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Barba Napoli shirts

post #1 of 31
Thread Starter 
Just like some comments about quality and fit of these shirts. Are the collar sizes true, do then run tight/ loose, use good quality cloth and workmanship etc. What are their comparable brands?
Thanks!
post #2 of 31
The collar sizes are true, fit is slim. Cloth and workmanship are both excellent. I would guess they are comparable to most other Neopolitan shirtmakers, but as I don't own any others I can't really comment. They are definately much better than Van Laak, Canali, Oxford, Burberry and Haines Bonner.

Regards
Rob
post #3 of 31
Are they better than Anna Matuozzo or Mazzarelli?
post #4 of 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by yachtie View Post
Just like some comments about quality and fit of these shirts. Are the collar sizes true, do then run tight/ loose, use good quality cloth and workmanship etc. What are their comparable brands?
Thanks!

Barba generally fits into three ranges...going from the least to the most hand-finishing are: black Barba tagged shirts, gold Barba tagged shirts, and then their Buonomassa line. The gold tagged Barbas are comparable to Borrelli, and I have found the quality control for construction to be more consistent than the Borrellis I have seen. Fabric quality in the Buonomassa line is comparable to Kiton...it seems to me that Riva is used, but I have only two samples. The black tagged Barba shirts often make no pretense of handfinishing of colar attachments or shoulders...such details are pretense, anyway, in RTW except that a spalla camica can be achieved at the shoulder this way.

In America, I think that one is more likely to run across slim-bodied versions of Barba shirts, compared to Borrelli, for the simple reason that Barba is not as widely distributed specifically for the U.S. I also feel the arms and armholes on Barbas are generally slimmer.

One thing I find across the Barba line is that the sleeves are shorter that Borrelli and Kiton. I am going to suggest this will produce a better fit for most without retailoring since I have found RTW Italian shirts will err on the longer side for sleeve lengths. If you have long arms, however, you might be better served if you must have this type of RTW Italian shirt to go with Borrelli or Kiton.

Overall, I find all these hand-finished Neapolitan-esque RTW shirts about the same: nice buttons, inconsistent sewing, sometimes nice execution of waterfall shoulders, fused collars and cuffs (unfortunately), and nice fabrics. In terms of construction quality, I find that all of these fall short of my gold standard for RTW shirts, Place Vendome-sourced Charvet.

- B
post #5 of 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by yachtie View Post
Just like some comments about quality and fit of these shirts. Are the collar sizes true, do then run tight/ loose, use good quality cloth and workmanship etc. What are their comparable brands? Thanks!
I have several and I am happy with them to date. I must go up 1/2 a collar size on Barba, the only brand that I must do this with. The sleeves tend to run long, depending on your height that may not be an issue but it can cause the fabric to billow when the cuff is reattached after shortening if care is not given. The first shirt had to redone and all since have come back from the tailor fine. The fabrics are very nice, the buttons actually fit through there holes (Borrelli humor there...sorry) and are a nice thickness too. I have stopped buying all other RTW shirts since I started to buy Barba. I hope that helps.
post #6 of 31
Barba (at least in Europe) also sells it shirts with extra long sleeves! Together with Finamore by far the slimmest fit, compared to Borrelli and Kiton that is. I do own shirts of all four brands. For regular fabric (not Sea Island) I prefer Finamore or Borrelli though, although gold label comes close.
post #7 of 31
Be careful with those Buonomassa shirts if you like to indulge in ice cream and french fries like moi. They have the tightest waist of any RTW shirt I've worn (Borrelli, Kiton, Barba, Isaia etc). You don't want to have to sit with a shirt where the two buttons at the stomach look like they are about to come exploding off

I agree with everything voxsartoria says, even though he is from Boston.
post #8 of 31
I now wear Barba almost exclusively. I find it to have the best shoulder shape of all the Italian makers I've tried (Borrelli Kiton, etc). The fit is still a loose at the waist for me, so I have my tailor trim the sides always.
post #9 of 31
Thread Starter 


So which barba label is this? Black?
post #10 of 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by yachtie View Post


So which barba label is this? Black?

Yes, black.
post #11 of 31
Thread Starter 
So $150 NWT is an okay deal for these?
post #12 of 31
I'm amused that the black label doesn't actually have a black label. How do you distinguish them then?
post #13 of 31
I've three different Barba labels. One as the above, one "black label" where the back ground is black as oppose to the whit back ground shown above, and one that actually says "Gold Label". There is minimal difference in retail price between the three.
post #14 of 31
I have a black label version that I am wearing right now.

Although it is slim in the chest area, I do not find it slim in the waist at all. Mine is pretty much cut straight down from the chest.

I find the armholes fit strangely on me. I have Jantzen shirts with high armholes that do not cause any problems. I even find the armhole area very hard to iron. Just an odd shape on mine I suppose. And they are hand-stitched.

The collar fits true to size. I wear a 15.5.

Beautiful material; nice sheen and weight. Nice buttons. Not a fan of the collar shape (okay open but not wearable with a tie, at least for me).
post #15 of 31
Quote:
(okay open but not wearable with a tie, at least for me).

You have to be a lover of really huuuuuge tie knots .
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