Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

kid1002 · 2024-04-24T19:40:28-0700

camez_ said:
forget about it. it was part of the four season vbc bunch (asian market), you won't find it in europe in any cut length bunch anymore

this is discontinued

I see. That's unfortuante. Thank you.

shippingman · 2024-04-24T20:11:11-0700

In a dilemma between a dark navy in a mid-weight twill or a heavier high twist. For the twills I am considering H Lesser LGB (more muted) or Minnis QZ2 (more shine), while also very intrigued by the two darkest shades of navy 4ply by Finmeresco (370/390gr). Already have Drapers 4 ply in dark blue, and very satisfied with that fabric.

For a suit that you'd use in the office twice a week and also does not look out of place at evening dinners, anything I should rule out? If anyone has experience with darker navies from Finmeresco, would appreciate your input!

kid1002 · 2024-04-24T22:10:29-0700

shippingman said:
In a dilemma between a dark navy in a mid-weight twill or a heavier high twist. For the twills I am considering H Lesser LGB (more muted) or Minnis QZ2 (more shine), while also very intrigued by the two darkest shades of navy 4ply by Finmeresco (370/390gr). Already have Drapers 4 ply in dark blue, and very satisfied with that fabric.

For a suit that you'd use in the office twice a week and also does not look out of place at evening dinners, anything I should rule out? If anyone has experience with darker navies from Finmeresco, would appreciate your input!

I'd go for the QZ2 or Lesser and skip the high twists.

jonathanS · 2024-04-24T23:48:09-0700

shippingman said:
In a dilemma between a dark navy in a mid-weight twill or a heavier high twist. For the twills I am considering H Lesser LGB (more muted) or Minnis QZ2 (more shine), while also very intrigued by the two darkest shades of navy 4ply by Finmeresco (370/390gr). Already have Drapers 4 ply in dark blue, and very satisfied with that fabric.

For a suit that you'd use in the office twice a week and also does not look out of place at evening dinners, anything I should rule out? If anyone has experience with darker navies from Finmeresco, would appreciate your input!

What are you looking for? What is your climate like?

L.deJong · 2024-04-24T23:56:20-0700

Standeven Heritage twist is also possible it's a bit heavier at 395gms/14oz but a true workhorse,
I have chosen this charcoal twill:

And inspired by a suit made by prologue, it's grey but with some blue in it that makes for an interesting if a bit loud cloth:

Standeven Heritage charcoal fancy stripe.jpeg

Standeven Heritage Prologue suit close up.jpeg

solid_olid · 2024-04-25T06:04:58-0700

Gentleman - could use some advice on fabric for a suit I’ll be ordering shortly via NMWA/Carrara (great experience with them so far). Please help with my crippling indecision 😁

Suit will be used for warm/hot weather summer weddings as I’m hitting “that age” where these come non stop. Since I run hot and sweaty naturally, breathability is a priority, although I don’t totally want to compromise on weight/drape (I’m gonna sweat regardless). I’d like to do something more interesting/fun than basic navy/greg, and prefer warm tone fabrics - I am thinking a tobacco brown is the move. A bit of texture/pattern is great as well, though I would like to keep it reasonably dressy. Not too concerned with durability since I’m only going to wear this maybe 3-4 times a year.

Given the above preferences, I’ve been looking mostly at fresco/high-twist wool and linens. In the shop I was looking at Italian linens, but after a bit more research I’d probably go for Irish - this is currently the thing I’m most likely to choose. Happy to hear suggestions on specific colors/patterns, but I think I will be happy with that classic cigar/tobacco brown, and hopefully I can find a fabric they have with a bit of yellow undertone mixed in with the red.

Fresco I could see myself choosing given its performance benefits and ability to dress up a little better, but I haven’t found much in the way of colors that suit my taste. Nothing as warm tone, fun, and summery as the linen - the best things seem to be beiges and medium dark browns. Looked mostly at ascot drapers 2/4 ply and minnis.

Fox air did some have more fun and texture fabrics, but none hit quite the right balance - some small checks that I’m skeptical would work for a suit, beautifully textured olive and reddish brown colors that were linen esque in skin, but just not quite what I was looking for.

Any wise words of wisdom for me? I was also thinking about looking for some wool-linen blends, which seem to not be commonly used for suiting, but seems to fit my criteria well? Appreciate the advice.

Pictures:
1) fox air tight check
2) fox air textured red brown and olive
3/4) minnis fresco
5) portofino linen plain weave
6/7) portofino linen textured weaves.

tim_horton · 2024-04-25T06:19:47-0700

Out of those I’d go with the tan fresco. My reasoning is that this is a suit for weddings and I don’t want the wrinkles of linen in a wedding suit. I also think chocolate and dark brown look better in linen than they do in high twist or worsted wool.

