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post #16 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cravate_Noire View Post
As we hit formal wear again... what about a boiled front detachable collar shirt worn with a soft detachable turndown collar with a shawl lapel DJ or do you think that the ultra stiff shirt shall be reserved for ultra stiff collars+more formal evening wear (meaning peak lapel DJ or evening Tailcoat?).
The latter. A stiff front and soft collar seems like a mutt to me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gumercindo View Post
Is a matching (dark gem like onyx) set most appropriate in this case? Or, can I get away with dark studs and some silver cufflinks?

Is this too much silver?

Not a fan of those to be honest. Onyx is the most common choice. I prefer plain gold (though admittedly mine are not real gold).
post #17 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
Definitely no high button vest. If you can't find a low one, and hate cummerbunds, just skip it and leave your jacket buttoned.


Much prefer pique myself.


Probably won't work because A) Shirtmakers don't make vests and B) the cloth really should match the DJ cloth, and you will have no way of getting more. An alternative is a white pique white tie odd vest, but this really should be worn with a wing collar shirt.


Don't like 'em myself, I like to show studs.

How great is the sin of a cummerbund with a peak lapel and a turndown collar shirt? Does it significantly lower the formality of the tux? Additionally, I have a set of inherited gold cufflinks and studs, but there are only three studs and I am not sure that my single button, single breast jacket will sufficiently cover the shirt. Thoughts?
post #18 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by okdc View Post
How great is the sin of a cummerbund with a peak lapel and a turndown collar shirt?

No sin at all. Perfectly correct.

Quote:
Additionally, I have a set of inherited gold cufflinks and studs, but there are only three studs and I am not sure that my single button, single breast jacket will sufficiently cover the shirt. Thoughts
Older formal shirts were made with fewer stud holes, hence vintage sets often did not have more than three studs. If your shirt takes four, and the coat or cummer covers that fourth, you can always use some random stud and keep it covered. Just try it on and see if it works.
post #19 of 27
Thank you, Manton. I seem to be getting it all put together and will hopefully post pictures before the big day.
post #20 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
Definitely no high button vest. If you can't find a low one, and hate cummerbunds, just skip it and leave your jacket buttoned.

Yup.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

Probably won't work because A) Shirtmakers don't make vests and B) the cloth really should match the DJ cloth, and you will have no way of getting more. An alternative is a white pique white tie odd vest, but this really should be worn with a wing collar shirt.

A third option-- getting a low-cut vest made from silk brocade, either black or colored. It breaks the rule of having black tie be a uniform, but when your jacket is cut properly, there's never too much of the vest showing. It's sort of like brightly-colored socks in this respect.
post #21 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by Concordia View Post
A third option-- getting a low-cut vest made from silk brocade, either black or colored. It breaks the rule of having black tie be a uniform, but when your jacket is cut properly, there's never too much of the vest showing. It's sort of like brightly-colored socks in this respect.

Yeah, and these you can get RTW at UK shopes like Favorbrooke. Not sure if they are available in the US, but you can find them online, I'll bet.
post #22 of 27
I have a dilemma. I strongly dislike wing collar shirts, but also strongly dislike cummerbunds. My DJ will be SB with peaks. Would it be totally inappropriate to wear a turndown collar with the white pique formal vest? Secondly, would it be less offensive to wear a black barathea vest rather than white pique? It would a silk barathea, and thus an odd vest (not matching the dinner suit).
post #23 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by polar-lemon View Post
I have a dilemma. I strongly dislike wing collar shirts, but also strongly dislike cummerbunds. My DJ will be SB with peaks. Would it be totally inappropriate to wear a turndown collar with the white pique formal vest? Secondly, would it be less offensive to wear a black barathea vest rather than white pique? It would a silk barathea, and thus an odd vest (not matching the dinner suit).
White tie (with white pique vest) would require a tailcoat. So the black vest is actually proper. Turndown collar is fine for black tie, imo. Are you talking about this vest? http://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCatP...=&sectionsize=
post #24 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by musicguy View Post
White tie (with white pique vest) would require a tailcoat. So the black vest is actually proper. Turndown collar is fine for black tie, imo.

Are you talking about this vest? http://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCatP...=&sectionsize=

Yes, that's it. I'd be wearing black tie--as mentioned above and elsewhere, it's correct to wear the white tie vest with black tie attire. My question is, how bad would it be to wear a turndown collar instead of wing with this combo- minor sin, or unforgivable trangression of good taste?
post #25 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by musicguy View Post
White tie (with white pique vest) would require a tailcoat. So the black vest is actually proper. Turndown collar is fine for black tie, imo.

Are you talking about this vest? http://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCatP...=&sectionsize=

Actually, black tie with wing collar and white pique vest is perfectly proper and has at times even been considered the most appropriate for more formal events.

Personally, as Manton notes earlier in the thread, I wouldn't wear the combo without a wing collar shirt. In fact, I have worn it, but only with a detachable wing collar.

From Black Tie Guide:
Quote:
White Waistcoat


While colored and patterned waistcoats inherently diminish the formality of the tuxedo, the white piqué full-dress waistcoat actually elevates it. This posh variation - best paired with a wing-collar shirt and peaked-lapel jacket - was common in the 1920s and 1930s and was prescribed by Emily Post for the most formal of black-tie occasions right up until the 1970s. Today it remains a stylish alternative for many dapper dressers. Full details can be found on the White Tie page.

http://www.blacktieguide.com/Classic...ternatives.htm

As for black vests, this one is better:
http://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCatP...=&sectionsize=
post #26 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark from Plano View Post
Actually, black tie with wing collar and white pique vest is perfectly proper and has at times even been considered the most appropriate for more formal events.

Personally, as Manton notes earlier in the thread, I wouldn't wear the combo without a wing collar shirt. In fact, I have worn it, but only with a detachable wing collar.

From Black Tie Guide:

http://www.blacktieguide.com/Classic...ternatives.htm

As for black vests, this one is better:
http://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCatP...=&sectionsize=

If that's the black low-cut backless vest (can't view link on phone), I have that one too. Most peoples' preference seems to be for wing collar with white vest; I'm trying to determine if it's more a matter of taste or if it's closer to a rule.
post #27 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
an SB DJ

You can always tell the people who say abbreviations out loud.

On the subject of cummerbunds, is a sash still legit? Cummerbund is basically the pre-tied bowtie of the sash world is it not?
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