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I have a jean...(The Ultimate Jean Thread For Beginners) - ask questions here. - Page 1220

post #18286 of 20562

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mistral View Post

Momo 0201
 

 

Everything else is perfect but the leg opening is a bit large. Thanks though.

post #18287 of 20562
Quote:
Originally Posted by jotai View Post

I've been researching/pricing my first real pair of raw denim, and wondered if someone here might have some advice for me:  I am about to start a fairly physical job, which will involve some crawling around on floors, but in an office environment.  So, I am looking for a fairly rugged denim which will look nice and be comfortable.  Would it make sense to look for something with a heavier weight?  Maybe 15oz or so?  I'm not sure I want to be messing with jeans that stand up on their own, but if that's the only way to get the thick, soft, and rugged denim I want, I'm willing to put up with a long break in process.

I also have fairly big thighs and butt from lifting, and want something a little roomier, but slightly tapered.  Am thinking maybe a 501 type of fit from the knee up, but I am a bit hesitant to go there as the two pairs of 501s I have while comfortable are pretty blocky and don't look great - especially from the knee down.  I definitely prefer a fitted look to my pants.  

I am probably going to go try on some N&F Weird Guys in a few days, but I have the impression that N&F aren't super well-constructed, or rugged, compared to something along the lines of high end brands like Ironheart, Roy, etc.  Right now, I am sort of leaning toward Raleigh or Tellason, but am not sure about the durability of their denim either.

If you want jeans that will end up feeling thick and soft, go with Iron Heart (softer) or Samurai (better looking). Jeans in the 12-15 oz range end up feeling thick when rigid and thin/soft when worn in IME.
post #18288 of 20562

I bought a pair of N&F Skinny Guys in 32 last year and loved the way they fit (rise was a little short, and the length was a little long, but overall I was happy with the fit). They were my first pair of raws and so I didn't know what the hell I was doing - I didn't soak them when I first got them. But my girlfriend recently washed my jeans without me knowing and they shrunk like crazy - to the point where I couldn't button them up. So, I'm in the market for a new pair of raws.

 

I was hoping to keep it under $200, and I was looking at 3sixteen, Japan Blue, and Japan Blue x Momotaro jeans at Blue Owl. I was happy with my N&F's, but I want to try something a little different. I was looking at these:

 

1. 3sixteen ST-100x Slim Tapered: http://www.blueowl.us/scripts/psp/VB_Bridge3.dll?VBPROG=\bin\shop.prodt.detail&SKU=7917001

2. Japan Blue JB0101 Skinny Straight: http://www.blueowl.us/scripts/psp/VB_Bridge3.dll?VBPROG=\bin\shop.prodt.detail&SKU=7992003

3. Japan Blue x Momotaro "Going to Battle" 0400SP Tapered: http://www.blueowl.us/scripts/psp/VB_Bridge3.dll?VBPROG=\bin\shop.prodt.detail&SKU=7929000

4. Japan Blue x Momotaro "Going to Battle" 0700SP Tight Straight: http://www.blueowl.us/scripts/psp/VB_Bridge3.dll?VBPROG=\bin\shop.prodt.detail&SKU=7992000

 

Out of these 4, which one would you guys recommend? I would have preferred to get the Japan Blue x Momotaro in Skinny Straight, but Blue Owl is out of stock with them. Is the quality that different between Japan Blue and Japan Blue x Momotaro? But what about size? I'm about 5'10" and 160lb - I liked the 32 for the N&F Skinny Guys, but after shrinking immensely after my first wash, I'm a little hesitant to get 31/32's for the new ones.

post #18289 of 20562
Quote:
Originally Posted by johanm View Post

If you want jeans that will end up feeling thick and soft, go with Iron Heart (softer) or Samurai (better looking). Jeans in the 12-15 oz range end up feeling thick when rigid and thin/soft when worn in IME.

Worst advice ever.

