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Suit pictures - Page 2

post #16 of 28
For what it's worth, I disagree with Mr. Granota almost entirely.
post #17 of 28
Thread Starter 
Quote:
The pinstriped suit has a very closed front. I would prefer to see it a bit more open. As it is, there's too much open at the top, not enough at the bottom.
Now that you mention it, I agree.  By "not enough at the bottom", I assume you mean more open front quarters?
Quote:
I personally like my breast pockets higher, but this is entirely up to you.
Interesting point.  I'll have to consider that.  Do you think it is elongating or do you prefer it for another reason? Thanks for your comments, dan
post #18 of 28
Thread Starter 
Quote:
For what it's worth, I disagree with Mr. Granota almost entirely.
I disagreed with a few of his points as well, but I find it very educational to hear other's informed opinions.  I found Mr. Granota's posts on jacket shoulders on the suit silhouettes topic very informative.  It seems to me that shoulder line is an abstract concept and quite subject to personal taste. Thanks for your comments. dan
post #19 of 28
>How do you think the pockets should be placed? I agree with Alias about breast pocket: higher. Other Pockets:it is difficult to position them on a one button jacket. I think the distance from the only button should be more; the button (waist) should be higher but this is my taste. On the other jacket,I will position the pockets just in line with the first (low) button; this is a tailoring rule I see respected in many style (english, italian, american). The golden rule for button distance is (In Italy): at least 4,3 inches (11 cm.). >What portion of the suit comprises the sleevehead?  How >much shorter do you think it should be? The attachment of the sleeves from the shoulder to the armpit. It should be closer to your armpit. >What kind of shoulder line would you prefer? Indeed it is a matter of taste: I prefer higher on neck around your shirt,going down to the shoulder. >Not at all.  Thanks for the feedback.  How else, after all, do >we learn? Actually I see many defects in my suits also, and I plan to adjust for the next. Is the pleasure of the bespoke, isnt' it?
post #20 of 28
Quote:
For what it's worth, I disagree with Mr. Granota almost entirely.
It's ok, really. Just share my experience. Can you detail why you disagree? I think this may help dah328 also.
post #21 of 28
Yeah, more open front quarters. The NH suit looks really, really closed. Maybe it's just your posture, but it's something to keep in mind for your next one. I find that higher breast pockets lend some length to a jacket, which is important when it's cut on the short side like mine always are.
post #22 of 28
Might I chime in. The fit of the suits is quite good in my eyes although I have a few things to mention. These are my views and tastes. 1) The Chan tuxedo.... a) The breast pocket needs to be moved up at around 1/2". I have the same problem with my Chan suit b) From the picture, it seems that you have wide shoulders. I would narrow the shoulders a bit, say around 1/4" to 3/8" on each side. A thin layer of padding to raise it up would also help. c) Seeming that you have stronger, pronounced features, ie. broad shoulders and a head to complement them, I would lean for a slightly narrower lapel with the peaks angled a bit more vertically to offset the stocky build while raising the gorge by 1/8" to 1/4" to elongate the torso. d) Giona is absolutely right about the sleevehead. A bit higher would do wonders. 2) The Noble House suit... a) The notch on the lapels looks to be at the right place. b) From the pic, it appears the top button was meant to be buttoned. c) Giona is right again. The pockets needs to be moved up a bit. d) If those pockets are moved, then the breast pocket needs to be moved up a bit to balance everything out. e) The bottom needs to be flared out more to accommodate the top open portion. Sorry, I don't know the technical name for this. Alas, that is the beauty and problem with bespoke. The first one will always not have the exact portions correct. Some of these are also a problem with my Chan suit. Good RTW suits have this down. The proportions are well thought out so everything looks right to the eye. With bespoke, it is a work in progress since every suit is not cut to the same ratios like a a good RTW is. Hope this helps. Bravo to you posting pics.
post #23 of 28
Thread Starter 
Quote:
>What portion of the suit comprises the sleevehead?  How >much shorter do you think it should be? The attachment of the sleeves from the shoulder to the armpit. It should be closer to your armpit.
Your description of the sleevehead sounds like the armhole to me.  If you're saying the sleevehead is too long, do you mean the circumference of the armhole should be smaller?  Or have I misunderstood what the sleevehead is? dan
post #24 of 28
Quote:
Quote:
(Giona Granata @ 26 Oct. 2004, 11:11) >What portion of the suit comprises the sleevehead?  How >much shorter do you think it should be? The attachment of the sleeves from the shoulder to the armpit. It should be closer to your armpit.
Your description of the sleevehead sounds like the armhole to me.  If you're saying the sleevehead is too long, do you mean the circumference of the armhole should be smaller?  Or have I misunderstood what the sleevehead is? dan
Is it more likely I misunderstand what "sleevehead" means, my technical english is not the best. Anyway you got the point I was making. I generally agree with HitMan009. Also, I have to say that the fit, generally speaking, seems to be good, and also the back it is worth to mention that looks very good.
post #25 of 28
Mr Granata: Any sources in London or Umbria for suiting cloth? Is Cumberland (Milano) still in business?
post #26 of 28
While certainly defering to GG on matters of fit here, I do think that both suits look great. I've had several made in HK. I like A Man Hin Cheong myself. But the dinner jacket esp. is smashing. Bravo for going with midnight-blue. I also, prefer, unlike GG, the machine-made buttonhole. For some reason, no doubt aesthetic, I think it just looks better and cleaner. And I have seen very well done button-holes by hand, so I don't think it a matter of my ignorance necessarily. I couldn't tell from pic., but you went silk rather than grosgrain for lapel? I prefer grosgrain. Was it your decision of that of your tailor, to go with the silk? Anyway, cheerio. And do try Sam's for odd-trousers.
post #27 of 28
Thread Starter 
Quote:
While certainly defering to GG on matters of fit here, I do think that both suits look great.  I've had several made in HK.  I like A Man Hin Cheong myself.  But the dinner jacket esp. is smashing.  Bravo for going with midnight-blue.
Thank you.  Ever since I read Flusser's book in college, I've wanted a bespoke dinner jacket in midnight blue with a peak lapel.  The lapels are satin which was nominally my choice.  I've considered having them replaced with grosgrain, but I think that would be quite expensive. dan
post #28 of 28
Correct for gos-grain. I'm sorry I do not know sources in London or Umbria, just north-Italy. I do not know Cumberland.
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