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I have a jean...(The Ultimate Jean Thread For Beginners) - ask questions here. - Page 939

post #14071 of 20701
Quote:
Originally Posted by lesamourai View Post
Sorry man. I walked over there during lunch and apparently I was misinformed over the phone and it's just a standard alteration, no chain stitching.

Gotcha. Do they have any denim-related expertise, or is it just a standard dry cleaning/alterations kind of place? Feel free to PM me if you prefer. I'm curious, because I would expect to have to send any repair jobs to Denim Doctors or Self Edge instead of having them done locally.

Quote:
Originally Posted by commodorewheeler View Post
A hot soak will get most of the starch out, and that's good for the longevity of your jeans, but you actually get more contrast on your fades with the starch still there. Whether the increased contrast is a good thing or not is a matter of opinion, of course.

In your position, I would just wear them. Starching again will help increase the contrast in your fades, but your jeans will last longer if you leave them as is.

I know some people are all crazy about leaving the starch in for as long as possible, or even adding starch to accelerate fades, but there's more to fades than starch. I've given my Samurais three hour-long hot soaks, and they still fade fastest of any jeans I own.

Also, I think part of the reason so many people have crotch blowouts with Nudies is that Nudie overstarches their jeans and then tells people not to wash them.

In conclusion, YMMV, and CtK is wrong.
post #14072 of 20701
I have some older 19cm dior denim that tore badly and am searching for new jeans. I want the same type of tapered cut in a raw jean (i like the form fitting aspect of it). Is there any reason to not go get another pair of diors? Are japanese raw jeans at self-edge or somewhere else going to be vastly superior? I also don't want to buy a pair of jeans, soak them and be unable to return them.
post #14073 of 20701
Quote:
Originally Posted by commodorewheeler View Post
In your position, I would just wear them. Starching again will help increase the contrast in your fades, but your jeans will last longer if you leave them as is.

Alright then, I'll probably do that. I was hoping you or one of the other denim nerds on the board would weigh in. thanks!
post #14074 of 20701
Quote:
Originally Posted by strongisland View Post
I have some older 19cm dior denim that tore badly and am searching for new jeans. I want the same type of tapered cut in a raw jean (i like the form fitting aspect of it). Is there any reason to not go get another pair of diors? Are japanese raw jeans at self-edge or somewhere else going to be vastly superior? I also don't want to buy a pair of jeans, soak them and be unable to return them.

http://www.selfedge.com/shop/index.p...roducts_id=640

Would seem to be close to what you're looking for, but you would have to deal with sizing concerns with the raw denim.
post #14075 of 20701
Quote:
Originally Posted by strongisland View Post
I have some older 19cm dior denim that tore badly and am searching for new jeans. I want the same type of tapered cut in a raw jean (i like the form fitting aspect of it). Is there any reason to not go get another pair of diors? Are japanese raw jeans at self-edge or somewhere else going to be vastly superior? I also don't want to buy a pair of jeans, soak them and be unable to return them.

tried on some japanese jeans, but in the end elected for diors. the cut is sublime. i'd go with what you know and love. bad news about the tearing though.
post #14076 of 20701
I've never owned a pair of Levi jeans before, and i just picked up a pair of the selvedge matchsticks in 30x34. How much do they actually stretch in the waist without rigorous activity? They're a bit more than tight when sitting down (not ball crushing tight, but I'm conscious of the fit). I would have gone with the 31s, except for the fact that they were a little looser than "just right" in the store, and I was worried about them stretching even more over time, to the point where they would fall off. Any help would be appreciated. (I did a search, but all relevant posts that came up were from a year ago. Not sure if they're the same model.)

tldr: levi matchstick selvedge are pretty tight; not really sure if I should get a bigger size and hope they shrink after washing. which one, and thanks.
post #14077 of 20701
I'm looking for something that fits like a NF skinny guy but with a tighter leg opening.

