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I have a jean...(The Ultimate Jean Thread For Beginners) - ask questions here. - Page 1373

post #20581 of 20885
Quote:
Originally Posted by oboy_oboy View Post

Inseam is not a measurement of taper or other fit elements, and is the single easiest thing to get tailored. Don't get too hung up on it.

But in a way it is a measurement of fit elements. If your jeans taper from a 10 inches at the knee to 7 at the hem, then having the inseam hemmed will change the look of the pants, giving them a wider appearance and a larger hem opening.

post #20582 of 20885
Quote:
Originally Posted by accordion View Post
 

When a 35" inseam gets tailored, the taper will wear off significantly though, I'm gonna cuff the jeans and 35" is just too much fabric. According to oi polloi and unionmade, the LVC 1967 505 has a 10.75" thigh for a size 34, which is about 2" narrower than my PBJ xx-011s that are already too tight around the thigh and knee. The measurements seem to indicate they're a super skinny fit.

I would check how they measure the thighs because that is insanely slim for a size 34, especially for a more full cut like the 505s. They must measure straight across the crotch, from seam to seam and not perpendicular to the waist band from the crotch from seam to end of fabric. Definitely inquire because that doesn't make any sense.

post #20583 of 20885
I'm assuming that's an exaggerated example, and yes, knee to hem measurements do tell a story.

But every decent brand accounts for taper, and typically the measurement from say ~32-33" to ~36" (assuming a stock jean has a ~36" inseam, which many outside of Japanese brands don't), remains consistent. So, hemming your jeans to the length you want isn't going to fuck up the taper.

Like I said, that is not the measurement you really need to focus on.
post #20584 of 20885
Quote:
Originally Posted by oboy_oboy View Post

I'm assuming that's an exaggerated example, and yes, knee to hem measurements do tell a story.

But every decent brand accounts for taper, and typically the measurement from say ~32-33" to ~36" (assuming a stock jean has a ~36" inseam, which many outside of Japanese brands don't), remains consistent. So, hemming your jeans to the length you want isn't going to fuck up the taper.

Like I said, that is not the measurement you really need to focus on.

Yes it was an exaggerated example just to make a valid point, but yes I agree that measurement shouldn't be at the forefront of ones focus when buying a pair of jeans. When one is concerned with tapers and inseams, I always suggest companies that don't make 36+ inseams, but to companies like RRL and Levi's, where the inseam is already shorter and the taper will be minimally affected by being hemmed.

post #20585 of 20885

I checked various ebay and online retail measurements of the 1967 505 and they all show a thigh measurement that's significantly narrower than the average slim tapered jean. For example this listing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/LEVIS-LVC-NEW-W-TAG-1967-505-0217-GUMBO-SELVEDGE-BIG-E-JEANS-SIZE-36X32-/231277804555?pt=US_CSA_MC_Jeans&hash=item35d93b3c0b

 

shows a 11 3/4" thigh for a size 36, which is quite slim. I'm looking for something with a 35-36" waist and a 13" or slightly narrower thigh. I take 34" for vanity sized jeans. Needs to be relaxed/loose tapered, not slim.

post #20586 of 20885
Any comments on this fit?







post #20587 of 20885
Quote:
Originally Posted by thenitwit View Post

Any comments on this fit?








A bit tight on the hips but they will stretch out

I think they look a pretty good fit!smile.gif
post #20588 of 20885
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hirsh View Post


A bit tight on the hips but they will stretch out

I think they look a pretty good fit!smile.gif

Alright, cool. Imma try the Wakeey fit Diesel do at some point, supposedly it's the same top block but has a slight taper so leg opening is like .5' slimmer which might get rid of the bagginess at the knee down. Worth looking into?

post #20589 of 20885
Quote:
Originally Posted by thenitwit View Post

Alright, cool. Imma try the Wakeey fit Diesel do at some point, supposedly it's the same top block but has a slight taper so leg opening is like .5' slimmer which might get rid of the bagginess at the knee down. Worth looking into?

I would size up!

Lots of a Diesel jeans are cut to be worn super tight, and you suit a more classic fit

Go one or two sizes for the most flattering fit:)
post #20590 of 20885
But if the Larkee above are fine...and the top block is the same, why would I size up so much? They'll then end up like the Gant chinos I sent you...where they completely sag and have enough for another person in the seat...

I'm also not sure to what extent sizing up so much is going to do. The 504s I bought which are a terrible cut tbh now reflecting, when I sit down completely slide down in a 34 waist. I know tailors can adjust a waistband but after an inch or two, it's going to completely throw the fit off and I'll be back to square one, even more out if pocket and frustrated :/
post #20591 of 20885
These are their straight fit, not a slim etc.



I have sized up, taken straight cuts and tried god knows many brands. I do not honestly believe the above are that bad and if I get a top block the same with a slight taper below the knee then even better.

As it stands I'm already like £350 down from buying those chinos and jeans a few months back so I'm not looking to waste my cash again etc.