I know you said you’re not looking at standard blues and greys but a nice light dove grey would also look great for a wedding suit and wouldn’t look like just another business suit, if you’re open to it.

ppk · 2024-04-25T06:30:12-0700

L.deJong said:
Standeven Heritage twist is also possible it's a bit heavier at 395gms/14oz but a true workhorse,
I have chosen this charcoal twill: View attachment 2173659 View attachment 2173657

And inspired by a suit made by prologue, it's grey but with some blue in it that makes for an interesting if a bit loud cloth:
View attachment 2173661
View attachment 2173665 View attachment 2173663

That's a lovely fabric! Is it this one?

camez_ · 2024-04-25T06:37:37-0700

ppk said:
That's a lovely fabric! Is it this one?

no, its 15008

100% Merino Wool Luxury Suit Cloth - Woven in England 15008

Stock supported,cut lengths supplied for tailoring. Standeven 1885 the tailor's mill,weaving Heritage Twist merino wool business suit cloth in British Mill

www.standevenfabrics.co.uk

WhereNext · 2024-04-25T08:09:23-0700

solid_olid said:
Gentleman - could use some advice on fabric for a suit I’ll be ordering shortly via NMWA/Carrara (great experience with them so far). Please help with my crippling indecision 😁

Suit will be used for warm/hot weather summer weddings as I’m hitting “that age” where these come non stop. Since I run hot and sweaty naturally, breathability is a priority, although I don’t totally want to compromise on weight/drape (I’m gonna sweat regardless). I’d like to do something more interesting/fun than basic navy/greg, and prefer warm tone fabrics - I am thinking a tobacco brown is the move. A bit of texture/pattern is great as well, though I would like to keep it reasonably dressy. Not too concerned with durability since I’m only going to wear this maybe 3-4 times a year.

Given the above preferences, I’ve been looking mostly at fresco/high-twist wool and linens. In the shop I was looking at Italian linens, but after a bit more research I’d probably go for Irish - this is currently the thing I’m most likely to choose. Happy to hear suggestions on specific colors/patterns, but I think I will be happy with that classic cigar/tobacco brown, and hopefully I can find a fabric they have with a bit of yellow undertone mixed in with the red.

Fresco I could see myself choosing given its performance benefits and ability to dress up a little better, but I haven’t found much in the way of colors that suit my taste. Nothing as warm tone, fun, and summery as the linen - the best things seem to be beiges and medium dark browns. Looked mostly at ascot drapers 2/4 ply and minnis.

Fox air did some have more fun and texture fabrics, but none hit quite the right balance - some small checks that I’m skeptical would work for a suit, beautifully textured olive and reddish brown colors that were linen esque in skin, but just not quite what I was looking for.

Any wise words of wisdom for me? I was also thinking about looking for some wool-linen blends, which seem to not be commonly used for suiting, but seems to fit my criteria well? Appreciate the advice.

Pictures:
1) fox air tight check
2) fox air textured red brown and olive
3/4) minnis fresco
5) portofino linen plain weave
6/7) portofino linen textured weaves.

It depends a bit on how formal/informal these weddings are as far as whether linen or wool is better for you. Obviously, linen will almost always read as more casual, but that may be a good thing depending on the weddings in your calendar. I looked at a ton of brown fabrics for a hot weather suit recently, and I think Fox does a particularly good job with browns. In addition to the Fox Air, you may want to look at City Fox (10-11 ounces but relatively open weave) and Golden Fox (8-9 ounces, so a bit lighter). Both of those books have some interesting browns, including some brown patterns that are subtle and classic (PoW, glen check, puppy tooth) if you’re so inclined.

solid_olid · 2024-04-25T08:34:18-0700

WhereNext said:
It depends a bit on how formal/informal these weddings are as far as whether linen or wool is better for you. Obviously, linen will almost always read as more casual, but that may be a good thing depending on the weddings in your calendar. I looked at a ton of brown fabrics for a hot weather suit recently, and I think Fox does a particularly good job with browns. In addition to the Fox Air, you may want to look at City Fox (10-11 ounces but relatively open weave) and Golden Fox (8-9 ounces, so a bit lighter). Both of those books have some interesting browns, including some brown patterns that are subtle and classic (PoW, glen check, puppy tooth) if you’re so inclined.

Great tip, there is some awesome stuff here. Particularly like a tan PoW check and cigar wool-linen.

ericgereghty · 2024-04-25T09:34:26-0700

solid_olid said:
Great tip, there is some awesome stuff here. Particularly like a tan PoW check and cigar wool-linen.

How comfortable are you looking sloppy? That's a key factor to consider. As well, maybe split the baby and go wool/linen? The below to are not remotely for me, but sound like the cloths could be up your alley, particularly the tobacco shade. Cannot speak to the performance levels of the Dormeuil cloth at all, but I have to imagine it's plenty nice, and enough weight to provide drape.

Linen/Wool Model 3B Suit - The Armoury

As well, I'd +1 @tim_horton and the pale/dove grey suggestion. Will definitely not look like a "business" suit. But, obviously, it's grey lol.

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