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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread - Page 677

post #10141 of 12225

Does anyone have a picture of suits/material from the dugdale english town classics twills? http://www.dugdalebros.com/online-shop/bunch-134-english-and-town-classics/9457/

 

I emailed and they said that it's the closest thing they have to flannel, but I've seen a picture in this thread from it which while nice isn't quite as flannel-esque as I like, as I want it to be quite um soft and textured I guess, and distinctly different from worsted. Do you think I should look elsewhere?

post #10142 of 12225

It is full milled and quite '"fuzzy," so to speak. To the uninitiated it could be mistaken for flannel, because the of old-school density and non-lux loft is a world apart from the suitings of today. The twill in particular is very nice. Be warned that your peers may think it looks rustic and casual. Make sure you style it properly so that it looks like a dense suit and not a casual number...

 

It has a hand similar to non-luxury flannel of the same weight class.

 

Edit: see below, trying again


Edited by sprout2 - 5/6/14 at 12:48pm
post #10143 of 12225

I don't find it very fuzzy actually.  It has a pretty hard hand - does not feel like a woolen flannel IMO (even the hardest ones like Minnis, let alone the softer Italian ones).  If  Isolation wants soft, this is not it.

post #10144 of 12225
Quote:
Originally Posted by terrorsquad View Post

Cacciopolli cotton solaro



This is the brown I was referring to earlier. Really nice shade and I like it more than most of the linen shades I've seen.
post #10145 of 12225
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post
 

I don't find it very fuzzy actually.  It has a pretty hard hand - does not feel like a woolen flannel IMO (even the hardest ones like Minnis, let alone the softer Italian ones).  If  Isolation wants soft, this is not it.

 

I misspoke. It does not have the nap of a woolen flannel. But it is not hard finished like Lesser 13 oz. It has a "soft" structural integrity (?) that lacks the tight weave of a fine woven worsted. If that makes any sense. If he wants a soft feeling, no. Maybe I should say it has good tensile strength or rebound? If you put the Dugdale book on a table and push your hand into it, it has a dense give. In that sense, the "thickness" is like flannel. Hope I'm making sense.

post #10146 of 12225

I agree with this.  I just wanted to make sure Isolation doesn't jump in expecting a soft woolly flannel.  

post #10147 of 12225

gdl, do you have any suits from English & Town Classics?

Speaking of feeling, there are some smallish houndstooths in that book that could easily pass for sportcoats because of the unslick finish. A black & cream one, a navy & white one, and a beige one (bland). If you don't like bigger houndstooths, this is not a bad option.

post #10148 of 12225
Quote:
Originally Posted by lysandar View Post
 

 

Great stuff, I wish I had known about these places when I visited Rome last year. If you have any more recommendations for similar shops in Paris and/or Rome, I'd be grateful if you could share them.

 

Also, did you ever get an answer to your queries regarding Gorina? I noticed a fair number of Gorina bolts in Lafayette Saltiel here in Paris, but have been unable to unearth further details on the status of the firm.

 

Ahh pity that, I threw those pics up here as there doesn't seem to be much of a directory or travel guide on here.  Au Bonheur des Dames, 1-3 Rue Livingstone, at the Marché Saint-Pierre near the foot of Montmartre is great as well and has end of rolls for the French design houses from E12/m. 

 

Piccolo on Chiaia in Naples has the full assortment but also has a big stack of off-cuts or 'tagli' literally 'cuts' which are 2m for E25. 

 

I didn't get any bargains on this trip as to get the whacky patterns in linen you can only really get them in Esposito it seems plus I was drunk on sartorialism at that point.  Alberta will post overseas as well if you know your glove size and also do 'su misura'  if you post them a hand draft.

post #10149 of 12225

That linen check you posted is divine.

 

And that full-contact shopping must be extremely exhausting. At the end you must want to never look at a piece of fabric again and cloister yourself in a monastery for three months. That happens to me after abour 3 hours in SoHo New York (ghastly place), so I can't imagine a week and more of trundling fabric and spoils of war around. Hats off for your fortitude.

post #10150 of 12225
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post

That linen check you posted is divine.
That happens to me after abour 3 hours in SoHo New York (ghastly place),

Hey fuck you, man.
post #10151 of 12225

The natives are restless...

post #10152 of 12225

Thanks yeah, I think I'll look for some flannel separately, though the houndstooth does look pretty good for a sportsjacket so I might just get some of that.

post #10153 of 12225
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post
 

gdl, do you have any suits from English & Town Classics?

Speaking of feeling, there are some smallish houndstooths in that book that could easily pass for sportcoats because of the unslick finish. A black & cream one, a navy & white one, and a beige one (bland). If you don't like bigger houndstooths, this is not a bad option.

I don't have anything made up, just swatches.   The houndstooth are good but Minnis 0656 and Fox's versions are nicer (probably more expensive too)

post #10154 of 12225

Pic of the 0656? I don't like the ones I've seen from Fox. Something is wrong with the scale. Either too micro or too mega.

Marling & Evans' Naturals line seems ( on paper) to have some good ones but they are hard to communicate with. Hoping for an online store

post #10155 of 12225
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post
 

That linen check you posted is divine.

 

And that full-contact shopping must be extremely exhausting. At the end you must want to never look at a piece of fabric again and cloister yourself in a monastery for three months. That happens to me after abour 3 hours in SoHo New York (ghastly place), so I can't imagine a week and more of trundling fabric and spoils of war around. Hats off for your fortitude.

 

Ah cheers, it was hard to pass alright.  Esposito isn't too dear either, linen is E30/m and all their cottons are E25, if you were buying on a  visit from outside the EU you'd get your VAT back too.  You know I thought it would be a bit of trudge to get them all in but to be honest I'd have to say it was a blessed relief delight to get away from plodding around a ruin all day, or another flipping church.  Everyone I dealt with was a gent,  Patrizio Cappelli is top boy of menswear in my view, and Giorgio was a bit of craic too. 

 

Naples was great as well, unpretentious [or perhaps gritty for those of nervous disposition] cheap as chips, great food and my kind of place I'd definitely go back.   The two shirtmakers I visited got me measured and fitted despite the fact that there were only three working days that week due to the 1st of May.  I'll talk about them when I get the finished garment. 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post


Hey fuck you, man.

 

 

Awww you don't really mean that, do you now?

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