As it is, i don't even know how a tailor is going to bring the waist in so they aren't always sliding down when I sit. I tried on levis 504 with my biggest and smallest belts and they still slide off, research on Google and threads on here are basically sure that you can't really alter jeans past an inch before the seat and such is ruined. I don't really fancy buying parachute pants or jeans I can't have altered at the waist as it's surely just asking for things to go wrong?...

Even an inch seems a problem. Darts tighten the butt, which won't be good for me.
post #20592 of 20885
Quote:
Originally Posted by thenitwit View Post

These are their straight fit, not a slim etc.



I have sized up, taken straight cuts and tried god knows many brands. I do not honestly believe the above are that bad and if I get a top block the same with a slight taper below the knee then even better.

As it stands I'm already like £350 down from buying those chinos and jeans a few months back so I'm not looking to waste my cash again etc.

As it is, i don't even know how a tailor is going to bring the waist in so they aren't always sliding down when I sit. I tried on levis 504 with my biggest and smallest belts and they still slide off, research on Google and threads on here are basically sure that you can't really alter jeans past an inch before the seat and such is ruined. I don't really fancy buying parachute pants or jeans I can't have altered at the waist as it's surely just asking for things to go wrong?...

Even an inch seems a problem. Darts tighten the butt, which won't be good for me.

The waist sliding down may be due to them not fitting properly in the waist, but it may also be the rear rise being too low. You really need to stop spending all that cash and go get your measurements taken. Once you get your measurements taken, you can do some online research instead of having to go out and try on a thousand different pairs of pants (god I hate trying stuff on in stores, I always take them home and return if they don't fit, I don't know how you do it). Once you have your measurements you have a foundation as to what you need to be looking for. Spending all this money on off the rack pants that are made to fit a wide variety of body types is obviously not doing you any good and is just causing unnecessary stress and money. Get your measurements, know what your ideal inseam is, know what your ideal rise is, know your true waist, your knees, your calfs, KNOW THE SIZE OF YOUR THIGHS (one of, if not, the most important measurement, because thighs will give/stretch very little, if anything at all), and then when all of this information has been accumulated and documented on something you will never lose, go online and research brands and fits. Your tailor may not alter jeans, but he sure as hell will be able to tell you what is the best style for your body type. With a type of fit now known, the research process will be far less time consuming and costly. If you find a pair of jeans that you can buy somewhere by you then great, if not you can order them and most sites have free returns anyway, or you can at least easily find a coupon code online for free returns. That is my 2 cents. Your doing so much work, when you really don't need to be. 

 

Edit: And I know you're in the market for Chinos too. I suggest this. Reread the text above.

post #20593 of 20885
Quote:
Originally Posted by accordion View Post
 

I checked various ebay and online retail measurements of the 1967 505 and they all show a thigh measurement that's significantly narrower than the average slim tapered jean. For example this listing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/LEVIS-LVC-NEW-W-TAG-1967-505-0217-GUMBO-SELVEDGE-BIG-E-JEANS-SIZE-36X32-/231277804555?pt=US_CSA_MC_Jeans&hash=item35d93b3c0b

 

shows a 11 3/4" thigh for a size 36, which is quite slim. I'm looking for something with a 35-36" waist and a 13" or slightly narrower thigh. I take 34" for vanity sized jeans. Needs to be relaxed/loose tapered, not slim.

Hows the search going? I don't know if these have been suggested already, but the Flat Head 3012 - Straight Tapered jean maybe absolutely perfect for you. I would definitely check them out.

post #20594 of 20885
Quote:
Originally Posted by thenitwit View Post

But if the Larkee above are fine...and the top block is the same, why would I size up so much? They'll then end up like the Gant chinos I sent you...where they completely sag and have enough for another person in the seat...

I'm also not sure to what extent sizing up so much is going to do. The 504s I bought which are a terrible cut tbh now reflecting, when I sit down completely slide down in a 34 waist. I know tailors can adjust a waistband but after an inch or two, it's going to completely throw the fit off and I'll be back to square one, even more out if pocket and frustrated :/

Sizing up on jeans isn't always the best bet unless you can pull off the size with a belt. Too much sizing up leads to bunching around the belt, which is a horrible look and as a wiser man than I once said "no matter how nice the garment may be, if it fits like shit, it looks like shit." If you need to size up that much for a fit, its not the right fit. Don't size up 2 sizes to try and pull off a look that can most likely be found in another brand of denim. 

post #20595 of 20885
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jompso View Post
 

Hows the search going? I don't know if these have been suggested already, but the Flat Head 3012 - Straight Tapered jean maybe absolutely perfect for you. I would definitely check them out.

 

I'm looking for something with this look:

 

 

They're the Universal Works slim jeans, I think I'm just gonna eat the conversion rate and get them. The flatheads are too long and I'm not looking for anything that stacks.


Edited by accordion - 7/17/14 at 8:10pm
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