I'm deciding between bespoke and MTM options for the ideal silhouette for a shorter fellow like myself (5'7" and thin). I live in the LA area. Following manton's post on elongating silhouettes a few days ago, I'm leaning toward his recommendations for a structured shoulder on the natural shoulder line, roped; high gorge; proportioned lapels; clean chest; no swell, no drape; high waist with medium waist suppression; a closely fitted skirt; SB, true three button, no vents; coat on the short side; reverse pleat trousers at the hip or slightly above. I would also add peaked lapels and a fairly traditional cloth (probably navy pinstripe). I'm also open to variations/deviations from above that make sense for my body type. I see two broad options available for me: (1) MTM, specifically Brioni which manton suggests corresponds pretty well to the description above. Specific models would be helpful. I'm also looking at Oxxford and their Salvatore model though the lapels seem a bit largish. I think they're RTW, but would Paul Stuart be a good fit as well? (2) Bespoke, specifically Kilgour since they are visiting LA beginning 10/20. Kilgour's silhouette seems to adhere pretty well to manton's description above. Is there a significant difference between their "entry level bespoke" and "full bespoke"? If I go with entry level, should I get baste fitting as well? Also, should I consider any other bespoke houses that meet the above criteria? Apart from the specific questions above, the more general question is - can I find what I want in MTM or do I really need to go bespoke? Thanks in advance.
post #1 of 13
10/20/04 at 5:05am