I guess this is where I need some help. Although I'm a lean athletic guy, I've been told by my menswear tailor and by many a sales associate that I have more 'ass' than the typical asian male. I'm unsure of how to achieve the best fit. If I try to wear jeans hanging off my hip, then the crotch area appears to 'hang' too much to the point where I feel as if it interferes with my gait and I start developing the penguin gangsta waddle. That being said, I've tried to wear jeans at my natural waist maybe .5 to an inch lower than where I wear my slacks/pants. When I do that, my ass gets in the way to the point where the waistband does not touch my skin all the way around if you can understand what I mean. The waistband of the jeans would lift off my skin around the back (not the front), since my ass would push the fabric of the jeans out. It looks 'wrong' like that to me. I often would be forced to have a tailor take in that very part so that the entire waistband touches my skin. So, I guess the question is... have I been wearing jeans wrong? Do I need a different type of fit? Would a guy with my problem be better off with full rise? Medium rise? Low rise? btw, I appreciate all of the advice you've given so far. You've been supremely helpful with my education or re-education in jeans (something I had thought I had known all about through all of my college years).
Thanks again for all of the clarifying answers. I guess the last question is: After purchasing a dior 19cm's and APC's, do I engage in this "hot soak" in order to shrink it before I hem? Or is this entirely unnecessary and I'm better off estimating the .75" to 1" of shrinkage that would occur when I hand them off to my tailor? Also is this the correct gameplan for awesome fitting/looking raw jeans? 1) Size down appropriate amount to take in account for raw denim stretch and vanity sizing. 2) Hot soak upon purchase with warm (boiling?) water 3) Air dry 4) Have it original hemmed by tailor 5) Wear the shit out of the jeans to achieve the stretching needed 6) Avoid washing at all costs until the 'fades' set in 7) When you start forcing people to avoid coming within a 6 feet radium of you due to the smell, cold wash jeans and air dry Do I have it down right? Also, is there theory on how the fading works and how washing jeans interferes/helps? edit: What type of store would carry those BSP's, Samurai's, etc that you recommended that would be accessible in the SoCal area? Barneys Co-op?