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I have a jean...(The Ultimate Jean Thread For Beginners) - ask questions here. - Page 743

post #11131 of 20759
Hello, I'm looking to get my first pair of APCs. I wore Levi 510s for awhile then eventually switched to the 511s due to the 510s being just a bit too tight in my calves. Although I do like the way the 510s first fit at purchase of after wash. Not to long ago I purchased a pair of Diesel Shioners in size 32x32 and love the fit on them, although they have stretched out a bit since my purchase about 2 months ago (with no wash). Basically I'm looking for something that still fits tight but nothing too over the top, so I'm confused on if I should go with the New Standards or the New Cures. I'm thinking a size 30 would be best for me because I normally wear a 32, although a buddy of mine who wears 31 ended up sizing 3 sizes down and was more satisfied with the fit. Can someone give me some advice?
post #11132 of 20759
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikecch View Post
Yeah, Samurai does have the biggest range in the heavier weights - but you've got to deal with a pair of jeans that's has lots of Japanese symbolism (if that's not your thing), a fairly weak leather patch on their standard models, and less spectacular hard-ware than you would expect for the price. But the variety and texture in their denim is spectacular And they have lots of interesting little details.

I've also noticed IH's construction techniques are more solid/suitable for the weight range they are dealing with - and many say once you pop on IHs, you can't stop.

I've also heard good things about the very heavy weight Studio D'Artisan's from their Japanese stockists (there are some limited editions of 60 coming out later this year) - SDA's construction is always solid (every seam expertly closed, thread finishes neatly tucked away, the stitching is always tight and dense).

I do agree that Momotaro's denim is top-notch (I rather like the 14.7 oz denim on the copper series), but once you get under 16oz, there're just so much nice denim to choose from (Pherrow's, Sugar Cane, Full Count, Studio D'Artisan, The Flat Head, etc); and it becomes a matter of personal preference and trial & error.


do you think it's wrong to try on a pair of jeans in the store for sizing and then trying to find a used pair for cheap. the iron hearts interest me but im not sure I want to spend the money without having tried wearing heavy denim for a bit.
post #11133 of 20759
Errr, I don't know... I guess you could be forgiven if you're a poor student saving up the money from your nightshift job to buy your first pair of IH. I don't think it's right or wrong, just whatever your personal ethics are.

But generally retailers spend quite a bit of effort and time getting these products from Japan - so I'd buy from them unless the pricing has been ridiculously jacked up.
post #11134 of 20759
Quote:
Originally Posted by B^2 View Post
do you think it's wrong to try on a pair of jeans in the store for sizing and then trying to find a used pair for cheap. the iron hearts interest me but im not sure I want to spend the money without having tried wearing heavy denim for a bit.
You are just trying them on in the store, no big deal. Knock yourself out.
post #11135 of 20759
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nopike343 View Post
You are just trying them on in the store, no big deal. Knock yourself out.



I've worked in retail so I've experienced it when people come in to try something just to buy it online. I'm just not sure if heavy denim is for me yet which is why I'm inclined to spend like 150-200 dollars on a used pair of IH's before I buy a new pair for full retail.
post #11136 of 20759
Quote:
Originally Posted by B^2 View Post
I've worked in retail so I've experienced it when people come in to try something just to buy it online. I'm just not sure if heavy denim is for me yet which is why I'm inclined to spend like 150-200 dollars on a used pair of IH's before I buy a new pair for full retail.
How heavy are the fabric on your current jeans? Maybe you could step it up in increments rather then jumping straight to 21 oz or above? To be honest I don't like my denim to be heavier than 19 oz - I don't have anything heavier than 18 oz at the moment. IH just released a 18oz jean in collab. with Take5, but it's expensive :P
post #11137 of 20759
Quote:
Originally Posted by invidious_espresso View Post
Hey guys, been a lurker for a while, but now I'm in need of a bit of fit advice.

I picked up a pair of the Uniqlo MIJs the other day. 31/32. I think they're too big, but they were so uncomfortably tight in the store that I almost sized up. Plus, I've had a pair of their one-washes for a year in the same size, and they fit great. I still think that the fit above the knee isn't terrible, but it gets pretty ugly at the knee:

These are after a warm soak







Return isn't an option. I'm not a huge fan of stacks or cuffs, but whatever works I'll go with. I think I'm almost surely going to get them hemmed, but should I look into getting them tapered too? I think my calves are small...

Basically, any advice is welcome. Right now I think they look too cartoonish to be worn in public.

bump
post #11138 of 20759
The knees are always going to look that way on a relatively new pair of raw denim - it'll drape better once the fabric softens.

