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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 692

post #10366 of 12526

I know this may not be the best place to ask, but can an interlining be added to the collar of a shirt without having any additional cloth? I had some shirts made, and apparently when I asked for a lightweight unfused liner, that translated to: no lining at all. :cloud:

 

TIA,

 

DL-

post #10367 of 12526
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidLane View Post

can an interlining be added to the collar of a shirt without having any additional cloth?
Yes.
post #10368 of 12526

Does anyone have any good recommendations for a mid-to-dark grey cloth for odd trousers.  Needs to be relatively durable and no more than mid-weight (to pair well with an 11 oz hopsack blazer in dark navy).  I was thinking 11 oz worsted flannel or twill.  Would be grateful for any suggestions (either from specific books for worsted flannel / twill or alternative options to consider).

post #10369 of 12526
Quote:
Originally Posted by Balfour View Post

Does anyone have any good recommendations for a mid-to-dark grey cloth for odd trousers.  Needs to be relatively durable and no more than mid-weight (to pair well with an 11 oz hopsack blazer in dark navy).  I was thinking 11 oz worsted flannel or twill.  Would be grateful for any suggestions (either from specific books for worsted flannel / twill or alternative options to consider).
I know it is almost 12 oz, but worsted flannel do not work ver well at lighter weights...



From the Worsted & Woollen flannels bunch F392/11
post #10370 of 12526
Holland and Sherry does a twill-- softer than cavalry twill-- that I like a lot. I have forgotten the name but it does come in mid as well as 13oz.
Several colors in addition to mid grey.
post #10371 of 12526
Quote:
Originally Posted by Concordia View Post

Holland and Sherry does a twill-- softer than cavalry twill-- that I like a lot. I have forgotten the name but it does come in mid as well as 13oz.
Several colors in addition to mid grey.

Force 10?
post #10372 of 12526
Last fitting for this jacket. HFC clearance fancy blazer fabric. I am now worrying about what should I wear with it... Probably need to order a pair of pale grey worsted pants too.


post #10373 of 12526
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maccimus View Post

Last fitting for this jacket. HFC clearance fancy blazer fabric. I am now worrying about what should I wear with it... Probably need to order a pair of pale grey worsted pants too.


Beautiful. But I can not wait to see the photos of the jacket over.

post #10374 of 12526

Maccimus I like your blazer.  IMO if u go for a worsted don't go smooth for odd pants. Light-weight flannel or a rough worsted like Fresco or similar e.g. one of these is better, more versatile and just as  comfortable in the heat.  Smooth-worsted Odd trews are .. odd.

post #10375 of 12526
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post

Maccimus I like your blazer.  IMO if u go for a worsted don't go smooth for odd pants. Light-weight flannel or a rough worsted like Fresco or similar e.g. one of these is better, more versatile and just as  comfortable in the heat.  Smooth-worsted Odd trews are .. odd.
The fabric is like 280g and is a bit open weave (similar to fresco). I fear flannel or even the worsted flannel is a bit too hairy to it.
post #10376 of 12526
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maccimus View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post

Maccimus I like your blazer.  IMO if u go for a worsted don't go smooth for odd pants. Light-weight flannel or a rough worsted like Fresco or similar e.g. one of these is better, more versatile and just as  comfortable in the heat.  Smooth-worsted Odd trews are .. odd.
The fabric is like 280g and is a bit open weave (similar to fresco). I fear flannel or even the worsted flannel is a bit too hairy to it.

 

If you're concerned about textural contrast and want something lite why not consider linen or cotton.  A smooth worsted's in danger of looking suity. IMO  

post #10377 of 12526
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidLane View Post

I know this may not be the best place to ask, but can an interlining be added to the collar of a shirt without having any additional cloth? I had some shirts made, and apparently when I asked for a lightweight unfused liner, that translated to: no lining at all. cloud.gif

TIA,

DL-

You would be better off having replacement collars made.
post #10378 of 12526
Quote:
Originally Posted by Balfour View Post

Does anyone have any good recommendations for a mid-to-dark grey cloth for odd trousers.  Needs to be relatively durable and no more than mid-weight (to pair well with an 11 oz hopsack blazer in dark navy).  I was thinking 11 oz worsted flannel or twill.  Would be grateful for any suggestions (either from specific books for worsted flannel / twill or alternative options to consider).

There are two greys in the Scabal gabardine book that are perfect for trousers in that weight. They are not regular gabardines as they have a mottled appearance. I call them a doeskin gabardine. Really great for trousers. Will supply cloth numbers when I have the book with me.
post #10379 of 12526
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maccimus View Post

Last fitting for this jacket. HFC clearance fancy blazer fabric. I am now worrying about what should I wear with it... Probably need to order a pair of pale grey worsted pants too. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


[
IMG ALT=""]http://www.styleforum.net/content/type/61/id/1306691/width/350/height/700[/IMG]

Two things about the way this jacket is done. They may not have had enough cloth so they turned/reversed the lapel pattern and cut them in the opposite direction of the rest of the pieces. The light colored stripe is on the opposite side on the lapels as the other pieces of the jacket. The pocket pipes are cut on the bias and disrupts the flow of the stripe pattern. Patch pockets would have been an ideal opportunity for pattern matching. Don't want to diminish your appreciation of this jacket but the cutting should respect the cloth.

I always have a client pick trousers to wear with an odd jacket before he orders the jacket, even if he isn't buying them at that time. Helps to know how versatile the jacket will be.
post #10380 of 12526
Quote:
Originally Posted by P-K-L View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

If you're considering that, I'd look at shantung (raw silk). Very old school for a summer suit, and very distinctive. Might be somewhat tough to find these days though.

Any idea where to get some raw silk?
I saw one suit made from it recently and cannot stop thinking of it ever since...

Dupioni silk in the Drapers line. It's few colors in their linen book.
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