And for the record, the 6.85 opening on my sz 28 Weird Guys is still not tight enough. It also doesn't help that I don't like the rise on weird guys.

In other words, I need something like skinny guys, but with a leg opening that's even more tapered than weird guys?
post #14078 of 20701
Starch can always be selectively applied to areas where you might like more fading and where stress-point abrasions won't be an issue (whiskering and honey-combing areas for example)... I always hot-soak my denim before wear, even sanforised stuff - better for the fabric me thinks.
post #14079 of 20701
Quote:
Originally Posted by _C350_ View Post
thank you very much for the reply. I shouldnt have hot soaked it then. shoot!

You'll be fine, as long as you wear the jeans a lot and don't wash too often going forwards from here on out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by notwithit View Post
I know some people are all crazy about leaving the starch in for as long as possible, or even adding starch to accelerate fades, but there's more to fades than starch. I've given my Samurais three hour-long hot soaks, and they still fade fastest of any jeans I own.

Also, I think part of the reason so many people have crotch blowouts with Nudies is that Nudie overstarches their jeans and then tells people not to wash them.

In conclusion, YMMV, and CtK is wrong.

Samurais are a completely different animal from APCs. Because Samurais are made from unsanforized (shrink-to-fit) denim, you *have* to hot soak them before wearing them. If you don't, they will shrink a lot with the first wash, and your fades will move out of place from where they should be.

Samurai is also notorious for fading fast, that's just the nature of how that brand has their denim dyed. They would still fade with more contrast starched than unstarched though, that is pretty much universal for all denim.

Quote:
Originally Posted by smoothness View Post
I've never owned a pair of Levi jeans before, and i just picked up a pair of the selvedge matchsticks in 30x34. How much do they actually stretch in the waist without rigorous activity? They're a bit more than tight when sitting down (not ball crushing tight, but I'm conscious of the fit). I would have gone with the 31s, except for the fact that they were a little looser than "just right" in the store, and I was worried about them stretching even more over time, to the point where they would fall off. Any help would be appreciated. (I did a search, but all relevant posts that came up were from a year ago. Not sure if they're the same model.)

tldr: levi matchstick selvedge are pretty tight; not really sure if I should get a bigger size and hope they shrink after washing. which one, and thanks.

Sounds like you picked the right size. Denim will stretch, even if you are not particularly active in the jeans.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ac_slater View Post
I'm looking for something that fits like a NF skinny guy but with a tighter leg opening.

And for the record, the 6.85 opening on my sz 28 Weird Guys is still not tight enough. It also doesn't help that I don't like the rise on weird guys.

In other words, I need something like skinny guys, but with a leg opening that's even more tapered than weird guys?

Maybe look at the Dior 17 cm?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikecch View Post
Starch can always be selectively applied to areas where you might like more fading and where stress-point abrasions won't be an issue (whiskering and honey-combing areas for example)...

I always hot-soak my denim before wear, even sanforised stuff - better for the fabric me thinks.

Personally, I agree with you. I care more about longevity than high contrast fades, so I usually soak even sanforized denim, unless it is presoaked from the manufacturer.
post #14080 of 20701
Quote:
Originally Posted by commodorewheeler View Post
Samurais are a completely different animal from APCs. Because Samurais are made from unsanforized (shrink-to-fit) denim, you *have* to hot soak them before wearing them. If you don't, they will shrink a lot with the first wash, and your fades will move out of place from where they should be.

Samurai is also notorious for fading fast, that's just the nature of how that brand has their denim dyed. They would still fade with more contrast starched than unstarched though, that is pretty much universal for all denim.

I absolutely agree on all counts. I pretty much always do two hour-long hot soaks right off the bat with unsanforized denim to get as much of the shrink out of the way as possible. I was more so trying to say that starch isn't the only factor involved in fading, and you can have fast-fading denim with very little starch in it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by commodorewheeler View Post
Personally, I agree with you. I care more about longevity than high contrast fades, so I usually soak even sanforized denim, unless it is presoaked from the manufacturer.