I think the way it fits is fine, and you'll have to actually wash the jeans properly (sometimes even multiple times) before the full shrinkage and final setting will develop - it's a process that takes time. If I were you, I chuck them in the washing machine - and then keep on wearing them until they mould to my body.
post #11139 of 20759
Thanks for the advice. I'm trying not to put them in the washing machine for a while for fade concerns, however, and I'm not sure if they'll shrink much because the denim is sanforized.
post #11140 of 20759
I guess you'll just have to tough out the initial awkward phase then...
Sanforised will still shrink, up to 3% on first wash - and regardless of sanforisation, the extra stretch due to wear will be reclaimed

I just laundered 2 pairs of sanforised jeans today, and both shrank noticeably.
post #11141 of 20759
A couple quick questions concerning measuring yourself/denim: 1. I've heard various different thoughts on this, so just for clarification, when I measure my waist (to size up/down from), should I measure my true waist or somewhere below, where it's more realistic for the jeans to sit? My waist is very small (26-27" depending on the day), though my legs are pretty normal, so I'm wondering which measurement I'd be sizing down from. 2. When measuring the thigh of a pair of jeans, do I measure from the front or back? And do I just measure straight across from one end to another perpendicular to the inseam, or do I measure from the inseam to outseam or what? Unrelated, but if you have any experience with APC denim and the NS in particular, it would help me a ton if you knew how much stretch I could expect in various areas (especially the seat) over time.
post #11142 of 20759
And you're happy with the wide leg? Or are you looking for a different style? If you are happy with the jeans, a measurement of the leg opening and thigh would help so we can refer you to similarly cut jeans.





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post #11143 of 20759
Thanks mike. I might just go ahead and tough it out and see how it goes. I still think they might be a bit too long and wide though. Anybody else have an idea?
post #11144 of 20759
Quote:
Originally Posted by invidious_espresso View Post
Thanks mike. I might just go ahead and tough it out and see how it goes. I still think they might be a bit too long and wide though. Anybody else have an idea?
Maybe it's the length? It looks like you're getting some stacking-type action around the leg, which is obviously weird looking. I'd tough it out and wear it around. It's just part of how the denim will feel for the first few weeks/10-15 wears. Also, to be fair, Uniqlo denim is not the most amazing stuff in the world. You would probably have fewer problems with something less expensive. Obviously that's probably not what you're looking for, which is cool. The Uniqlo stuff is just going to take a bit more work, I'd imagine.
post #11145 of 20759
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikecch View Post
Yeah, Samurai does have the biggest range in the heavier weights - but you've got to deal with a pair of jeans that's has lots of Japanese symbolism (if that's not your thing), a fairly weak leather patch on their standard models, and less spectacular hard-ware than you would expect for the price. But the variety and texture in their denim is spectacular And they have lots of interesting little details.
Agreed on all you said, but I would debate you on the Sam detailing and hardware. I find this to be one of their strengths, IMO. It's not just for show. And the patches are easily covered by a belt
Quote:
Originally Posted by niix View Post
Hello, I'm looking to get my first pair of APCs. I wore Levi 510s for awhile Basically I'm looking for something that still fits tight but nothing too over the top, so I'm confused on if I should go with the New Standards or the New Cures. I'm thinking a size 30 would be best for me because I normally wear a 32, although a buddy of mine who wears 31 ended up sizing 3 sizes down and was more satisfied with the fit. Can someone give me some advice?
New Standards are the ones you want, no question. You're correct on sizing. Two down for account for vanity sizing will get you a waist fit similar to your 32 in Levis. Forum wisdom advises one more down (for a total of -3") to account for the stretch - but that's up to you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by B^2 View Post
do you think it's wrong to try on a pair of jeans in the store for sizing and then trying to find a used pair for cheap. the iron hearts interest me but im not sure I want to spend the money without having tried wearing heavy denim for a bit.
I don't. Bricks and mortar retailers understand that this is part of the gamble. Retailers are also showcasing a brand, so that it can be experienced/tried on first-hand. I see no ethical dilemma if you end up buying used IH - the company has already benefited from a sale to the prior owner, and you may buy more. Look at it this way; if you went in to try something on and didn't like it, and bought nothing, it would be the same results for the retailer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikecch View Post
How heavy are the fabric on your current jeans? Maybe you could step it up in increments rather then jumping straight to 21 oz or above? To be honest I don't like my denim to be heavier than 19 oz - I don't have anything heavier than 18 oz at the moment.
Heed these words!! (you seem to know your shit, mikecch. Welcome aboard)
Quote:
Originally Posted by bison View Post
A couple quick questions concerning measuring yourself/denim: 1. I've heard various different thoughts on this, so just for clarification, when I measure my waist (to size up/down from), should I measure my true waist or somewhere below, where it's more realistic for the jeans to sit? My waist is very small (26-27" depending on the day), though my legs are pretty normal, so I'm wondering which measurement I'd be sizing down from. 2. When measuring the thigh of a pair of jeans, do I measure from the front or back? And do I just measure straight across from one end to another perpendicular to the inseam, or do I measure from the inseam to outseam or what? Unrelated, but if you have any experience with APC denim and the NS in particular, it would help me a ton if you knew how much stretch I could expect in various areas (especially the seat) over time.
1. Sizing jeans is difficult and often requires 'bracketing' your size. In some you may need 26, in others, even a 28 due to fit. I still make errors in sizing judgement. Best to go with tagged size that you think you are. (As for measuring your waist: it can be inaccurate and misleading with denim. My natural waist is a 33 but I wear a 32 or 31 in jeans). 2. Front. Lay flat. At crotch intersection, measure straight across the whole thigh, (not seam-to-seam), and make tape parallel to angle of waist band. 3. APC - Waist will stretch 2"+ with ease. But will shrink back with wash. Seat stretch is harder to define, but you won't get diaper-ass as with some (Jean Shop, I'm talkin' to you...). You will see a fair bit of stretch in all areas, especially hips and ass, so if jeans are snug (not crushingly tight) in those areas when new, you're okay.
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