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I have a jean...(The Ultimate Jean Thread For Beginners) - ask questions here. - Page 202

post #3016 of 20698
Is chainstitching just for that added repro effect or is it actually better? I remember ringring said it was stronger because it uses more thread, but I've also heard that it doesn't really add anything to the jeans. I've got a pair of jeans (already) that need to be hemmed, but I'm not sure if it's worth the extra few bucks for chain stitching the new hem. I stack, so it's not like it'll even be visible.
post #3017 of 20698
Just had my APC's hemmed and the tailor decided to press them as well. Now it feels like they haven't been hemmed at all. Is this just due to the fact that I need to reset the stacks with wear?
post #3018 of 20698
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattn View Post
Is chainstitching just for that added repro effect or is it actually better? I remember ringring said it was stronger because it uses more thread, but I've also heard that it doesn't really add anything to the jeans. I've got a pair of jeans (already) that need to be hemmed, but I'm not sure if it's worth the extra few bucks for chain stitching the new hem. I stack, so it's not like it'll even be visible.
Chain stitching them hem causes roping, which is the main reason I prefer the chain stitched hems.
post #3019 of 20698
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnny d View Post
Just had my APC's hemmed and the tailor decided to press them as well. Now it feels like they haven't been hemmed at all. Is this just due to the fact that I need to reset the stacks with wear?

You regained length that had been taken up by the creases
post #3020 of 20698
Okay, so as I said a couple pages ago I'm looking for another pair of jeans, a straighter cut than the NS, with an inseam longer than 36". I've narrowed it down to a few choices and I'm looking for input. Here they are (not in any rank):
1) Flat Head F380
http://www.selfedge.com/shop/index.p...roducts_id=210
2) Skull 5507xx
http://www.selfedge.com/shop/index.p...roducts_id=203
3) Dry Bones Guitar Wolf Jet
http://www.selfedge.com/shop/index.p...roducts_id=250
4) Ande Whall Cougar
http://andewhall.bigcartel.com/product/cougar-xx-di

I'm leaning more towards the F380s and the Cougars than the other two pairs. So, I guess my questions are:
Are the F380s/the other two worth the price increase over the Cougars? Also, with the Cougars, what would be the advantage of getting unsanforized over sanforized?
Thanks.
post #3021 of 20698
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doctor Quack View Post
According to their website, BiG will hem your jeans for $30 if you did not buy them from their store.


I'm pretty sure that BiG is so backed up on chainstiching that i've heard you shouldn't even drop them off unless you want them to sit there for 6 months.
post #3022 of 20698
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stylish Pilot View Post
I'm pretty sure that BiG is so backed up on chainstiching that i've heard you shouldn't even drop them off unless you want them to sit there for 6 months.

in that case, is there another alternative in NYC for a chainstitch? And is there another competent store/tailor that can hem selvedge?
post #3023 of 20698
Quote:
Originally Posted by billionaireboy View Post
in that case, is there another alternative in NYC for a chainstitch? And is there another competent store/tailor that can hem selvedge?
yes - you can go to 45rpm which is right down the street from BIG. not sure how much they charge though. personally, i think there is a huge difference between the way a chainstitched hem looks (on SuFU, there's a thread about chainstitchers at BIG where ZK (he owns a shop in Taiwan) posts pics of some really incredible roping on his hems he's chainstitched). yes, it's got the vintage effect but the thread is also typically thicker and 100% cotton. plus, depending on the person who is doing the chainstitching (i believe gordon at BIG does this), he/she will adjust the tension of the machine to allow for maximum roping. roping is caused by the pull of the hemming machine in combination with the type of thread used. it basically causes the hem to look like, well, a piece of rope. so, a combination of the chainstitch and the 100% cotton thread (after a quick hot soak of the hems and blow dry) really makes for a beautiful hem versus a regular hem done at your local dry cleaner. is it worth $30? i can't decide that for you. for me, definitely. for others, maybe not.
post #3024 of 20698
Quote:
Originally Posted by thedamnscott View Post
Are the F380s/the other two worth the price increase over the Cougars? Also, with the Cougars, what would be the advantage of getting unsanforized over sanforized? Thanks.
I only own the Cougars so I can't compare it to the rest....but there isn't an advantage persay between unsanforized vs sanforized. Its just preference if you want stiffer denim that you will need to soak/wash to have it shrink to the correct size. The unsanforized will need to be sized up by 1" in the waist due to shrinkage. The sanforized will not shrink and is softer (initially) than the unsanforized. There is also a color difference. The unsanforized is darker initially but of course with fading it will get lighter. The sanforized starts off a little lighter since I think its a different fabric..... I'm not sure if the one picture on the website that compares the two, is an accurate representation of the color difference. Might need to email him to send more pictures.
post #3025 of 20698
What's the deal with the red strings on 5eps? It doesn't seem to be sewn on too tight. I already accidently pulled a few of them out a couple notches. Do you guys cut them off?
post #3026 of 20698
Will the initial hot soak result in all the shrinkage that is possible (i.e. a 2nd hot soak will not shrink them further)? If you cold soak, dry, and then hot soak will you get shrinkage? I've also seen suggestions for soaking inside out, what difference does that make? Thanks
post #3027 of 20698
My mother complains that my jeans stink, I havent worn them for a month any tips for getting rid of any potential smell? I can't smell anything and don't like or use febreeze. I aired them out but supposedly it didn't do anything.
post #3028 of 20698
Blog Marley, put them in a plastic bag and stick them in the freezer overnight. That kill a lot of the smell.
post #3029 of 20698
@NaTionS: The strings are for hanging the jeans on hooks. Evidently they're not of the best quality though.

@8bpc: In theory, yes. Hot soaks tend to be pretty potent. But there is nothing that tells the jean when to stop shrinking, so unless you put it in near-boiling water for hours it's not necessarily going to shrink to the fullest. In practice, a hot soak will probably shrink them damn near enough. IIRC soaking inside-out is to retain indigo.

So I went to my local Marshalls and was daudling in the jeans section and I nearly shit my pants. RRL straight leg dry selvedge. $50. Think of it: RRL, dry denim, in Marshalls. In the ghetto. However, they were 32 x 32; I could have stood for the waist, just waited out the stretching, but generally I take a 34 for non-dry denim and more for dry denim. That and I didn't have the clear-mindedness to check all of the tags to tell me if they were unsanforized (which would further complicate things). Anyway, I passed them up, especially since I didn't have $50 on me (lol poor).

So, two questions: can someone tell me if they know for certain if they're sanforized from the meager details I have provided? And is there any way to cope with short denim as such? They had a wider hem; I was considering tapering them at a tailor to "create" break when worn, should I get around to buying them.
post #3030 of 20698
Does a lower front rise mean tighter fit? Say you have two jeans that each measure a 35 waist. One has a front rise of 11.5 and the other has a front rise of 10.75. Will the one with the lower rise be tighter since they sit lower on your waist/hips?
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