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I have a jean...(The Ultimate Jean Thread For Beginners) - ask questions here. - Page 1159

post #17371 of 19519
2/21/12 at 3:19pm
Thread Starter 
I think the explanation isn't clear enough.

Describing denim as "slubby" does not necessarily mean that you can literally feel difference, and Blue Owl's link only confirms this.

For example, these are "slubby" jeans:
263

From owning a pair, I can attest to the fact that you can't feel the difference in hand between it and a pair of "smooth" or "flat" APCs. But, you could take this pair of Nudies and put them next to denim that is bumpy like a burlap sack ala PBJ, Strike Gold, etc. and they'd both be slubby but for different reasons.

It's not necessarily confusion as much as it it a broader definition taken from the garment industry and applied to a denim context for a lack of a better description.

Commodore is right in that irregular yarns play a role, but he left out the big importance the loom itself plays in "slub" by way of tension and chatter in the actual look.
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post #17372 of 19519
2/21/12 at 11:53pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by whodini View Post

I think the explanation isn't clear enough.
Describing denim as "slubby" does not necessarily mean that you can literally feel difference, and Blue Owl's link only confirms this.
For example, these are "slubby" jeans:
263
From owning a pair, I can attest to the fact that you can't feel the difference in hand between it and a pair of "smooth" or "flat" APCs. But, you could take this pair of Nudies and put them next to denim that is bumpy like a burlap sack ala PBJ, Strike Gold, etc. and they'd both be slubby but for different reasons.
It's not necessarily confusion as much as it it a broader definition taken from the garment industry and applied to a denim context for a lack of a better description.
Commodore is right in that irregular yarns play a role, but he left out the big importance the loom itself plays in "slub" by way of tension and chatter in the actual look.

That is right. The loom tension plays a big part in how bumpy and irregular the denim will feel once it is woven. There are certainly varying degrees of "slubbiness" in denim, and the loom tension in part determines that.
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post #17373 of 19519
2/22/12 at 4:48pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Billster View Post

i read it somewere on this forum that they mix in shorter fibers in the yarn or something, i forgot where

Maybe you were reading a description of one of the Samurai Texas cotton models?
Quote:
The S8000JX-N uses 100% Texas cotton which is famous for being a "rough" cotton due to it's high amount of short fibers. Normally, the short fibers are removed to make a smoother fabric, but Samurai adds more short cotton fibers to make the yarn even rougher. The result is a yarn that is highly uneven in size, making the woven fabric very "slubby" (irregular). Moreover, while most denim manufacturers who use Texas cotton mix it with different cottons from various other areas, Samurai uses only 100% Texas cotton. Even the sewing thread is made of 100% Texas cotton. This creates a jean that captures the essence and spirit of this tough Texas denim.

edit:

If anyone has a recommendation for some cheap, black, slim/skinny jeans, I'm all ears. I'm looking for non-distressed (doesn't have to be raw or selvage), button-fly, preferably a long enough inseam for some stacking and enough room in the top block and thighs that they don't look painted-on.

If not, I'll probably just pick up some Unbranded tapered (or maybe skinny) fits from Blue Owl.
Edited by notwithit - 2/22/12 at 8:36pm
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post #17374 of 19519
2/23/12 at 4:08pm
What's the proper way to measure the THIGH of jeans?

I know on the BiG site they tell you how to measure the UPPER thigh, but when I ask for measurements from stores and for the exact same piece and size I get

Thigh: 12" from one store, and
Thigh: 9.5" from another

This is a size 33 W+H, slim bleach out.

I'm asking because 9.5" seems wayyyy too small if another site told me it was 12" (RG)
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post #17375 of 19519
2/23/12 at 4:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Max_Yeah_True View Post

What's the proper way to measure the THIGH of jeans?
I know on the BiG site they tell you how to measure the UPPER thigh, but when I ask for measurements from stores and for the exact same piece and size I get
Thigh: 12" from one store, and
Thigh: 9.5" from another
This is a size 33 W+H, slim bleach out.
I'm asking because 9.5" seems wayyyy too small if another site told me it was 12" (RG)

Different stores measure differently. Some stores measure the thigh right at the crotch, some stores measure several inches down the crotch.

There's no "proper" way to do it, but to be honest with you, I think it'd be nice if every store got on the same page about how they do measurements so that there is no confusion to the consumer.
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post #17376 of 19519
2/23/12 at 7:31pm
Thread Starter 
FWIW, the way a tailor measures a pair of trousers isn't the way a jeans maker does and a jeans retailer does it differently from both of them.

So "same page?" How the hell do you figure who's right?
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post #17377 of 19519
2/23/12 at 8:04pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by bubba04 View Post

^ I should take the opportunity here to point out that the search function on this forum SUCKS. I would love to see senior members here who answer the same question over and over again write blog entries here on the topic that would prevent their answer from getting buried very quickly in these "mega-threads" that seem to prevail in SF.

Disclaimer: this is NOT a dig on El Argentino or any other valuable member here who after answering the same question for the 1000th time will lose his cool -- we all can understand how it can get old after a while -- but rather a commentary on the need for a better system for making the most popular information sought on SF more easily found.

