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Hart schaffner marx

post #1 of 13
Thread Starter 
I was taking a look at the Hart Schaffner Marx web site. I haven't taken a look at their garments for some time now. My father has some pants by them, and he really likes them. Anyway, Coppley is part of HartMarx. Are HartMarx's highest-end garments made in Chicago, or are they made by Coppley or another HartMarx subsidiary in Canada? Is their Chicago site just the corporate headquarters, or does some production actually take place there?
CANVAS PADDED LAPEL You will not feel the 750 stitches or the interior canvas piece that forms each Hart Schaffner Marx suit lapel, but you will surely see the difference. As the stitches are applied, the lapel is rolled to ensure the lapel edges hug the coat front. This artistry also ensures a supple lapel roll, which adds to the beauty of the coat.
How would you describe the quality of HartMarx's best garments? Are they fully canvassed? Are the buttonholes sewn by hand? Any other relevant details you might want to mention?
post #2 of 13
I believe HSM owns Hickey Freeman, or vise versa. I have a HSM standard line suit, and a few pairs of wool trousers. As far as I know Gold Trumpeter is their top of the line, and it is decent. Fused and definitely cut sack-suitesque, they nevertheless can be found for steals often and have a lot of good, if uncreative or unique, fabrics and patterns. Only on deep discount would I personally consider the line, but that is me.
post #3 of 13
The reason you won't feel the "canvas padded lapel" is because it is not there. Completly fused garment. Coats are made in Chicago and trousers are made in Columbia, South America.
post #4 of 13
Bestmastertailor, I don't like contradicting you, but HSM's gold trumpeteer line does indeed have canvas padded lapels. The body, however, is most definitely fused, though the fusing it rather light. I got a HSM Gold Trumpeteer for $235 when I was 20 years old. It was my first "good suit" (though not my first suit), and I still love the pattern more than any of my other suits -- a steel gray in a very subtle glen plaid pattern. Though I don't love the cut -- it wasn't sack suitish, but was unvented and certainly wasn't overly stylish -- I will still wear it from time to time. HSM high end trousers are very good to buy at discount IMO. Their pleats are shallow and the fabrics pretty good. They are made in the USA, though I don't know where. I'd have a hard time recommending HSM suits if they are priced at more than $200, at least to the extent you can afford to wait for something better. With Canalis etc. available on Ebay for around $400 -- with St. Andrews, Oxxford, etc. available for $600 - 700 -- I'd say spend the extra money to get a full canvas. Trust me it is worth it, both for style, longevity, and MOST OF ALL comfort (full canvas jackets weigh about half as much, IMO). I can't speak to HSM lower ranges.
post #5 of 13
I have both a Gold Trumpeter sport coat and Studio line suit that are constructed with padded canvas lapels. Both are also fused at the lower front with very lightweight fusing. Both were also purchased at significant discount (75-80%) off retail. They are not the best garments out there, but at the right price are good value for money. The construction of Hart, Schaffner, Marx garments is not the same as those carrying other labels put out by the Hart Marx companies.
post #6 of 13
I have a gold trumpeteer m-t-m suit on my shop now that a gentleman bought at a recent local "trunk show" that need considerable alteration: The lapels are fused. A side note: If they would have ordered him a stock size 44R it would have fit him perfectly. Every pair of new HSM trousers that I have seen in my shop in the past year are made in Columbia. Actually, they are the exact same trousers as Austin Reed and Palm Beach / Brannoch / Kingsridge etc. they just sew in the label of whatever the brand the store uses. Many years ago HSM was a fine suit and had padded lapels, hand sewn buttonholes, armholes, but now HSM is nothing more than a marketing firm. That said, the "paper" they use is time tested and fits many body shapes very well with minimal alteration. "the Chevrolet of suits".
post #7 of 13
Well, my Gold Trumpeteer has canvas lapels, and the stitching is done by machine but it is not a blind stitch. I wore HSM slacks yesterday and they were "UNION MADE" in the USA. Sad to see that HSM is not maintaining such standards anymore.
post #8 of 13
I bought my first Hart Schaffner Marx suit last spring. Have worn it 5-6 times and have gotten compliments each time. I've found it to be a comfortable fit and relatively nice fabric. I got it on clearance for less than $300, and I'm kicking myself for not getting the blue windowpane I saw for the same price last time I was in that store.
post #9 of 13
I was just considering HSM MTM and they seem to be in my price range (about $800/$900) to get exactly what I want. Is there a comparable better quality suit for that price? I looked at Canali and Burberry with the features that I want but they are more expensive (about $1500 and up).
post #10 of 13
I tried on a HSM gold trumpeteer suit the other day and the shoulders had a lot of padding and the suit was kind of boxy.
post #11 of 13

I've not bought a suit in ten years, but since I'm back in sales I was considering a Hart/Marx. Are they not the quality they used to be? Are the lapels fused or not? 

post #12 of 13
From what I read Hickey Freeman is the new HSM and HSM is the new JC Penney. I have had many HSM suits in the past and recommend looking at the golden trumpeter range.
post #13 of 13
Harts best ( gold trumprter ) is half canvassed / half fused. I called and talked to one of their tec persons, last year. I have some, and if you wait and take a chance, you can pick up at half price. They used to be top drawer, but like many companies, got bought out by large conglomerate. Although many of their styles are fitted for men like me ( old fuck ), and fairly straight down, they have come out with many younger ( euro ) fitted lines, of late.
Side story -- Year and a half ago,I was passing through a Dillards, and saw a 2 tone blue w/ brown lines, slight window pane SC ( gold trumpeter ) in cashmere, that when I felt the fabric, I almost commed. but at full price I walked away. Well 2 months later I just happened to stop by 3 Dillards and there was one in the last store in my size, and marked down 50 percent, No resistance. Took to my tailer and what does it need to make it rightous -- sleeves - collar role ( always ) and a bit of let out to give it a good drape -- 120 . thought he said, ah just make it it 100 even Roger. The kicker though was , when I walked in he was opening up a bolt of fabric, for a SC he was making for a fellow ( $ 1800 ) , that when we examined , was the exact same Zegna ( sp. ) cashmere fabric. Mine 450 pus the 100. Happy camper.
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