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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 679

post #10171 of 10756
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post

It wouldn't be bad worn as an odd jacket though would it?

I think it would be pretty bad.

The scale of the pattern is just too small. So you're left with something that isn't quite a plan navy blazer but that doesn't have nearly enough of a pattern to look like a proper odd jacket.

I imagine that even people who don't notice these things would notice that you were trying to pass a suit jacket off as a blazer.
post #10172 of 10756
^ Agreed. You would need a much bolder pattern to make it work IMO.
post #10173 of 10756

Some cloth from Huddersfield. Bronze, a light grey olive green that's not at all olive on this photo, some sage green nailhead below and at the top H&S's nimbus slate blue (cotton/cashmere). The nimbus slate blue is cool, a mix between stone and blue. It will probably be turned into a DB coat with a waistcoat since I have a pair of H&S cotton pants that a) shrunk a lot and b) lost even more colour.
post #10174 of 10756
Getting ready to order a suit from the Smith's mohair book. In swatch form at least, I really like one of the 60% mohair fabrics in a dark petrol blue but I'm worried about how shiny it will be in the large expanses of a garment. As a swatch, it has a slight but noticeable sheen. I'm wondering if anyone has anything made up from one of these 60% mohair fabrics and can comment on just how shiny they are. There's a similar color in 30% mohair but it's a smoother texture and less variegated color.
post #10175 of 10756
I have a shirt jacket in Sobiati linen can I wash this in a washing machine? Or does it need to be dry cleaned?
post #10176 of 10756
Sorry, shitty pictures, taken with iphone.

With all the discussions about British and Italian fabrics, I'm little embarrassed to put these up.

These are from Japanese mills and printers. We buy stock fabrics and sell them to our customers. Small fabric lengths our customers don't want is sent to our office. If like any we can take it, if not after a while it gets donated.

Kept this aside but not sure if I will do anything with it. The prints I was thinking of giving them to my mom.

I this set of fabrics to my tailor few weeks ago. I'll be going again later this month for work so I should be able to post finished pieces. The green wool was too short for a jacket. My tailor said I can make pants out of them but I couldn't imagine myself wearing green pants so I told him to sell it for me.
post #10177 of 10756
Originally Posted by Odd I/O View Post

I have a shirt jacket in Sobiati linen can I wash this in a washing machine? Or does it need to be dry cleaned?
I have my linen guayaberas hand washed and they come out fine. Couldn't tell you what mill Charvet source the linen from. Keep in mind that dark colors tend to bleed and lighten somewhat when laundered.
post #10178 of 10756

Hi Pink,


You mean this?


or this?

post #10179 of 10756
post #10180 of 10756
Posting this here since some people said it was OK to use this as a sort of general bespoke tailoring chat thread. FT article on a tax clampdown that's supposed to affect traveling tailors. Full article behind the spoiler tag.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Huntsman, a Savile Row tailor renowned for its luxury bespoke suits, has made trips across the Atlantic for decades to size up the power brokers of Wall Street. But following a US customs crackdown, this tradition – like the company’s revenues – is facing a snip.

Tougher oversight by US tax authorities, who are using technology to track what enters the country and ensure that appropriate duties get paid – is making expensive suits even pricier.

“Some people have stopped ordering completely,” said Patrick Murphy, head cutter at Huntsman. “If we tell them it’s now a £9,000 suit and £2,000 is going to the government, they just don’t want to pay that.”

Some tailors have kept deliveries to wealthy US bankers, lawyers and consultants at arms length, using couriers who got the items in with little or no duty and few questions asked. Suits were often shipped in sealed trunks inside large containers full of other goods.

“Customs have realised that the tailors have been getting away with murder for years,” said Leonard Logsdail, a Savile Row-trained tailor in New York.

“My understanding is that the import duties process was digitalised, and has become more efficient in terms of the way product is processed.” said Anda Rowland, vice-chairman of Anderson & Sheppard, a suitmaker that garners 40 per cent of its business from the US.

According to Huntsman’s Mr Murphy, bespoke pieces that were taxed at a 4 per cent rate now face charges of more than 20 per cent.

One well-dressed banker and patron of Savile Row added: “Whatever method those guys were using before, many were getting suits in with next to no duty.”

US Customs and Border Protection said that all goods valued over $2,500 “would be assessed at a rate of duty ranging from 7.5 per cent to 27.3 per cent, depending on the fabric make-up of the garment.”

Since agents stepped up scrutiny in late 2012, the tailors have redoubled efforts to comply.

“We all went into each others’ shops and asked what are we going to do? The full impact of this is only just starting to be felt,” said Mr Murphy. He added couriers were now demanding information such as social security numbers from clients after personal service – without sharing personal details.

“The people we deal with just don’t want to do that.”

Many American Savile Row aficionados are now buying their suits in London, getting UK tax refunds at Heathrow then declaring the suits upon arrival in the US.

Cheaper rivals have started reaping rewards from the duty crackdown . Steven Hitchcock of The Savile Row Tailor, serves US clients at the lower end of the tax threshold price point.

“I definitely think some Wall Street guys have started holding back – boycotting would be too strong – but we’ve definitely seen a rise in customers coming to my business where prices are slightly lower,” he said.

Italian menswear specialists are also offering cheaper off-the-rack wares at upmarket department store events to attract Wall Street’s most successful moneymakers, adding further pressure on the niche British tailoring trade.

“It doesn’t matter how wealthy you are – you’re going to think twice when spending $10,000 on a suit,” Mr Hitchcock said.
post #10181 of 10756
In my limited experience, this has already hit the larger firms, who were obvious targets. The off-row and obscure shops had more opportunity to fly under the radar.
post #10182 of 10756
^ This has been an issue for the past 2 years or so. A real pain to be honest, as it involves picking up the suit in London in order to get the VAT refund and skirt the US Customs charge (cue the iGent outrage...).

As dopey mentioned, smaller tailors just carry a client's completed suit with their personal luggage instead of packing it in a carnet like A&S, Poole etc.
post #10183 of 10756
Twenty percent is extortionate.
post #10184 of 10756
Soliciting interest for a private run of a large scale black and white glencheck (as initially proposed by @forex and dropped by me) in the 8-10oz range.
By soliciting interest, I mean I would like to know what people specifically want and don't want. Posting here is good for discussion (and encouraged) but please pm me as well as it is unlikely I will be able to keep track of posts since this thread can move along quickly.
post #10185 of 10756
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

Twenty percent is extortionate.

It's funny because any UK citizen living in London (like myself) has always had to pay 20% VAT on any Savile Row suit. So, for an arbitrary reason it was 20% cheaper for me to order a Anderson & Sheppard suit from NYC than from their actual shop in London. Bizarre world we live in. I'm glad they're clamping down, but I hope it doesn't hurt the Row.
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