Interesting...and yeah, that totally makes sense from a longevity perspective. The denim's gonna fade anyway.

It kinda seems like the most direct route to really high-contrast fades with minimal risk of a blow-out would be to soak immediately, then use IIIrd Icon's method of starching a few key areas (honeycombs, lap whiskers) to enhance the level of abrasion. Not sure whether I'd do it personally, but it's an option.
post #14081 of 20701
I'm around 5'5" and my legs are kinda short. Should I hem jeans or just let the bunch? I feel like when I hem them, they look off.
post #14082 of 20701
Quote:
Originally Posted by acoustik View Post
I'm around 5'5" and my legs are kinda short. Should I hem jeans or just let the bunch? I feel like when I hem them, they look off.

Depends on the jean. I'm 5'6" and let my APC NS and Dior stack to pretty awesome results, but I had to hem my Samurai because the inseam was incredibly long. It's up to you. I've come to terms with the fact that most nicer denim will stack on my (usually 34" inseam, MINIMUM) so I've gotten used to the look and I like it.
post #14083 of 20701
Quote:
Originally Posted by notwithit View Post
Gotcha. Do they have any denim-related expertise, or is it just a standard dry cleaning/alterations kind of place? Feel free to PM me if you prefer. I'm curious, because I would expect to have to send any repair jobs to Denim Doctors or Self Edge instead of having them done locally. I know some people are all crazy about leaving the starch in for as long as possible, or even adding starch to accelerate fades, but there's more to fades than starch. I've given my Samurais three hour-long hot soaks, and they still fade fastest of any jeans I own. Also, I think part of the reason so many people have crotch blowouts with Nudies is that Nudie overstarches their jeans and then tells people not to wash them. In conclusion, YMMV, and CtK is wrong.
Sure. It's a place called Charlie's Jeans. I found it while looking around for places to get hems/repairs without having to send it off to somewhere like SE or Denim Doctors. I figured, hey, they have 'jeans' in the name...wouldn't hurt to give them a call. But as it turns out, they don't have a chain stitching machine. Don't know how well their repairs would be. Also, the brands they carry are...well, not good. You won't even see something like APC or Nudie in there, just designer denim. Quite disappointed in what Philly has to offer in terms of clothes, especially jeans. I guess I might just take the train up to NY one day and have at it there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClambakeSkate View Post
Depends on the jean. I'm 5'6" and let my APC NS and Dior stack to pretty awesome results, but I had to hem my Samurai because the inseam was incredibly long. It's up to you. I've come to terms with the fact that most nicer denim will stack on my (usually 34" inseam, MINIMUM) so I've gotten used to the look and I like it.
I'm about 5'7" and I can never get my NS to stack in a way that I like them. I was going to get them hemmed but now since I'm out of a place that I like I dunno if I should just hot soak them and hope they shrink to a length that I like or get a normal shortening and keep the original hem. I really like the unsoaked color of the jean right now...so I'm slightly conflicted.
post #14084 of 20701
Anyone know how the sizing on SILENT by Damir Doma slim fit jeans runs?
post #14085 of 20701
Hi all, this is my first post ! (so take it easy on me if I break any rules) ...

I've been reading through hundreds of posts on this thread and learned a lot about jeans. I've decided to go and try out some APCs and N&Fs this weekend to decide on which cut fits me. I would probably decide on a pair that I would wear in everyday casual situations.

However, I initially came looking for a pair of jeans that does NOT fade. Ideally a low to mid rise, tapered, dark indigo, $200 or less, with a fit suitable for a well built physique of average height and 32 waist. I would use this pair for more "dressy" situations, with fitted tucked in shirts and jackets. What brands would you recommend? (some brands that I saw mentioned so far in the discussions did not meet the price criteria).

Alternatively, if there is a way to slow down the fading on APC or N&F, I would consider this as an option ...

I know that I'm asking for the opposite of what most people in this thread go for, but hopefully someone can help
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