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New castangia suit *pics*

post #1 of 22
Thread Starter 
Here's the suit that I picked up from Andrew: The link to the original auction and a description is HERE. My main concern is the fit of the shoulders.  Although I lost some weight recently, my shoulders and arms are still on the big side, which is why I typically buy a size 42, even though my chest measures 40.  As in my other coats, the arms don't drop straight down from the shoulders...they bulge little outwards.  However, this coat is much more comfortable than I anticipated, my range of motion is very good.  Comments? As far as alterations, the first thing that jumps out is that the sleeves are a little short.  Andrew, you weren't kidding when you said this suit measures as a regular, as opposed to it's marked size, 40L.  On the other hand, the shirt that I'm wearing in that pic is RTW, and the cuff circumference is far too large.  Thus, the sleeves aren't as short as one might initially think. Comments about the length of the jacket?  Front view makes the skirt look a bit short, however, the side view seems to appropriately cut my body in half. Waist could be surpressed a bit. Collar could be shortened a bit.  You can see wrinkles between my traps on the back view, indicating too much cloth, though it's less pronounced on this suit than my others. I literally just took the jacket out of the box, so I haven't formed too many conclusions yet.  The first thing I noticed about the suit was how great the fabric was.  The Super 150's feels more like cashmere to me than wool.  Also, you can hardly notice wrinkles, even though it was tightly packed in a box.  Great suit. I have 48 hours to decide whether I'm going to keep it, so that's how long you have to change my mind...please be brutally honest.  All criticisms welcome.
post #2 of 22
Well, I sold it to you, but: What jumps out at me is that the sleeves need to be lengthened and the collar adjusted. Shoulder width and length look right to me for this suit - it is intended to fit slim and short. If you try it on with the slacks (assuming the waist fits) it's going to look a lot better - those slacks have a slim leg that complements the jacket. Make sure to finish them with only a very slight break. A super 150's wool fiber is supposed to have the same diameter as a high-grade cashmere fiber. That particular 150's wool fabric makes a lot of cashmere's I've felt seem cheap by comparison. Another thing about that fabric, it has a bit more weight and substantially more natural stretch than most woolen's, so it drapes extremely clean, with nary a wrinkle.
post #3 of 22
I think the suit looks quite nice, the length seems about right to me. I wonder about the bunching up of the sleeve in the back view but it could have been from it being recently unpacked. Other than that, the fit looks quite nice to me, besides the obvious alterations (sleeve, etc) Looks like a great suit for the price.
post #4 of 22
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Well, I sold it to you, but: What jumps out at me is that the sleeves need to be lengthened and the collar adjusted...
Could you please elaborate regarding the collar adjustment? I typically ask that the collar be shortened, to smooth out the wrinkles at the base of the neck, between the traps. But that's where I run into problems. If you take a look at the picture, there's already almost too much shirt collar showing as it is. When the collar is shortened, it's even more pronounced - the suit collar essentially rests at the base of the shirt collar exposing the whole thing, as opposed to a more appropriate .5-.75". Can you think of any solutions?
post #5 of 22
I think the jacket looks too short on you. It's not just the sleeves; the jacket barely covered your behind. You probably should wear a long.
post #6 of 22
Hmmm, I'm not sure if cutting away the excess fabric would lower the collar or not, maybe it would just lay smoother, maybe not. It almost looks like the jacket is not sitting correctly on your shoulders - it could sit a bit higher. Shrug your shoulders a bit and see if it settles in a better postion. Edit - the shirt can impact the fit of the collar considerably. You might try another shirt and see how it looks. Some RTW shirts have collars that just don't sit right under a jacket (Express comes to mind.)
post #7 of 22
Great suit. The jacket looks great a bit short, it's more modern that way. Definitly the sleeves need to be let out. No one mentioned that the pants are an inch or two too long, you need to get them hemmed.
post #8 of 22
I echo A. Harris' remark on the collar. I think the problem just might be the jacket not settling on your shoulders the correct way. Alterations probably aren't necessary; see if you're wearing the jacket at the shoulders properly. Judging from the apparent gap between your shirt cuffs and the sleeve ends (not the requisite bit of linen, they look like they're actually hovering as opposed to lightly resting on your shirt cuffs), it looks like you're wearing your jacket pitched backwards a bit, or are standing too erect (probably for the camera.) Again, it's hard to tell from pictures, but I feel that, if you adopt a more natural posture and wear the jacket around a bit to give it a chance to settle properly, the fit will be fine.
post #9 of 22
The fabric is superlative, and the suit coat apears to fit perfectly where it absolutely must--in the shoulders/chest. But, regarding the jacket length, I'm surprised no one has commented on the triangle of shirt showing above your waistband. If the suit trousers don't have a substantially longer rise than do the trousers in the picture, you're going to have to return the suit. (I note that the slacks you're wearing are already pulled up high, as they should--which makes the coat length adequate as seen from the rear.) It's been a long day: What I mean is that the jacket covers your derriere--as another poster has noted. This is all that's needed from the rear view. But if the trousers are allowed to slip at all, the seat of your pants will show in back. A good reason to wear braces with this suit--assuming the rise is long enough in the first place.
post #10 of 22
Great suit and you would not be stoned in the street if you wore it as it is. I don't know if you've noticed but your right arm is much lower than the other. Either your arm is longer or your sholder is lower. B
post #11 of 22
Quote:
But, regarding the jacket length, I'm surprised no one has commented on the triangle of shirt showing above your waistband.  If the suit trousers don't have a substantially longer rise than do the trousers in the picture, you're going to have to return the suit.
Hmm, is that really a criterion of proper suit fit?  I thought that open or closed front quarters was just another characteristic of a specific suit silhouette. dan
post #12 of 22
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post #13 of 22
suit looks great. clearly the sleeves need to be extended, buttons moved-- but the length of the jacket is actually very good (perfectly in line with Flusser's philosophies; makes the legs look longer)
post #14 of 22
I think the jacket looks short. That may be how it's "supposed" to look, but my instinctive reaction is that it doesn't fit you.
post #15 of 22
My two cents: I think the Jacket looks short in front only because you are wearing your pants low.  The eye is thrown off by the belt, and shirt triangle.  If you wore your pants closer to the natural waist - I think the jacket would look better proportionally.  I think this is why it looks fine in profile. Again - fix the sleeves.  I think you could easily keep the jacket with a couple alterations. I was confused by what was said about buttons also.   Enjoy, Scott PS - I like the slim fit, it looks great from the back. Shoulders and chest look good.
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