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I have a jean...(The Ultimate Jean Thread For Beginners) - ask questions here. - Page 568

post #8506 of 21424
Yeah it was a little ridiculous. Outside of SF 28's are usually as small as things get so I can't imagine people who thought to order true to size.
post #8507 of 21424
Dear SF,

Very sorry for the question that has been answered hundreds of times already, but I could not find it in a search.

I want to jump on the selvedge bandwagon, but am a little skeptical of the advantages per $ spent. I really love the look, fit and feel of my 501s, but have now realized most of that is because of the raw denim. So, now I'm wondering if raw selvedge denim is truly the cat's meow.

Can I get good selvedge jeans for under $100? Maybe the secondary market is my best bet, but I'm wary about used jeans with other people's fade marks.
post #8508 of 21424
Any opinions on the Levis Capital E'= 'Hesher' denim ?
Just curious about quality and fit...
post #8509 of 21424
Quote:
Originally Posted by phxlawstudent View Post
Dear SF, Very sorry for the question that has been answered hundreds of times already, but I could not find it in a search. I want to jump on the selvedge bandwagon, but am a little skeptical of the advantages per $ spent. I really love the look, fit and feel of my 501s, but have now realized most of that is because of the raw denim. So, now I'm wondering if raw selvedge denim is truly the cat's meow. Can I get good selvedge jeans for under $100? Maybe the secondary market is my best bet, but I'm wary about used jeans with other people's fade marks.
Anything under 100 is going to be equal in nearly all ways to any other mass-produced Chinese/Indian denim. Entry level is about 150 with APC, 3Sixteen, etc. Good jeans start at 250
post #8510 of 21424
you gots got any idea for good jeans that fit slightly snuggier than the 514s but looser than the skinny 511s
post #8511 of 21424
nvm
post #8512 of 21424
Quote:
Originally Posted by c00kz View Post
Yeah it was a little ridiculous. Outside of SF 28's are usually as small as things get so I can't imagine people who thought to order true to size.
Vanity sizing should be outlawed. Although, post wash and machine dry I got them to 30s. And yes, Jean Shop does stretch as much as ficking APC. Like a vengance. Stetchiest jeans I've ever owned. All three I had to sell because of that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by phxlawstudent View Post
Dear SF, So, now I'm wondering if raw selvedge denim is truly the cat's meow. Can I get good selvedge jeans for under $100? Maybe the secondary market is my best bet, but I'm wary about used jeans with other people's fade marks.
Hellz yeah, and if you want to dip your toe into the selvage (but not 'raw') wading pool, you can try the respectable offerings from jcrew and the Gap 1969 stuff. The stuff I tried on isn't bad for the price. Otherwise, take a leap of faith like the man you are and do as Kit suggests. APC, 3Sixteen, and I've been on a kick about Simon Miller, Dunderdon, Tellason and the new EP jeans from Epaulet which are all sub-$200. But at that level, you're better off spending fifty to eighty more and getting crazy good stuff
Quote:
Originally Posted by dunelly View Post
you gots got any idea for good jeans that fit slightly snuggier than the 514s but looser than the skinny 511s
See above, but my suggestions for a good slim workhorse denim would be Skull 5507 and Warehouse 'Dubbleworks' 660, both are slimmer and better fitting than the 514 cut but totally epic jeans. For slightly more sophistication, you can try Momotaros, Somets (if you like a low rise) and almost any other 'slim straight' jean on SE or BiG.
post #8513 of 21424
what does the initial soak of unsanfornized denim do to the jeans, why is it done?
what is sanfornization and why don't they need to be soaked when new?
thanks guys!
post #8514 of 21424
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim_Whatley View Post
what does the initial soak of unsanfornized denim do to the jeans, why is it done?
what is sanfornization and why don't they need to be soaked when new?
thanks guys!


The super-short version is;

Sanforization is a process of pre-shrinking denim before it's made into a garment. So it shrinks very little and is still in a 'raw' state. There's much I don't know about this process though.

Unsanfoized denim, also known commonly as 'STF', or 'shrink-to-fit' is really where you find the premium artisanal denim with the most highly regarded characteristics. This is because the denim is in a state where it's real character isn't hidden by processing. Shrink rates vary drasitcally depending on the denim.

Most denim you'll find is either pre-washed (to shrink it), or sanforized before market. Very few people want to take on the challenge of selling unshrunk raw denim. This is why Self Edge and Blue in Green are held in such a high regard here, both for their knowledge of obscure and amazing denim, and their patience needed to sell stf.

It's advisable to soak or wash both sanforized and un-sanforized jeans because all raw denim will shrink some. With stf, it can be as much as 2.5" waist and 3" leg/inseam, and .5" in the leg.

