Originally Posted by mikecch
Yeah, Samurai does have the biggest range in the heavier weights - but you've got to deal with a pair of jeans that's has lots of Japanese symbolism (if that's not your thing), a fairly weak leather patch on their standard models, and less spectacular hard-ware than you would expect for the price. But the variety and texture in their denim is spectacular
And they have lots of interesting little details.
Agreed on all you said, but I would debate you on the Sam detailing and hardware. I find this to be one of their strengths, IMO. It's not just for show. And the patches are easily covered by a belt
Originally Posted by niix
Hello, I'm looking to get my first pair of APCs. I wore Levi 510s for awhile Basically I'm looking for something that still fits tight but nothing too over the top, so I'm confused on if I should go with the New Standards or the New Cures. I'm thinking a size 30 would be best for me because I normally wear a 32, although a buddy of mine who wears 31 ended up sizing 3 sizes down and was more satisfied with the fit. Can someone give me some advice?
New Standards are the ones you want, no question. You're correct on sizing. Two down for account for vanity sizing will get you a waist fit similar to your 32 in Levis. Forum wisdom advises one more down (for a total of -3") to account for the stretch - but that's up to you.
Originally Posted by B^2
do you think it's wrong to try on a pair of jeans in the store for sizing and then trying to find a used pair for cheap. the iron hearts interest me but im not sure I want to spend the money without having tried wearing heavy denim for a bit.
I don't. Bricks and mortar retailers understand that this is part of the gamble. Retailers are also showcasing a brand, so that it can be experienced/tried on first-hand. I see no ethical dilemma if you end up buying used IH - the company has already benefited from a sale to the prior owner, and you may buy more. Look at it this way; if you went in to try something on and didn't like it, and bought nothing, it would be the same results for the retailer.
Originally Posted by mikecch
How heavy are the fabric on your current jeans? Maybe you could step it up in increments rather then jumping straight to 21 oz or above? To be honest I don't like my denim to be heavier than 19 oz - I don't have anything heavier than 18 oz at the moment.
Heed these words!! (you seem to know your shit, mikecch. Welcome aboard)
Originally Posted by bison
A couple quick questions concerning measuring yourself/denim: 1. I've heard various different thoughts on this, so just for clarification, when I measure my waist (to size up/down from), should I measure my true waist or somewhere below, where it's more realistic for the jeans to sit? My waist is very small (26-27" depending on the day), though my legs are pretty normal, so I'm wondering which measurement I'd be sizing down from. 2. When measuring the thigh of a pair of jeans, do I measure from the front or back? And do I just measure straight across from one end to another perpendicular to the inseam, or do I measure from the inseam to outseam or what? Unrelated, but if you have any experience with APC denim and the NS in particular, it would help me a ton if you knew how much stretch I could expect in various areas (especially the seat) over time.
1. Sizing jeans is difficult and often requires 'bracketing' your size. In some you may need 26, in others, even a 28 due to fit. I still make errors in sizing judgement. Best to go with tagged size that you think you are. (As for measuring your waist: it can be inaccurate and misleading with denim. My natural waist is a 33 but I wear a 32 or 31 in jeans). 2. Front. Lay flat. At crotch intersection, measure straight across the whole thigh, (not seam-to-seam), and make tape parallel to angle of waist band. 3. APC - Waist will stretch 2"+ with ease. But will shrink back with wash. Seat stretch is harder to define, but you won't get diaper-ass as with some (Jean Shop, I'm talkin' to you...). You will see a fair bit of stretch in all areas, especially hips and ass, so if jeans are snug (not crushingly tight) in those areas when new, you're okay.