Suit sizing advice

Hey guys, I just joined this forum after lurking for a while. I have a question in regards to suit sizing. I've tried on a lot of different sizes (106/44L, 102/42L, 54/44, 54/42) and none of them seem to fit really well. The jacket is always either too tight at the shoulder area or too loose around the waist which is due to me having broad shoulders and only a 31-32 inches waist. I've been to quite a few higher end stores and most of them said the only option is pretty much having the suits tailored.

I also have measurements if that would help. Is there any brand that offers suits that would fit people with builds like mine or is tailoring indeed my only option?

I am sorry if this is an obvious question but I would appreciate any advice from you guys.

Thank you!

Let's start with some basic concepts---99% of men will need their OtR jackets altered. A RtW garment is made for the lowest common denominator at each sizing point---e.g., The sleeves are the longest that most men will need, with the understanding that men with shorter arms will have the sleeves shortened. Thus, getting 'alterations'' is an essential first step when you purchase a suit, and it should be expected. 'Tailoring is a bit more of an amorphous concept, but generally refers to in-depth adjustments to the suit, and CAN be necessary for some body shapes. But again, this CAN be normal and necessary. It's not something to shy away from, it's just reality for some body types (which yours may or may not be.)
Other types of 'tailoring' work involved MtM or bespoke work, but generally you should be sure that OtR isn't going to work before trying these other options.
The correct jacket size is measured by the fit in the shoulders and chest. For an OtR suit, other improperly fitting areas are altered once those two crucial areas are correct. Can you post pictures of you in a suit that fits in the shoulders and chest?
Another important point---jackets aren't necessarily supposed to fully follow your silluehette. A bit of waist suppression is fine, but you don't necessarily want to create an hourglass figure, which can appear feminine. Some styles (ivy/trade) are actually designed around sack suits, which don't have waist suppression and are designed with straight sides.
I'm interested to see how an OtR suit meets your understanding of improper fit.

Most American-sized jackets will have a drop 6. Some European jackets will be a drop 7. The drop is the difference between the chest measurement and the waist measurement. IE: If you're a 44" chest, your average guy will have a 38" waist.

Clearly, if you're trying on 42-44" jackets, with a waist of 31-32", your drop is around 10". That's pretty far outside the typical range of any OTR. And it might be beyond what will work even if you get a jacket altered. Plus, buying a suit with a pair of trousers included with the jacket will be problematic as you won't be able to reduce the waist enough to fit you without the back pockets hitting each other.

You'll need to get almost anything you buy off the rack tailored. But it's pretty high odds you'll need to find a custom tailor that can fit you properly. My experience with guys similar in build to you with high drops is that most OTR jackets don't tend to look good on them. The patterns for the jackets just aren't made with that body type in mind.



thesilentist said:

Clearly, if you're trying on 42-44" jackets, with a waist of 31-32", your drop is around 10". That's pretty far outside the typical range of any OTR.

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You're right, and of course, where the trousers are worn will affect the situation. 10" is a large difference...trousers at the natural waist will be sized differently than low rise trousers worn on the hips.

Dior Homme has a realistic chance of requiring little or no alterations. It's also unrealistic to most people's budgets. Suit separates from, for example, Brooks Brothers might work. Or MTM or bespoke, measured in person by the establishment doing the work. Trying to alter a regular suit to fit that extreme shape will require an expensive job from an above-average, possibly hard-to-find tailor, and even then the end result might not look good.