It's worth trying a pair of Levis 501 shrink to fit, which is the identical scenario as Japanese selvage stf. If you like the experience, and want to try the slightly more challenging aspects of Japanese stf, it's incredibly rewarding.
post #8515 of 21424
^If you have the money then buy whatever you want. Since this is the beginner's thread though I suggest you not bother with "premium artisinal qualities." Buy some jeans that fit and are in within your price range. If you do buy soomething expensive get one wash, it fades almost the same and won't stretch much. Don't get STF as lots of stuff can go wrong with shrinking it then stretching it out.
post #8516 of 21424
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deluks917 View Post
^If you have the money then buy whatever you want. Since this is the beginner's thread though I suggest you not bother with "premium artisinal qualities." Buy some jeans that fit and are in within your price range. If you do buy soomething expensive get one wash, it fades almost the same and won't stretch much. Don't get STF as lots of stuff can go wrong with shrinking it then stretching it out.

Well thanks for clearing that up, Deluks. I was hoping the boy would eventualy come to learn that buying whatever he wants is still optional.

And thanks too for clearing up that beginners have no sense of refinement and only came here to be told to buy some Levis. It's best that the n00bs see stf as the scary thing it is. Saves the good shit for me.
post #8517 of 21424
^Why would you recomend someone who has limited cash and experience with the brands to buy STF expensive jeans. They are hard to size right. I think its worth actually trying jeans on in person at first and there are basically two stores that stock those brands. So my actual advice to buy whatever you like that you can actually try on in person. Lotds of pwople have gotten pretty bad fits from very SF-aproved brands.
post #8518 of 21424
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deluks917 View Post
^Why would you recomend someone who has limited cash and experience with the brands to buy STF expensive jeans.

They are hard to size right. I think its worth actually trying jeans on in person at first and there are basically two stores that stock those brands. So my actual advice to buy whatever you like that you can actually try on in person. Lotds of pwople have gotten pretty bad fits from very SF-aproved brands.

1. If they come here asking, I wouldn't be performing my due diligence to set limits for them based on their intitial assumption of what they can afford or are willing to spend. I'd prefer to open their eyes to everything available, if I can help.

2. Shoulda said so in your first post, mate. That's a very good point.

I've bought almost all my jeans without trying them on. It's a learning curve. There was once a point where I thought spending $300 for jeans was absurd.

I'm only trying to discuss the pros and cons of the options out there, not actually tell anyone what to do (unless it will be a costly error).
post #8519 of 21424
I wear Levi 514 30x30 jeans and was looking to buy more when I came across this raw denim thing. I've been searching around this forum and the internet, have learned a bunch and now want Nudie Slim Jim Dry Japan jeans... but have some questions.

My Levi 514's measure like this:

Waist: 16" (maybe 1/8 bigger)
Inseam: 30"
Rise: 9.5"
Knee: 8.5"
Opening: 8"


These fit pretty much exactly how I want them. I wouldn't mind a slightly slimmer look, but I like these measurements.

I wear my Levi 514's just below those "V" hip/pelvic lines... roughly where you'd probably put your hands on your hips and right above where my leg bends. I dislike the sagging ass look, so my pants always sag towards the front more than the back.

I measured the rough area my pants fall... it's about 33". And here I thought I was a 30" waist. Though, I'm thinner above where I wear my jeans, but I assume the measurement of my "true waist" is where my pants fall when wearing them... and that is what matters, right?

Now, what would I want to get in Slim Jims? I've heard everything from size down 2 from your true waist size, to getting the same size as other jeans, to sizing up 1 from your Levi 514s.

I just don't what is right here. I assume 30 or 31, but just don't wanna go wrong here.

Additionally, I've heard they stretch a bit, but have heard varying things there so not sure...

Lastly, I definitely don't want my jeans to be too short. The 30" is nearly perfect, so don't want them shrinking more than an inch when washed, but I hear I can stretch back... plus 32" will be too long anyways.

So, what size? Help me please!
post #8520 of 21424
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay687 View Post
My Levi 514's measure like this: Waist: 16" (maybe 1/8 bigger) Inseam: 30" Rise: 9.5" Knee: 8.5" Opening: 8" So, what size? Help me please!
Fiest, don't go by tagged waist size. Also, I wouldn't really go by your actual hip measurement, since jeans will ride all over the place, fit is determined a lot by top block snugness and rise, and your real fitted (measured) size of jeans may be smaller than the waist dimension you took. I also measure ~33, and I wear actual 30 and 31w. Measure a snug but well-fitting pair of pants for a more accurate dimension. Since your worn jeans are a 32 waist, I'd say consider a 30 or 31 in most jeans. I don't know Nudie sizing, but make sure to account for stretch on any jeans (i.e. - downsize).
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