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I have a jean...(The Ultimate Jean Thread For Beginners) - ask questions here. - Page 544

post #8146 of 20698
I hear a lot of praise for levis (a lot for the price) and I was wondering, what sets them apart from other cheaper jeans? Quality? Fit? Are they really better than all the other cheap jeans or is it just that they make a decent pair of skinny jeans?
post #8147 of 20698
My 501s are a little bit 'blown out' (slight ballooning) at the knee, but it isnt time yet for a wash. Anything I can do? Besides buy a new pair with a smaller inseam since this was my first ever pair and they are coming along really nice. thanks
post #8148 of 20698
Quote:
Originally Posted by mlyngard View Post
1) No they're not. The 005 and 008 are different cuts. 005 is very slim with a snug top-block. 008 is more of a slim straight and a bit looser. Leg opening is wider for 008. Denim: 005 is super slubby and very dark. 008 is a lighter Ai natral indigo color, and smoother (also lighter weight denim). 007 looks to be the same cut as the 005, but overdye. Both 005 and 008 are awesome jeans.

2) That's an excellent way to do it, and I've found the dims for the PBJ one-wash are fairly accurate to what the raws will shrink to. Also recommend verifying those dimensions when you order. BiG will assist that way.

Oh well, sounds like what I need is the 008 then, but what I'm after is going to be closer to the color of the 005, which sounds like it would be too tight in the top block. Would it be possible to make a comparison to APC NS in how the crotch/hip/butt area fits to the 005?

I've also been looking through some of Self Edge's site, but, again, it's impossible to know how the top block area fits. The Sugar Cane 2009 looks like it has the measurements I'm after, but I guess I would be better off e-mailing them, unless anyone has any more suggestions.
post #8149 of 20698
Quote:
Originally Posted by mlyngard View Post
Hmm, I'd debate that, as a current owner the 005 and having sent back the 008 because it was so damn different I was shocked. Thigh fits were significantly different on me too. Ordered in same size, post-soak, my 005s had a 7.75 leg opening, the 008s had a 8.5. Other dimensions had a less severe difference, but enough. I could see how 005 might have been used as a 'base' pattern, but Levis were used as a 'base' pattern for pretty much all the jeans we're wearing. They're all nicely slubby though ;-)
In my experience (and that of many on sufu) there really are only the 003, 004, 005, and 011 cuts, the rest being variations with different denim. I've tried on 005, 007, and 010s (003 isn't my kind of a cut).
Quote:
Originally Posted by ivan k View Post
Oh well, sounds like what I need is the 008 then, but what I'm after is going to be closer to the color of the 005, which sounds like it would be too tight in the top block. Would it be possible to make a comparison to APC NS in how the crotch/hip/butt area fits to the 005? I've also been looking through some of Self Edge's site, but, again, it's impossible to know how the top block area fits. The Sugar Cane 2009 looks like it has the measurements I'm after, but I guess I would be better off e-mailing them, unless anyone has any more suggestions.
If you want the looser fit you should switch to the 003 cut (003, 009, 006) and your darker choices within that would be the 003 (standard PBJ denim) and 009 (003 cut of the 007 denim, indigo warp/weft)
post #8150 of 20698
Quote:
Originally Posted by mlyngard View Post
Was just wondering... Review on top block fit, rise vs. 5010, leg cut pleeze. Fit pics too.

If you like those, please check out the Warehouse 660s. I'm having the same reaction to them that you are to the 5507 (less the hip-beating). I'll get some fit pics up myself this wknd.

Here's some pics, both of the denim and the fit.



Fit pics, this is the first day of wearing with no soak:


Probably going to take a bit for them to dry though.
post #8151 of 20698
Quote:
Originally Posted by KitAkira View Post
And that's why you research before dropping $300 on a pair of jeans.... The most shrinkage will occur if you do a boiling soak (pour boiling water on them and let them sit in the tub until the water cools or go all out and boil the jeans in a pot of water) and then throw them in the dryer on high. After doing this though, you will find it harder to sell so beware, not sure how much shrink you'll actually get (and they're likely to stretch back at least a bit)
I did a fair bit of research. Spent a solid 4-5 hours on google in the two days before the purchase, and likely close to 8 hours total in the week preparping to buy them. It's actually how I found this forum.

