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I have a jean...(The Ultimate Jean Thread For Beginners) - ask questions here. - Page 501

post #7501 of 20653
Hey guys. First post. I've been browsing this forum and various labels for a couple weeks looking to find out, for the first time, what it's like to find a pair of jeans which require absolutely no compromise in fit. I'm planning to make a trip to Self Edge in SF in a couple weekends or so. It'd be very helpful if I had all my measurements but I think I can get the idea across through words as well. I'm 5'6", ~130 lbs. Size 28w. I'm not skinny (~19% b.f.) but I have pretty small hips and overall frame. The majority of men's clothing labels don't fit me- putting on 28x30's of any respectable (not necessarily high-end) pants just make it seem like I through on my dad's pants. Kind of stuck in that older than teenage but not quite J.Crew-agish gap in terms of designers which is pretty limiting with quality or is hard to find stuff for. The jeans which have fitted me best were 28x30 slim straights with a mild low-rise. The prewashed Levi 514 is great (not talking about the tumbled/black rigid), but I don't like when it loses its elasticity after a couple wears. Obviously want something better in quality and much more under the radar. I'm not tall so I don't have a lot of length in leg to sacrifice. I want something with a really, really small top block. REALLY small, seriously, try me- I'm wearing a track jacket I bought from the Gap when I was in fourth grade, lol. But I don't want a skinny fit. I don't want a taper from the knee down, I want a very close fit on the hips, a very high crotch (low rise) and small seat, very close through the thigh and knee, and then a drop. Not a wide careless drop, but no more adherence to the close-fittingness. Just a regular slim-straight. I would really like a fit like this: In that the leg/thigh begins pretty high up, where it occurs anatomically. When I see pictures like this, I feel like the pants need to be pulled up and the crotch higher: In the Marcs, I like how small the pockets are as well. I could just buy those, it would seem logical, but y'know.. the models probably got near a foot in height on me, etc. Thanks for any help and suggestions. This in my proportions would be near perfect: http://www.ssense.com/men/product/le...go_jeans/15664 I think the problem is obviously men's jeans have a delayed crotch and the thigh doesn't go up as high as women's, but the extra space and room given for accommodation is way too much for me or people my size in gen
post #7502 of 20653
I second 646's.

Seafarers can be found in most military surplus. the rise is ridiculous but they are very slim through the seat and thigh to about the knee and then bell out and might be easier to come accross than 646's. All of the pockets are sewn on [no pocket bags] which makes putting a phone or keys in your pocket damn near impossible.

i have pulled myself out of my love of 70's gear, but seriously thrift stores and vintage shops can be very helpful in finding stuff.
post #7503 of 20653
Cookz APC new standard all the way. you can buy in smaller sizes and the top block is really tight. They have a slight taper. If you want something more expensive the Somet 003 has a very low rise, and a really nice straight legged fit. The skull 5010 has a tight top block but probably tapers more than you would like. If you are new to raw denim, APC is probably what you are looking for. You could even try the APC hipster that is straight legged but has a lower rise than the new standard.
post #7504 of 20653
Quote:
Originally Posted by c00kz View Post
Hey guys. First post. I've been browsing this forum and various labels for a couple weeks looking to find out, for the first time, what it's like to find a pair of jeans which require absolutely no compromise in fit. I'm planning to make a trip to Self Edge in SF in a couple weekends or so. It'd be very helpful if I had all my measurements but I think I can get the idea across through words as well. I'm 5'6", ~130 lbs. Size 28w. I'm not skinny (~19% b.f.) but I have pretty small hips and overall frame. The majority of men's clothing labels don't fit me- putting on 28x30's of any respectable (not necessarily high-end) pants just make it seem like I through on my dad's pants. Kind of stuck in that older than teenage but not quite J.Crew-agish gap in terms of designers which is pretty limiting with quality or is hard to find stuff for. The jeans which have fitted me best were 28x30 slim straights with a mild low-rise. The prewashed Levi 514 is great (not talking about the tumbled/black rigid), but I don't like when it loses its elasticity after a couple wears. Obviously want something better in quality and much more under the radar. I'm not tall so I don't have a lot of length in leg to sacrifice. I want something with a really, really small top block. REALLY small, seriously, try me- I'm wearing a track jacket I bought from the Gap when I was in fourth grade, lol. But I don't want a skinny fit. I don't want a taper from the knee down, I want a very close fit on the hips, a very high crotch (low rise) and small seat, very close through the thigh and knee, and then a drop. Not a wide careless drop, but no more adherence to the close-fittingness. Just a regular slim-straight. I would really like a fit like this: In that the leg/thigh begins pretty high up, where it occurs anatomically. When I see pictures like this, I feel like the pants need to be pulled up and the crotch higher: In the Marcs, I like how small the pockets are as well. I could just buy those, it would seem logical, but y'know.. the models probably got near a foot in height on me, etc. Thanks for any help and suggestions. This in my proportions would be near perfect: http://www.ssense.com/men/product/le...go_jeans/15664 I think the problem is obviously men's jeans have a delayed crotch and the thigh doesn't go up as high as women's, but the extra space and room given for accommodation is way too much for me or people my size in gen
The Crate Journals might work (the sz29 I'm selling has a 28" waist and a 9" front rise and 11" back, true straight leg from the knee down (7 7/8"))
post #7505 of 20653
Quote:
Originally Posted by trafficjam View Post
All great information, thanks a lot. I was going through the rolls of denim that the tailor had available and, rather than comparing it to what I was wearing, I really had no idea what to look for. My main issue was not knowing specifically what makes denim denim, and there is precious little available on a cursory search of the internet. Hell, sites that specialize in preimum denim just mention weight and loom and that's about it. I'll probably get a pair knocked out based on some measurements (probably copying my Uniqlos) and see what the result is.

