or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Who made this suit?
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Who made this suit?

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 
I received a rather nice suit from a relative but I am unsure of its exact origins. I thought someone might recognize the codes on the inside label and be able to tell me who made it, its vintage, etc. It was purchased at Kilgore Trout in Cleveland and has their tag sewn inside along with a "mark of the world's best 100% wool etc" tag. It is a navy worsted with very thin alternating red and purple pinstripes, 2 button, fused chest, unfused lapels, ventless with two buttons on each cuff (regular fixed type). The trousers have three reverse pleats (which look good, actually). The tag inside the right jacket pocket reads: Lot 33114 Model MR30S2 P9 Cust K28000 DIV 03 UOMO MODA CUST,C Size 40R W33 BTN 3923 BUN 31 TRACK 440224 I have heard of a brand of clothing called "Uomo Moda" but there are also a couple of brands that use that name for a line of their clothing including Zegna, and it came on a Zegna hanger. However, all the Zegna clothing I've seen (though admittedly little) has had Zegna written all over the inside of it, in the waistband, etc., so I doubt it is Zegna. The other pocket has a tag with care instructions in English but with primarily Celcius temperatures specified. Thanks for any help you can offer.
post #2 of 8
We'll need more detail, I think. Uomo Moda appears to be the customer, not the maker. That brand is a jobber brand for specialty haberdashers. First and most telling, what country of origin is marked on it? 2 button design, two sleeve buttons, three reverse pleats suggests an Eighties suit, as does the 7 inch drop from chest to waist. How low are the lapel notches? The fact of a contract label suggests a large company dedicated to private label, which in turn probably means a relatively little known maker with minimal name recognition. The top "name" makers who do private label, such as Belvest, St. Andrews, and H. Freeman, are less likely to be half-canvas construction.
post #3 of 8
Thread Starter 
Okay, I didn't see this tag before, but it's Union Made in USA. The lapels are relatively normal. They don't look unusually low. The button stance, however, is a bit low. The top button (of 2) sits about 11-1/2" from the bottom hem. Upon further inspection the lapels are not "unfused", but to trick me the fusible lining is on the under-layer of fabric. I wouldn't ever have considered it to be from a top maker, so we can definitely rule out the ones you cited. I just thought it might be something interesting because the other suit I received from the same original source is tagged a Gieves & Hawkes Bespoke in an unusual mini houndstooth (Customer's own lot) but also has a Union Made in USA tag inside. (?.) Thanks for the input.
post #4 of 8
I was the external CPA for Pincus Brothers Maxwell (PBM) when they had their manufacturing plant in Philadelphia. They made all the suits for the Bill Blass label and also made a significant amount for Brooks Brothers. They have recently closed their Philadelphia operations and all garments are now produced offshore and in Mexico. Those model numbers do not sound familiar but I still have some contacts with PBM and will see if they can add input and help to answer your question.
post #5 of 8
Quote:
We'll need more detail, I think. Uomo Moda appears to be the customer, not the maker. That brand is a jobber brand for specialty haberdashers. First and most telling, what country of origin is marked on it? 2 button design, two sleeve buttons, three reverse pleats suggests an Eighties suit, as does the 7 inch drop from chest to waist. How low are the lapel notches? The fact of a contract label suggests a large company dedicated to private label, which in turn probably means a relatively little known maker with minimal name recognition. The top "name" makers who do private label, such as Belvest, St. Andrews, and H. Freeman, are less likely to be half-canvas construction.
Uomo Moda is, I believe, "men's fashion", so that's not much help in ascertaining this suit's provenance. koji
post #6 of 8
Quote:
I just thought it might be something interesting because the other suit I received from the same original source is tagged a Gieves & Hawkes Bespoke in an unusual mini houndstooth (Customer's own lot) but also has a Union Made in USA tag inside. (?.)
I'm pretty sure that either Southwick or Hickey, and I'm leaning towards the latter, made the G&H MTM. But I'm not sure that Hickey is unionized, so maybe that particular suit has a Southwick provenance.
post #7 of 8
Quote:
Quote:
I just thought it might be something interesting because the other suit I received from the same original source is tagged a Gieves & Hawkes Bespoke in an unusual mini houndstooth (Customer's own lot) but also has a Union Made in USA tag inside. (?.)
If my memory serves me correctly, that is not Gieves and Hawkes MTM or bespoke. A poster on askandy has pointed out that Gieves' US licensee sold a slightly-higher line of Gieves and  Hawkes RTW under the "Bespoke" subtitle in the 1980s. These were not bespoke. It was simply a way to indicate higher quality. Unfortunately, just as few people then as now know what bespoke is. This is why your "Gieves and Hawkes Bespoke" has a "Union Made in the US" label. There is no union of bespoke tailors or cutters, just as there is no union of Iron Chefs. I will not allow it. That is why I brought in that scab Morimoto.
post #8 of 8
Thread Starter 
Kaga-san, I agree that it is probably not a bespoke garment. It has non-working sleeve buttons and fits basically like RTW, although the construction quality is considerably better than most RTW. It at least has canvassed lapels and chest. Anyway when I get a camera I will post pics for consideration.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Who made this suit?