A better method of searching is this


google.com, then enter in the search bar

site:styleforum.net *text goes here*
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post #17378 of 19519
2/23/12 at 8:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by lesamourai View Post


A better method of searching is this
google.com, then enter in the search bar
site:styleforum.net *text goes here*


thanks for that tip!

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post #17379 of 19519
2/23/12 at 11:43pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by whodini View Post

FWIW, the way a tailor measures a pair of trousers isn't the way a jeans maker does and a jeans retailer does it differently from both of them.
So "same page?" How the hell do you figure who's right?

There's so much variance just among how different retailers measure. It would matter less who's "right" than it would just all of them doing it the same way, whichever way that is. But you're right, it won't happen. Everybody thinks that the way they are doing it now is the best way possible, so it's highly doubtful that we'd ever see a universal way that retailers measure.
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post #17380 of 19519
2/24/12 at 4:39pm
All,

Could anyone explain to me what the Warehouse Lee 101B/Z are? Are they a collab or a repro? I don't understand why the jeans seem to make no mention of Warehouse anywhere. Were they contracted to Warehouse by Lee???

Also, the BiG description mentions that they are raw / unwashed, but the labels on the jeans say "sanforized".

http://blueingreensoho.com/site/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=10510&category_id=&manufacturer_id=4&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=62

BiG pics on Flicker:
http://flic.kr/s/aHsjwBXDDk
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post #17381 of 19519
2/24/12 at 5:23pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JDelage View Post

All,
Could anyone explain to me what the Warehouse Lee 101B/Z are? Are they a collab or a repro? I don't understand why the jeans seem to make no mention of Warehouse anywhere. Were they contracted to Warehouse by Lee???
Also, the BiG description mentions that they are raw / unwashed, but the labels on the jeans say "sanforized".
http://blueingreensoho.com/site/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=10510&category_id=&manufacturer_id=4&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=62
BiG pics on Flicker:
http://flic.kr/s/aHsjwBXDDk

A quick email to the vender could answer these questions but...

A collab tends to be a project between two companies to create a new model. A repro is a copy of a former product. So which do you think the Warehouse Lees are?

It was an interesting choice for Warehouse not to advertise their name on the repros but then look at what they ended up with:jeans that look the same as they did when they were first introduced. In fact, you'll see a couple of places describe this as Lee's archival collection and with good reason. Did Lee contract Warehouse? It makes more sense to me that Warehouse approached Lee to make a name for themselves.

I'm not sure if Lee has even made STF jeans. Which seems more believable: BIG making a simple error while detailing shrinkage that seems par for the course for sanforized jeans or Lee sewing on a sanforized label on STF jeans when they're an archival piece that used sanforized denim to begin with?
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post #17382 of 19519
2/24/12 at 7:25pm
I want to buy my first pair of jeans ever.

This is what I want:
-raw selvage SF-approved fancy denim
-pretty slim fit, tapered or pretty slim straight leg
-high rise; like, I want them to sit, if not AT my natural waist, certainly well above my hips.
-sub-$200 price range. These are my first pair ever, so the less expensive the better (up to a point). Just as long as I can get the sick fadez.

A lot of the pairs I've been seeing where I like the fabric and the fit through the hips and legs, they sit way too low on the hips for my tastes. Can you help me out with some suggestions on brands?
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post #17383 of 19519
2/24/12 at 7:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krawczak View Post

I want to buy my first pair of jeans ever.
This is what I want:
-raw selvage SF-approved fancy denim
-pretty slim fit, tapered or pretty slim straight leg
-high rise; like, I want them to sit, if not AT my natural waist, certainly well above my hips.
-sub-$200 price range. These are my first pair ever, so the less expensive the better (up to a point). Just as long as I can get the sick fadez.
A lot of the pairs I've been seeing where I like the fabric and the fit through the hips and legs, they sit way too low on the hips for my tastes. Can you help me out with some suggestions on brands?

The new N&F Weird Guy High pretty much fits each of those bills. Tate + Yoko should have them, and Blue Owl may be able to get a hold of them for you. Would recommend Imperial Shearers, but not sure of their price point.
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post #17384 of 19519
2/24/12 at 9:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by whodini View Post


I'm not sure if Lee has even made STF jeans.

One of the main selling points of Lee (Can't Bust 'em back in the days) was that all of their products were Sanforized. Too lazy to cite the source but they have never made an unsanforized denim
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post #17385 of 19519
2/24/12 at 10:00pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ceoceo View Post

One of the main selling points of Lee (Can't Bust 'em back in the days) was that all of their products were Sanforized. Too lazy to cite the source but they have never made an unsanforized denim

Yeah, that's what I figured. Of the big three (Levi's, Lee, Wrangler), I thought Levi's was the only one that ever did STF as sanforization was a key selling point for the other two brands.

I assumed the OP was aware but in case he wasn't, Warehouse isn't the only one making Leepros. Real McCoy and Edwin have been doing them for years.
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