I have a jean...(The Ultimate Jean Thread For Beginners) - ask questions here. - Page 1237

can anyone recommend a jean that has a fit somewhere between the apc new standard and the rescue? thanks!
 

perhaps a nudies grim tim?  i played around with both and I really enjoyed my grim tims until the crotch just exploded 

 

can anyone recommend me some heavy denim (preferably japanese) that's under 300?  I'm tired of crotch blow-outs.  i've been looking at the iron heart devil's fit but it's a bit out of my price range, but i really like the cut.  anybody?

^ grim tims are a lot skinnier than new standards. Try N&F slim guy or weird guy

I have a hemming question....

 

I just got the 3sixteen SL-120x shadow selvage. Love the denim (I gave them a little writeup in the 3sixteen thread).  I need to get them hemmed bc I am only 5'-8" and these things have a huge inseam.  I'm rocking a big double cuff right now to try to get a feeling for the proper length.  Normally I do a 30" inseam which gives a nice full break...on these I'm thinking of doing 32" or 33" so I get a little stacking or can cuff if i ever want to.  I know I'll loose a little length as the honeycombs set in and also when they finally get washed.  

 

What inseam length do you guys around 5'-8" normally go with?  

I kind of new to raw denim, so I've got a few questions.

I'm looking for a tapered fit, similar to the Levi's 508 or 520.

What can you guys recommend me in the price range 50$ - 200$.

 

Only problem is: I live in Europe.

Jmaud, I would wear the jeans for a little bit first trying to form the combs. Bend your legs a lot or something to speed it up that way they will form and take up what ever amount of length. But I would think 33 would be good. I'm 5'6 and normally wear 30 length which doesn't have a clean break and on my N&F wg's I hemmed to a 32 for a little stacking and I'm still able to do a double cuff if I'd like.

 

Also try and see if anyone can give you any info on the amount they may shrink too before you choose what length to hem. But I guess it wouldn't really matter since they're going to be hemmed longer than what you normally wear. Still something to consider tho!

Posted this in the thrift thread, but thought I would consult the experts. I thrifted some Evisu. Made in Italy and buckle back. Can anyone tell me what I have? 

 

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

When Evisu was first licensed for overseas production, the clothes were assembled in Italy although I believe the denim was still made in Japan. The denim on those models is pretty good quality; it's a shame that they didn't chain-stitch the hems of most of the models, though. All the jeans were made of sanforised denim I think, often with very long inseams. Your jeans are most likely from the early 90s.

 

You can find Evisu jeans from this period quite often on UK eBay - they used a pretty distinctive gull design on the jeans that were 'painted'.

 

Prior to these, imported MiJ Evis were available (in the UK at least) at a few places, the most well-known being Duffer in London. Occasional deadstock Evis pieces (with or without the tab) from these shops pop up from time to time.

 

The Italian-made Evisu were the precursors to Evisu International's Heritage range, and the full-blown horrors that killed the (non-MiJ) brand for a lot of people.

i had [exactly] that model, back in the in the day ... pre-SuFu, ie.
'bought them around 2001, but could be a late 90's prod'n.
the denim wasn't bad, but not as good as the early to mid-90s MiJs
Edited by IIIrd Icon - 9/30/12 at 6:47am

they stretch a lot. I have the wings + horns slim fit raw (which is the same as straight fit, except for the fit) and they stretched 1 inch around the waist.  

Thanks for the background on the Evisu. You think anyone would want these? They don't fit, so I would like to throw them up on B&S.

 

yeah I wore them all weekend cuffed to about 32.5" and that seemed pretty good.  still a little nervous about sending them away to be hemmed but i trust Jay and Blueowl so I'm sure he'll do a good job.  I just hope i'm satisfied when they come back.  since i was wearing them with such a big double cuff i know they are going to rest a little differently when they come back but at 32.5" i know they won't be too short. 

 

how much longer of an inseam do you guys typically get for raw (sanforized) denim vs. your normal inseam?  (my normal inseam is 30" for a full break).

Edited by jmaudi0 - 9/30/12 at 5:04pm

^ For me, it actually depends on how wide the leg opening is. If it's a fairly slim leg opening (under 20 inches for me) and I'm primarily wearing with sneakers (like Purcells) then I like about an inch or two extra for a bit of stacking. If the jeans have a larger leg opening (over 20 inches), I feel like the extra fabric makes it look sloppy and I tend to hem for very little to no break and cuff once.

Regardless, I always soak first before wearing to get the shrinkage out before hemming. I find that even for sanforized denim, there tends to be a little bit of shrinkage in length (typically 0.5-1 inches of shrinkage). Some people don't like to soak first because of indigo loss but I find it to be really minimal to almost none for good quality denim, especially if you don't agitate during the soak.

After 1.5 years of the same uniqlo jeans [32x32 slim straights], i'd say its about time to upgrade.. I usually wear slim straight but am tempted to do some slim tapered.I'll be going tucked in Sport shirts, and Sports jackets a lot this year. These will be my first Raw denim purchases always went for the budget jeans in uniqlo. I'd like to try something new like 3sixteen or APC, is the extra 120$ worth it in comparison to uniqlo raw denims? Also if there is another brand i shoudl be looking at let me know guys i'm open to all suggestions.. i'd like to spend no more than 150$ but i can go up to 250$ if its worth it.

Naked and Famous Left Hand Twill is a great raw denim and a step up from what you're used to.  It was my first foray into raws and I love them.  The Weird Guy fit is a slim taper which you say you're looking for.

 

I just got a pair of 3sixteen shadow denim (SL-120x) and I'd say the feel of the denim and overall construction is definitely a step up from the NF but by no means is there anything wrong with the NF denim either.  The seams appear neater on the 3sixteens and the denim itself is definitely nicer feeling(at least I think so).  It's much softer from the get go.

 

I'll be alternating those 2 all fall/winter/spring.  Kinda excited....