I think denim is so intriguing because of that unknown factor and all those variables.

Thread count psi, thread guage in the warp and weft, tightness of weave, the length or shortness of the fibers (shorter = slubbier), the indigo dyes used, dyeing process and duration, and the final material weight all affect denim character. Denim shedding, or fading, is a catagory in itself.

All of those factors, plus the natural inclination of denim to be a very 'elastic' material, make it a totally unique fabric. Add to that the cut, and then each individual owner's lifetyle creating wear and stretch in different ways, and you have a whole lot of unknowns that lend each brand its own character.

All those material factors can be decided upon prior to looming, but I think the final results can still be surprising; the total result is more than the sum of it's parts. Much like a motorcycle has a character that's more than the sum of its parts, or wine made in the south of France will taste different from wine grown from the same grapes in Sonoma. The 'life' in it, so to speak.

To me, this is why premium denim is left mostly unadorned with decoration - it allows the denim speak for itself.

So the questions you asked really get to the heart of why denim junkies are so addicted. If the character of a denim could be quantified with charts, it stil wouldn't quantify all those unknowns that add together to make each pair unique. Even a chart telling you slubbiness or weight or thread count wont tell you much more than that.
post #7506 of 20653
Quote:
Originally Posted by c00kz View Post
Hey guys. First post.

I've been browsing this forum and various labels for a couple weeks looking to find out, for the first time, what it's like to find a pair of jeans which require absolutely no compromise in fit. I'm planning to make a trip to Self Edge in SF in a couple weekends or so.

It'd be very helpful if I had all my measurements but I think I can get the idea across through words as well.

I'm 5'6", ~130 lbs. Size 28w. I'm not skinny (~19% b.f.) but I have pretty small hips and overall frame.

The majority of men's clothing labels don't fit me- putting on 28x30's of any respectable (not necessarily high-end) pants just make it seem like I through on my dad's pants. Kind of stuck in that older than teenage but not quite J.Crew-agish gap in terms of designers which is pretty limiting with quality or is hard to find stuff for.

The jeans which have fitted me best were 28x30 slim straights with a mild low-rise. The prewashed Levi 514 is great (not talking about the tumbled/black rigid), but I don't like when it loses its elasticity after a couple wears. Obviously want something better in quality and much more under the radar.

I'm not tall so I don't have a lot of length in leg to sacrifice. I want something with a really, really small top block. REALLY small, seriously, try me- I'm wearing a track jacket I bought from the Gap when I was in fourth grade, lol. But I don't want a skinny fit. I don't want a taper from the knee down, I want a very close fit on the hips, a very high crotch (low rise) and small seat, very close through the thigh and knee, and then a drop. Not a wide careless drop, but no more adherence to the close-fittingness. Just a regular slim-straight.

