Dear Manton, To be completely honest, I cannot answer you. I have not seen Alan in a few years and have not a clue who is making his MTM shirts. Twenty years ago, that would have been my MTM company, Custom Shirts by Denhof (long since closed Thank God.). At the time, I supplied Alan with a set of MTM patterns which he may still be using. It was good pattern set, having combined the attributes and discarded the detriments of the German and Italian methods. At the time I also made Alan's personal shirts, and we worked together to incorporate some of the more kabbazian elements from his personal pattern into the MTM patterns.
his shirts always seem to turn out perfect: from the fit, to the detailing, to the pattern matching, to the collar. Especially the collar. Nice and high, perfect "V," the points have a beautiful shape, and (best of all) I never have to adjust my tie. I can pull it tight into the collar, and it stays there (without throttling me) all day, and without showing so much as a hint of collar band above the knot.
That's what you're paying for. The ability to make that statement about a shirt whose fabric I assume you like. No more need be said. However, as to why Alan is criticized... It's simple. Alan writes (and quite well, I might add). Not only does he write, but he actually has the temerity to express his opinion. Every time he expresses same, someone gets turned off. Express yourself frequently enough, as he has done, and you have to have made a hell of a lot of people upset. Add to that the fact that Alan's taste in clothing isn't exactly what you would call "mainstream". Nonetheless, as hundreds of posts will attest, Alan's collection of books by far outdistances Boyer, Roetzel, and anyone else in the field. Boyer provides an essential discourse. Roetzel provides a Eurocentric coffee table book. The sum of Alan's writings provide a bible for thousands of avid fans. If you like your Flusser shirts as much as you say, ignore opinions to the contrary and just enjoy.