Softness and thickness aren't just influenced by the weight of the denim. Go read up on what denim is all about.
post #18290 of 20562
Are there any jeans out there that taper from the calf down rather than the knee? I know it's probably unlikely but it'd be great to find a pair of denim that suits my huge calves. This would also prevent the "skin tight calf" effect while normal stacking occurs at the knee and ankle. If anyone knows of any, let me know!
post #18291 of 20562
Quote:
Originally Posted by krspdla View Post

Are there any jeans out there that taper from the calf down rather than the knee? I know it's probably unlikely but it'd be great to find a pair of denim that suits my huge calves. This would also prevent the "skin tight calf" effect while normal stacking occurs at the knee and ankle. If anyone knows of any, let me know!

your best bet would probably to be to find some straight jeans that fit you well in the top and thighs, then taper to your liking in the calf.

I have large calves for the size of the rest of me (or so i'm told, my thighs are 22" to 23", and my calves are 15.5") and APC new standards work well for me. they're tapered from the knee down, but much less so than many other jeans.
post #18292 of 20562
Haha my thighs are 20" and my calves are 15". I really doubt I'll find a fit that'll be ideal off the rack, but I've already had a bad tailor experience when trying to taper a pair of Levis 501xx STFs a while ago. I had them tapered from the knee down while only altering from the outer seam and it resulted in the fabric always spiralling around the leg and bunching in the wrong areas. I guess I could get them tapered from both sides, but only as a last resort since I have an obsession with details (selvage).
post #18293 of 20562
if the selvege line is a big deal to you, i imagine tapering from the other seam may complicate things.

I've had a seamstress (friend of my grandma) let out the calf on a pair of jeans from the selvedge line (got about a 1/2" around out of it), theres nothing to it, just sewing a straight line.
post #18294 of 20562
Quote:
Originally Posted by krspdla View Post

Haha my thighs are 20" and my calves are 15". I really doubt I'll find a fit that'll be ideal off the rack, but I've already had a bad tailor experience when trying to taper a pair of Levis 501xx STFs a while ago. I had them tapered from the knee down while only altering from the outer seam and it resulted in the fabric always spiralling around the leg and bunching in the wrong areas. I guess I could get them tapered from both sides, but only as a last resort since I have an obsession with details (selvage).

Selvage is on the outseam, right. Or do STF's come without selvage listing?
post #18295 of 20562
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mistral View Post

Selvage is on the outseam, right. Or do STF's come without selvage listing?

Oh no sorry, I meant to say tapered from the inseam.
post #18296 of 20562

Hi, Quick question, I was looking to get a couple of pairs jeans soon, and was wondering what brands I should look at. I want a darker wash, and a loose fit throughout. Any suggestions?

post #18297 of 20562

Duke -

 

 How much are you trying to spend? How loose of a fit, What model of jeans do you previously have so we can get a better idea of the fit you're looking for.

 

You can always look through the threads on this site or superfuture. Brands like Iron Heart, Flat Head, Pure Blue Japan, Naked & Famous, A.P.C , Levi's , RRL...There's tons of brands, but we need to know what you're actually looking for in a pair of jeans. These brands will all differ from details to the type of fabric and weight.

post #18298 of 20562

I should've mentioned thoser things before, I' not looking to spend alot, preferebly >$100. I actually haven't owned jeans in a couple of years so I don't remember the models I had. I'm looking for fit that doesn't look sloppy but fit comfortably. Hope that helps.

post #18299 of 20562
Duke - Cheap Mondays are cheap too. You can probably get 2 pairs of Levi's for under $100. Levi's 501s are boxy, although you can get decent results with Shrink To Fits. Just know that they will shrink 2-3 inches in the length, and 1 inch in the waist (the waist stretches back out after about a week, however). They'll age ok, but you'll never get the beautiful aged look of more expensive brands that use better dye. If you're looking for something a little more fitted than the 501, the 517 bootcut is actually pretty nice. It sits at the waist (not low slung like so many jeans currently are), it's fitted through the thighs, it has a slight flare to fit over your shoes, and you can find them in the same raw color as the shrink to fits. However, they are pre-shrunk, no matter what anyone tries to tell you. Jeans with zippers generally aren't made to shrink drastically. You can usually find them in stores that sell western wear.
post #18300 of 20562

Thanks so much for the help.

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