Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[bertie]



I have an unfunded liability that soon will become funded, a black and white herringbone jacketing. This will become a spring/autumn casual jacket, and so I was thinking about patch pockets (maybe flapped), and double stitching on lapels, pockets, etc. The one decision I still need to make is whether I should have it unstructured or not. Suggestions?

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

If the fabric is heavier, unlined/unstructured probably won't make much of a difference. If it is lighter - could work as you suggest. Most of my tweeds are P&H Hartwist and at 560g the lining does not add much to the structure.

 

[bertie]



For me, the Lesser 13 oz has been my favorite suiting in terms of look and utility.

I just got the Lesser 16 oz samples and will likely get a couple of suits made up. I really like the weight and feel.

 

[etkl]



I just got the Lesser 16 oz samples and will likely get a couple of suits made up. I really like the weight and feel.

I think the 16 oz is great as well, just not as versatile.

 

[bertie]



I think the 16 oz is great as well, just not as versatile.

I would agree with your comment on versatility in general. More versatile for me though as I live in a colder place and could wear as a 3p 10 months of the year comfortably. I'm hoping the Lesser 16 oz fills the current gap between my 340 and 475 g flannels.

 

[etkl]



I would agree with your comment on versatility in general. More versatile for me though as I live in a colder place and could wear as a 3p 10 months of the year comfortably. I'm hoping the Lesser 16 oz fills the current gap between my 340 and 475 g flannels.

It should. It's great cloth. Do you live north of Canada?

 

[bertie]

There is nothing north of Canada

I live in western Canada. I am also more sensitive to cold weather since I lost a significant amount of weight some years ago. Heavier fabric wrinkles less and hangs better I find..

If I lived in a warmer place, I would use Harrisons Cru Classe for most of my stuff as it is my all-time favourite fabric.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Alaska, kinda.

 

[bertie]



Alaska, kinda.

No - Russia is the other way.

 

[etkl]



There is nothing north of Canada

I live in western Canada. I am also more sensitive to cold weather since I lost a significant amount of weight some years ago. Heavier fabric wrinkles less and hangs better I find..

If I lived in a warmer place, I would use Harrisons Cru Classe for most of my stuff as it is my all-time favourite fabric.

Wow. The Cru Classe is very different from the cloths under discussion, which are hard and dry.

 

[bertie]



Wow. The Cru Classe is very different from the cloths under discussion, which are hard and dry.

Absolutely - but it drapes beautifully and has better wrinkle resistance than all but the heaviest fabrics. It also just feels luxurious to touch/stroke. Just give me a moment.

 

[dan'l]



Sorry, I do mean fully lined and structured cut, the typical English clean look will serve the cloth better.

Is there something inherently wrong with a half-lined tweed coat? Personally, it seems to breathe better, since there is no synthetic barrier between the wearer and the wool. Or perhaps I am misinformed?

 

[poorsod]

I've been wearing my Lesser 16 since November. It wears cooler than my 13oz flannel. Not that surprising, I guess, given that the fuzzy flannel would be better at insulation.

 

[bertie]



I've been wearing my Lesser 16 since November. It wears cooler than my 13oz flannel. Not that surprising, I guess, given that the fuzzy flannel would be better at insulation.

That's what I'm hoping for. In your experience how does the 16 oz resist wrinkles and keeps a crease?

 

[poorsod]



That's what I'm hoping for. In your experience how does the 16 oz resist wrinkles and keeps a crease?

It's good. I'm thinking of getting 2 more.

 

[add911_11]



Is there something inherently wrong with a half-lined tweed coat? Personally, it seems to breathe better, since there is no synthetic barrier between the wearer and the wool. Or perhaps I am misinformed?

i find anything half lined is inherently wrong. It is something created by brands to save cost. Now it is somehow a 'luxury' to have your jacket half lined.

Only me though, so please go ahead if you like it.