Thing is, all the advice I found -- dozens of topics -- said to go about 2 sizes too big. So I did.

But I now realize that likely every one of those discussions were for the lot 2001s and 2001s that are Made in Japan.

Evisu only sells Made in Macau jeans online now. Heritage is Made in Macau, specifically. Evisu rep finally replied to my emails: he said that MiJ are basically just in-store now [unless of course you find someone else who buys and re-sells them, like Blue In Green).

So, though I found a lot of advice saying to go 2 sizes larger, I never noticed any notes saying that it only applied to certain Evisu jeans. No mention of different tagging methods for different Evisu jeans. Just the same basic rule, so I applied it :P

It failed. It's not a big deal. I got another pair of No13 Heritage 200s for cheap. They were $300 earlier this year, but they put them on sale at $129 so I snagged them. Funny thing is, a week later, the sale price was increased to $199. Still Made in Macau Heritage but they're a cool 'loud' Evisu jean. And I've been emailing with a guy in New York at BiG about a pair of genuine Made in Japan 2000s, so I think I'll invest with those as my every-day Evisu.


The 0001 cut No1 Specials may just have to be a loss. Put them on eBay a couple times at $150 but no luck yet. I still may keep them. My 200s measure 17, maybe 16.75, across the waist and fit nice (tag size 30), where as my 0001s are about 17.5 right now. So, the waist really isn't that much bigger.

It's more that they are slightly big in the waist PLUS they're a super baggy cut. They expand out much more than the 200s (a more relaxed cut). If I could get a tiny bit more shrinkage, they'd likely be OK for a casual loose jean. And I may always expand in my waist a bit more too (from the gym... my skinny ass and skinny abdomen are filling out a bit haha).

So I may be able to salvage them for myself instead of selling 'em for $150/taking a $150 loss on them. They're a pretty cool jean. Love the pink/purple gull on them. They go amazing with a white/pink tshirt I have hehehe


And at the end of the day, having a lot of fun learning all these brands. Especially Evisu. I've worn a few pairs of their shoes for a long time, but I'm somewhat new to their jeans. Almost never see them on the west coast here in Canada.... (everyone here is about 501s with Chucks... extremely so, or maybe Versace and APC (especially the Russian students, they love those with Y3s) surprisingly, most I've seen them are on African university students. Now and again on guys from Taipei, too, but they're far bigger fans of BAPE and XLarge.
post #8152 of 20698
BTW, I was just going through all my jeans an hour ago reminding myself on measurements, and I came across a pair of Levis. They're 501s and I got them for $5 at Winners like five or six years ago I think. But they say irregular on the inside. Typically that means the 'pattern' wasn't following properly, I believe. Any way to figure out what's different? I think there was a number beside the irregular stamp. No idea if they are decent or not. They're black... incredibly heavy and thick.
post #8153 of 20698
Quote:
Originally Posted by adidasaj View Post
I did a fair bit of research. Spent a solid 4-5 hours on google in the two days before the purchase, and likely close to 8 hours total in the week preparping to buy them. It's actually how I found this forum. Thing is, all the advice I found -- dozens of topics -- said to go about 2 sizes too big. So I did. But I now realize that likely every one of those discussions were for the lot 2001s and 2001s that are Made in Japan. Evisu only sells Made in Macau jeans online now. Heritage is Made in Macau, specifically. Evisu rep finally replied to my emails: he said that MiJ are basically just in-store now [unless of course you find someone else who buys and re-sells them, like Blue In Green). So, though I found a lot of advice saying to go 2 sizes larger, I never noticed any notes saying that it only applied to certain Evisu jeans. No mention of different tagging methods for different Evisu jeans. Just the same basic rule, so I applied it :P It failed. It's not a big deal. I got another pair of No13 Heritage 200s for cheap. They were $300 earlier this year, but they put them on sale at $129 so I snagged them. Funny thing is, a week later, the sale price was increased to $199. Still Made in Macau Heritage but they're a cool 'loud' Evisu jean. And I've been emailing with a guy in New York at BiG about a pair of genuine Made in Japan 2000s, so I think I'll invest with those as my every-day Evisu. The 0001 cut No1 Specials may just have to be a loss. Put them on eBay a couple times at $150 but no luck yet. I still may keep them. My 200s measure 17, maybe 16.75, across the waist and fit nice (tag size 30), where as my 0001s are about 17.5 right now. So, the waist really isn't that much bigger. It's more that they are slightly big in the waist PLUS they're a super baggy cut. They expand out much more than the 200s (a more relaxed cut). If I could get a tiny bit more shrinkage, they'd likely be OK for a casual loose jean. And I may always expand in my waist a bit more too (from the gym... my skinny ass and skinny abdomen are filling out a bit haha). So I may be able to salvage them for myself instead of selling 'em for $150/taking a $150 loss on them. They're a pretty cool jean. Love the pink/purple gull on them. They go amazing with a white/pink tshirt I have hehehe And at the end of the day, having a lot of fun learning all these brands. Especially Evisu. I've worn a few pairs of their shoes for a long time, but I'm somewhat new to their jeans. Almost never see them on the west coast here in Canada.... (everyone here is about 501s with Chucks... extremely so, or maybe Versace and APC (especially the Russian students, they love those with Y3s) surprisingly, most I've seen them are on African university students. Now and again on guys from Taipei, too, but they're far bigger fans of BAPE and XLarge.
Evisu Japan (the line whose only US carrier is BiG) /= Evisu International (the far inferior jeans found everywhere). BiG doesn't buy and resell jeans, they're a store that gets exclusive rights to many brands (for instance, BiG will be the only Samurai source in the US for the foreseeable future).
post #8154 of 20698
Hey Guys,

