silent treatment policy?
post #145 of 11675
Quote:
Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff View Post
If we are speaking about aragon765's cloth, then I agree it would make a bad odd jacket. As a casual suit, I think DB would be pushing it. I dont know if you would need cohones do make this up as DB (Though those always help) but a large wardrobe might be a starting point.


As a 3 button or one button SB, even a one button peak lapel it might be very interesting. That cloth looks so fine, almost like summer pinpoint shirt material.

If I might ask Aragon765, how did you come by this fabric? My apologies if Ive missed te fabric's story in the thread.

French mills are under-represented here. I'd like to know where it came from as well. As a DB I'd see it with a white on white patterned shirt, panama and bucks. . Mebbe a powder blue tie.
While not for everyone, I'd wear it to work on a sunny July day.
post #146 of 11675
Quote:
Originally Posted by yachtie View Post
French mills are under-represented here. I'd like to know where it came from as well. As a DB I'd see it with a white on white patterned shirt, panama and bucks. . Mebbe a powder blue tie.
While not for everyone, I'd wear it to work on a sunny July day.

I know nothing about French mills and would love to remedy that. Are there many? Any?
Are you even sure that label represents a mill ans isn't just the name of the distributor or retailer?
post #147 of 11675
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post
I know nothing about French mills and would love to remedy that. Are there many? Any?
Are you even sure that label represents a mill ans isn't just the name of the distributor or retailer?

Going today to secure some 8 oz. brown/red pinstripe that is at my tailor's. It's French made. I'll ask what was the name of the mill.
post #148 of 11675
This would make a terrible sport jacket, a ridiculously bad double breasted suit and a just passable SB suit. The base color is okay, but the windowpane color is not. Anybody thinking this is an ideal fabric for a DB suit needs his eyes and head examined.
post #149 of 11675
Quote:
Originally Posted by iammatt View Post



This would make a terrible sport jacket, a ridiculously bad double breasted suit and a just passable SB suit. The base color is okay, but the windowpane color is not.

Anybody thinking this is an ideal fabric for a DB suit needs his eyes and head examined.


So sayeth the guy with the black and white seercucker jacket
post #150 of 11675
Quote:
Originally Posted by iammatt View Post


This would make a terrible sport jacket, a ridiculously bad double breasted suit and a just passable SB suit. The base color is okay, but the windowpane color is not.

Anybody thinking this is an ideal fabric for a DB suit needs his eyes and head examined.
I have a Crispaire suit made up as a SB out of a very similar blue nailhead. No windowpane, though. I like the color and it is a great spring or summer suit. I even wear it in the fall with the vest.
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