Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Spaghettimatt said:

Bummer. The Fox Sport collection is being discontinued. I was looking to commission a blazer in the FS27 dark navy hopsack, but that's out of stock. The FS26 midnight hopsack is a bit too dark, I think.

Anyone know of any alternative hopsacks in a similar four season weight of 320/350g; 11/12oz? I know of the heavier 415/430g Taylor & Lodge and Bateman Ogden options, but worry they're too heavy for spring/summer.

I haven't ruled out mock leno as an alternative but am looking for hopsack specifically...

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another bummer for you: since t&l is dead, your only option would be bateman ogden. it's perfect for spring, too hot for summer though. I'd still go for it

I'd suggest looking around at the italian options like drapers monte carlo (perfect for summer, maybe a tad too light for spring), however take a look at mock leno again, I really like dugdale's tad heavier version - their navy is quite difficult though

camez_ said:

another bummer for you: since t&l is dead, your only option would be bateman ogden. it's perfect for spring, too hot for summer though. I'd still go for it

I'd suggest looking around at the italian options like drapers monte carlo (perfect for summer, maybe a tad too light for spring), however take a look at mock leno again, I really like dugdale's tad heavier version - their navy is quite difficult though

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Thanks. I had heard T&L is dead. I wonder if they made for Fox and that's why the Fox Sport collection is dead.

I think it will come down to Bateman Apollo hopsack or a heavy mock leno (finmeresco, dugdale)... so I guess the question is whether I want to sacrifice the height of summer (Bateman hopsack) or depths of winter (heavy mock leno).

camez_ said:

another bummer for you: since t&l is dead, your only option would be bateman ogden. it's perfect for spring, too hot for summer though. I'd still go for it

I'd suggest looking around at the italian options like drapers monte carlo (perfect for summer, maybe a tad too light for spring), however take a look at mock leno again, I really like dugdale's tad heavier version - their navy is quite difficult though

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How does the Monte Carlo compare with the heavier mock Leno (eg. Finmeresco, or fresco books)

jonathanS said:

How does the Monte Carlo compare with the heavier mock Leno (eg. Finmeresco, or fresco books)

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way finer, not as sturdy. wouldn't opt for it outside of summer / warm days since it is quite formal

camez_ said:

another bummer for you: since t&l is dead, your only option would be bateman ogden. it's perfect for spring, too hot for summer though. I'd still go for it

I'd suggest looking around at the italian options like drapers monte carlo (perfect for summer, maybe a tad too light for spring), however take a look at mock leno again, I really like dugdale's tad heavier version - their navy is quite difficult though

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I would imagine that Fox would replace in kind with something else of a similar fabric quality, right? Its odd that there's such a gap in fabric offerings for a robust, midweight hopsack for blazers...

Spaghettimatt said:

Thanks. I had heard T&L is dead. I wonder if they made for Fox and that's why the Fox Sport collection is dead.

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This crossed my mind too...but I was under the impression that Fox makes their own cloth. @camez_ any insight?

I was just talking about a SR tailor about this today. Fox's product line has more or less tripled in the last few years. They have designed and specified all of that, but there's no way that they tripled the number of mills they own in Somerset. So just as Lesser, Smiths, et al, contract with mills, so will they. Your best protection is to see what the quality of the particular bunch is.

@tim_horton @WhereNext @ericgereghty

Thanks for the advice and framing! The weddings tend to be up to cocktail attire formality, which linen I think seems fine for? Let me know if you think differently. I don’t mind looking a bit disheveled, that’s kind of my vibe anyways. Nicest thing anyone’s said to me recently was my little cousin saying I look like Jason Momoa.

I do think Dove grey is a good idea generally, I think it’s just a meh color for my skin tone. Too cool.

Overall l, really helpful thought - I’m going to investigate the suggested wool linens and frescos, and I’m thinking I’ll pick one of those. Thanks all!

tim_horton said:

A suit in Smith’s Blue Riband recently arrived.

I LOVE this fabric. Holds a crease, is great for my internal thermometer, and the finish is fantastic. I prefer it to Premier Cru by far.

My suit is in dark grey. I have a strong preference for grey over navy but there are some nice navies in Blue Riband so I was thinking of going with one of those next… but I see Blue Riband has been pulled from the Harrison’s website. So maybe it’s gone for good.

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I just had a more or less final fitting with a replacement blazer from this book today. If I'd known how much I would have liked it, I would have figured out some kind of suit to make from it. There isn't much of that quality in that weight. And fabulous color, too!