I'm looking for a new pair of jeans... I'd like a slim, dressy kind of look that is just going to show just the slightest signs of wear. I was thinking of buying some APC New Standards or Nudie Slim Jims, washing them once and then just start wearing them regularly. Also, I like white dress shirts with my jeans and don't want to get too much indigo on them. Is raw denim even right for me? Then, I'm rellay intrigued by the idea of having my *own* pair of jeans

I'm pretty skinny in the waist (28-29 usually) but do a lot of running, so most "skinny" jeans fit me like tights. Don't want that!

About the sizing: I read to size down Slim Jim by 1 and New Standards by 2, but what is that going to do to the legs?
post #8155 of 20698
Quote:
Originally Posted by Babachus View Post
Hey Guys, I'm looking for a new pair of jeans... I'd like a slim, dressy kind of look that is just going to show just the slightest signs of wear. I was thinking of buying some APC New Standards or Nudie Slim Jims, washing them once and then just start wearing them regularly. Also, I like white dress shirts with my jeans and don't want to get too much indigo on them. Is raw denim even right for me? Then, I'm rellay intrigued by the idea of having my *own* pair of jeans I'm pretty skinny in the waist (28-29 usually) but do a lot of running, so most "skinny" jeans fit me like tights. Don't want that! About the sizing: I read to size down Slim Jim by 1 and New Standards by 2, but what is that going to do to the legs?
If you want a pair of jeans that will remain suspended in a period of fading, get a pair of pre-washed, raw denim won't stop. A number of the SF-approved brands do washes that are 50million times better than what you're going to find in a department store (KMW comes to mind, there are others) but they'll run you the price of or sometimes more than the price of artisanal raw denim. As long as the dye isn't trash (like Levi's 501 STF, for instance) the indigo won't transfer much, and since indigo is highly water soluble, it washes out easily anyway (I wear white with my jeans all the time and the only time there was noticeable color transfer was when I was bored and rubbed my sweater on my rain-soaked jeans to see if it would transfer). I'd say go with raw jeans, they're fun and as you said, they're "yours." A slim-straight fit will probably be what you're looking for (KMW 1980, PBJ 003, etc.)
post #8156 of 20698
Quote:
Originally Posted by adidasaj View Post
I did a fair bit of research.



