Well see heres the problem you also face as well ok, at one time i am going to say prolly the late 80s and early 1990s era, armani had some of the best well cut double breasted and single breasted suits money could buy for an off the rack suit, it kind of reminds me what the early version of the mercedes benz s class used to look like, but ok today its a diffrent time era and a diffrent world now days, now day they arent cut the classic way anymore like they used to be, and most of the time they are fused when you purchase its a great name, and it some cases they are prolly made out of the best wool in the world and you just would not know that by looking at it, but but a rolex is like a mercedes benz s class nice to look at for the name, but not exactly the best and highest quality luxury good there is in the world, meanwhile if you do want the best and your willing to pay for the top quality, then OXXFORD would be your best bet they arent fused at all they start at about 4000 dollars and can go much higher then that they are all done by hand, they are the best quality in the world, and they can last you 20 years or more they always use a full canvas front that is put in by hand, it would be the same with just as if you were buying a patek phillipe or a rolls royce yes it does cost more but in the very end its all worth it because of the best quality diffrence, also another great italian suit maker is Brioni they are all done by hand as well, they start out about the same around 4000 dollars and can go much higher in price from their, but its up to you its your money and you get what you pay for its that simple but yes it is true ARMANI suits arent the best for quality that is true i am afraid they have a good name thats global, just not the best reputation for quality, they do on their suits typically about half or 3 quarters hand made quality i would say, but the whole thing is not bespoke tailored, also i wouldnt buy off the rack if you want a suit to fit well there is a bit of diffrence in that as well i am afraid, well good luck to ya its your money and your own decision.