I think the problem is obviously men's jeans have a delayed crotch and the thigh doesn't go up as high as women's, but the extra space and room given for accommodation is way too much for me or people my size in gen

My two cents based on the rise you want, top-block fit, taper, and leg opening:

Somet 003

Samurai S0610LX

Skull 0507 (maybe 5010)

Pure Blue Japan 005

Warehouse 'Dubbleworks' 660

Dry Bones Red-D

APC New Standard

I prefer the same type of fit. You'll want a rise between 10" and 8.5". Look for a leg opening no more than 8" and no less than 7.25" after shrink. Keep in mind with unsanforized (shrink-to-fit) jeans that you lose 1/2" in the rise and leg circumference when you soak/wash them.
post #7507 of 20653
Quote:
Originally Posted by crosswound View Post
what brands carry a slim dry selvedge bootcut. i'm talking subtle bootcut not straight leg. i was thinking about getting imperial kings but even when you remove the backpocket stitching the huge back pockets on a small frame i don't know how to put it in words.

I'm looking for the exact same thing.
post #7508 of 20653
I've looked at measurements of everything on BiG, SE and other sites and I'm still not sure what I might want. tried a few pairs on at BiG and still couldn't find what I was looking for (though this was before they restocked a bunch of things I wanted to try)

I'm looking for something with a fit similar to the KMW 1950. I don't want a higher rise, and wouldn't mind a lower rise. Revolve initially shipped me a 1980 instead of a 1950 in my size, and the leg was too tight, so I know I don't want something as slim as a 1980. something in between might be fine

what brand/cut similar to a 1950 would you guys recommend? s5000VX looks close, might need to go back to BiG to try them on. any other suggestions?
post #7509 of 20653
Thanks for the advice. I'd already been very interested in the Somet 003's. I'm going to be in NYC in December and I'd really like to have those in my hands and everything for the investment. I don't plan on buying more than one jean on that end of the spectrum for now so I want them to be without flaw. I've been browsing for APC NS on ebay and here off and on and I'm going to continue doing that for a bit because they seem to be moved around pretty frequently.. What do you guys think of the Marc by Marc Jacobs slim selvedge which were on Gilt a while back? I had a really hard time finding more info on them online. I'm learning a few more things which I ought be looking for, like a pretty short yoke, I like the pockets ending before they hit the top of my leg in the back.
post #7510 of 20653
Two questions: 1. Trying to figure out what size I'd take in Jean Shop Rockers. who mentioned sizing down a ton as they stretch. What's the convention on SF? 2. The Jean Shop Rockers are close to the exact cut I'd like. I want something that tapers a bit more in the leg with a slightly lower rise. Any candidates? For the record, I took a 31 in 5EP LDBs a while back; I could probably take a 30 now without a problem.
post #7511 of 20653
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by breakz View Post
Two questions: 1. Trying to figure out what size I'd take in Jean Shop Rockers. who mentioned sizing down a ton as they stretch. What's the convention on SF? 2. The Jean Shop Rockers are close to the exact cut I'd like. I want something that tapers a bit more in the leg with a slightly lower rise. Any candidates? For the record, I took a 31 in 5EP LDBs a while back; I could probably take a 30 now without a problem.
I have a 30 in the Skinny and I probably could have done 29 even though I wear a 32. There are measurements on the Farinelli's Thanksgiving sale thread. I'd say they stretch out 1-2" like everything else. Why don't you just go for the Skinnys?
post #7512 of 20653
Quote:
Originally Posted by whodini View Post
Why don't you just go for the Skinnys?

Thigh's too small on those for my waist size, my thigh's 21".

I'd take either a 28 (skinny fit) or 29 (normal fit) in the Rockers. Thanks for the pointer to the Farinelli's thread.
post #7513 of 20653
I'm looking for some straight cut black overdye jeans, I haven't seen to many of these. Any suggestions?
post #7514 of 20653
I need suggestions based on the following info. I have a really muscular frame, hence the small waist, big thighs. I have a pair of Flathead F380's size 32 but I want this pair to be more tapered at the knee down so it will look slick with sneakers.

I need:
  • Black Jeans
  • Waist size 31-32, 33 if unsanforized
  • 12"+ thigh
  • Low Rise
  • Less than 8" hem

Helpppp
post #7515 of 20653
Worth trying Uniqlo, I remember seeing black overdyed jeans there in most of their fits.
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