The 0001 cut No1 Specials may just have to be a loss. Put them on eBay a couple times at $150 but no luck yet. I still may keep them. My 200s measure 17, maybe 16.75, across the waist and fit nice (tag size 30), where as my 0001s are about 17.5 right now. So, the waist really isn't that much bigger.

It's more that they are slightly big in the waist PLUS they're a super baggy cut.

So I may be able to salvage them for myself instead of selling 'em for $150/taking a $150 loss on them.

And at the end of the day, having a lot of fun learning all these brands. .

Yeah, it's a bummer - I know how much research you said you did for those. But don't try and salvage the selvage. If it's too big now, no extra shrinking will save them.
The MIJ Lot 1s are incredible, and don't feel in any way like a hyped-brand price. Worth every penny. The MIJ lot 1s have a very defined repro cut which I love. Very 40's 501 but with all the right tweaks. Get those. I love the history of Evisu, and their dedication.

Have you considered selling here and on Superfuture? I think it'll be a much more educated and condensed audience. With patience, I've sold almost everything I've posted here. EBay is for when I'm desperate, and I hate that drill.

Quote:
Originally Posted by adidasaj View Post

They're 501s and I got them for $5 at Winners like five or six years ago I think.

But they say irregular on the inside. Typically that means the 'pattern' wasn't following properly, I believe.

'Irregular' can mean that the jeans didn't pass inspection for any number of reasons, from a rivet off center to a button slightly too low, or stitching that isn't totally straight. Rarely means they're badly made, just can't be sold as Prime Grade.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Babachus View Post
Hey Guys,

I'm looking for a new pair of jeans... I'd like a slim, dressy kind of look that is just going to show just the slightest signs of wear

Like Kit said. Nothing better than earning a pair from raw.
You can look around for jeans that are known to be 'hard faders'. I've personally found that smooth, sanforized denim with a tight weave and lighter weight (~14oz or less) will make a better 'dressy' jean than many of the slubbier denims. KMW, Rag & Bone, APC, Somet, Jean Shop are all jeans I liked for that.
post #8157 of 20698
Quote:
Originally Posted by aeglus View Post
Fit pics, this is the first day of wearing with no soak:


Probably going to take a bit for them to dry though.

Damn those look good Agelus. Looks like the right solution to all your problems. From what I can tell, you'll get good shrink in all the necessary places on those (inseam, leg opening). Not loving the taper below the knee right now, but I'm sure a shrink then some stretch in the thigh will take care of that. That and once the denim settles and softens up, it'll probably drape so much better below the knee. My 660s looked the same when new, and now the taper is much more elegant with only two weeks wear.

You look like much less of a thug there too.
post #8158 of 20698
Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmernate View Post
My 501s are a little bit 'blown out' (slight ballooning) at the knee, but it isnt time yet for a wash. Anything I can do? Besides buy a new pair with a smaller inseam since this was my first ever pair and they are coming along really nice.

thanks

post #8159 of 20698
Thread Starter 
Nope.
post #8160 of 20698
Quote:
Originally Posted by KitAkira View Post
Evisu Japan (the line whose only US carrier is BiG) /= Evisu International (the far inferior jeans found everywhere). BiG doesn't buy and resell jeans, they're a store that gets exclusive rights to many brands (for instance, BiG will be the only Samurai source in the US for the foreseeable future).
Cool. I thought BiG just ordered bulk and sold 'em. Didn't know it was an actual agreement.

So what's Evisu INT and Evisu JPN then in terms of relationship? Brand name and that's it? By International, you mean INT is a totally seperate entity? Or that Evisu HQ basically decided to make non-JPN brands (Heritage, Euro, Mainline, etc), or that a company outside of Evisu basically just acquired the rights to put Evisu branding on their own jeans.

I mean, the Evisu INT jeans still say they're made with denim and such from Japan... it's just that the actual construction is done in Macau. The way you said it makes it sound like they're almost totally unconnected and unrelated, outside of brand name.

Curious a lot on this Thanks.
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