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I have a jean...(The Ultimate Jean Thread For Beginners) - ask questions here. - Page 1089

post #16321 of 20704
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wally View Post

I have finally figured out the the KMW 1980 is the perfect fit for me. Sadly they are getting harder and harder to find. I'm curious - what other brands/cuts fit similar?

I do like the 1980 cut a lot too. They seem to have a fuller thigh with enough taper but nothing crazy. My samurai s0500's are similar but different. Just look out for 1966 cut specs and look at measurements but yeah nothing is quite the same sadly from what I've found. F380 flathead, sam s0500, and Momotaro tight straight (pretty close?). F380's don't taper as much near the knee, flatheads more rise and tighter in thighs, and the momotaro are close but I haven't soaked because it would be a pain train for how i sized possibly and be closer to the s0500.
post #16322 of 20704
How much wider is the thigh in APC Rescues?

My New Standards are getting way too tight on the thigh as my legs grow. Would it look ridiculous to buy the Rescues and taper the leg from the knee down?

Would the increased rise and lower back pockets effect the look negatively?

I need the waist of 34, thighs of a 36 (currently wearing Sz30 APC NS).
post #16323 of 20704
Thread Starter 
Google "APC Rescue measurements."

The Rescues aren't as huge as people tend to believe. If you taper, you'd have a more pronounced carrot effect. It isn't necessarily a bad thing if not done to exaggeration.
post #16324 of 20704
What is the consensus on the top makers in terms of durability / built quality? If you had to put premium brands in a Good, Better, Best category, which brand would be in each box?

Thanks,

JD
post #16325 of 20704
Thread Starter 
Most of the repros are known for their build quality, fashion brands (APC) typically aren't.

There's a correlation between price and build but there are exceptions. For example, sub $200 jeans won't necessarily be any less durable than $300 jeans.

I think once you get past $200, the playing field is fairly level with a few exceptions. It's the sub $200 market where build can vary wildly.
post #16326 of 20704
Quote:
Originally Posted by JDelage View Post

What is the consensus on the top makers in terms of durability / built quality? If you had to put premium brands in a Good, Better, Best category, which brand would be in each box?
Thanks,
JD

I've owned denim from most of the "top makers", and they all do really great work on their jeans. I really don't think there's enough of a difference in quality/durability to fairly assign the makers into significantly different categories from each other.

I will say that IME, I've gotten slightly better construction quality and durability out of Iron Heart, Studio D'Artisan, and Evisu's Made in Japan line than the others. I've gotten slightly worse durability out of Pure Blue Japan and Skull than the others. I've had a little bit worse quality control on my Samurais than other brands as well, particularly with loose fly buttons, though Samurai is clearly the best of these brands when it comes to attention to cosmetic details.

Ultimately, it's not a big difference between any of these brands on these things. Pick what appeals to you in terms of fit and details, all of these brands are quality and should please you.
post #16327 of 20704
Quote:
Originally Posted by JDelage View Post

What is the consensus on the top makers in terms of durability / built quality? If you had to put premium brands in a Good, Better, Best category, which brand would be in each box?
Thanks,
JD

A pair of durable jeans should at least have hidden rivets and chainstitched hems/waistband. Almost all jeans in the $200 range have this. I think durability depends a little on fit as well, since the fit would lead to more or less wear in areas such as the crotch.
post #16328 of 20704
Lot of folks here obsess on little details often found on expensive Japanese repro's, call it "quality construction". Yet when it comes to durability, it often needs more repairs than a cheaper pair.

Although both terms are related and should be, the discrepancies come to light during discussions. That being said, it's hard to beat a $40 Levi's.
post #16329 of 20704
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevent View Post

A pair of durable jeans should at least have hidden rivets and chainstitched hems/waistband. Almost all jeans in the $200 range have this.

Don't confuse nostalgia with facts. Hidden rivets are made obsolete since the invention of bartacking. In fact, I might go as far to say that rivets on a 5-pocket jeans serve a more cosmetic role rather than a functional one.
post #16330 of 20704
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by entrero View Post

Don't confuse nostalgia with facts. Hidden rivets are made obsolete since the invention of bartacking. In fact, I might go as far to say that rivets on a 5-pocket jeans serve a more cosmetic role rather than a functional one.

What he said. Hidden rivets haven't kept my back pockets in place nor have back pockets fallen off my jeans without hidden rivets. Chain stitching stays true to tradition but is objectively weaker than a lock stitch.

If you start saying that $200 jeans must have x, y, and z details to be durable then you're just kidding yourself. Being sewn like shit is a far bigger factor than hidden rivets in terms of durability. It's just as a consumer you're told that x, y, and z add value to the piece, so much so that jeans without those details appear inferior when, in the bigger picture, perhaps they're not.

In an upcoming interview with Rogue Territory, Karl mentions how he puts out a pair of trousers and receives emails from people telling him how much they love the cut, fit, finish, and hand... but if only it were selvage. It's consumer brainwashing at its best with the blame resting on the retailers as much as the consumers on here regurgitating it as gospel.
post #16331 of 20704
Anybody know where you can buy Dior's in the US?
post #16332 of 20704
Quote:
Originally Posted by entrero View Post

Don't confuse nostalgia with facts. Hidden rivets are made obsolete since the invention of bartacking. In fact, I might go as far to say that rivets on a 5-pocket jeans serve a more cosmetic role rather than a functional one.

I wouldn't go so far as to call hidden rivets obsolete, because that would imply that there is no place in the world of denim for them today, but I do agree that their benefits are entirely cosmetic. A properly bartacked back pocket will be as durable if not more so than one with hidden rivets, but the general consensus among denim enthusiasts is that jeans with hidden back pocket rivets do look better in that area as they wear.

It is also worth noting that even though hidden rivets on the back pockets are not necessarily a superior method of construction, the overwhelming majority of the best-constructed jeans out there do have this feature.
Quote:
Originally Posted by whodini View Post

In an upcoming interview with Rogue Territory, Karl mentions how he puts out a pair of trousers and receives emails from people telling him how much they love the cut, fit, finish, and hand... but if only it were selvage. It's consumer brainwashing at its best with the blame resting on the retailers as much as the consumers on here regurgitating it as gospel.

I agree with this as well. Being selvage does not necessarily make a denim superior. However, all of the best denims out there today do happen to be selvage.
post #16333 of 20704
Quote:
Originally Posted by SePho View Post

Anybody know where you can buy Dior's in the US?

Dior Homme stores
Saks, Barneys, fashion department stores

Not all department stores carry Dior so find out before going.
post #16334 of 20704

Anybody know where you can buy Naked & Famous in the US ? (Online purchase)   bigstar[1].gif

post #16335 of 20704
Im getting tired of my apc petit standard blue jeans so I need a new pair of blue jeans. I am thinking about getting roy black n blues or dior 19 cm whereby I already have some black diors`. any other recommendation?
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