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stryfe

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I first wanted to say that I think that this is a great forum. I've been reading these posts for the past year and virtually everything that I know about clothes comes from this forum. Thanks to people like Steve B., A Harris, LA Guy, Kai, and yes, even marc 39 and a host of others.

My question has already been asked a 1,000 times on this forum already but hopefully anybody can answer this specifically for me. I'm a little over a year out of college and was interested in buying my first bespoke suit. The style I love most over others is the Neapolitan (Kiton and most especially Attolini). I wanted spend something in the area of $4000(super120s or 150). I know that Kiton makes bespoke but it sounds as if they are a little out of my price range and from what I gather of previous posts there isn't another high quality Neapolitan tailor to be found in NYC (which kind of suprises me).

So my questions are:
1.Is there any high quality(i.e. Kiton) Neapolitan tailors in NYC?
2.If not, I've heard many good things about Raphael and Nino Corvato on this forum and on others. Would they cut the suit Neapolitan style or would they only stick to their house style?
3.Does Domenico Vacca make bespoke? I was reading in a departures.com article and it seems that it was being implied. If so, has anybody tried them?
 

DSM

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How would you define the "house style" of Rapheal and Nino Corvato?
 

stryfe

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From what I know of Raphael there is less of of a drape and does not have the same soft shouldered look of a Neapolitan. As for Cravati I don't know much about him except that he comes recommended.
 

Manton

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DSM

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So who in New York would be most similar to the soft silhouette of A&S?
 

Manton

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DSM

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I don't mean to defer from stryfe's post, but the fit I like is loose & comfotable.

Based on such a fit, the silhoutte I prefer is one of proportion of all the parts. I completely dislike the tight, well-defined Italian fit just as I dislike tight fitting shirts.

Based upon what I just said, and as I am tall & on the slimmer side (6'1 and 175 pounds), you would still recommend Flusser as my best bet in NYC?

And whose "House style" of the English tailors (other than Huntsman and A&S) would best meet my needs?
 

tjmaglio

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Recently I went to Domenico Vacca and inquired about their services. I was told that their suits are made by Attolini and you only receive one fitting which is unacceptable especially when their stratospheric prices are taken into account. If you're interested in learning about hand made clothing, join the London Lounge. There is also anEast Coast chapter of the LL for those living near NYC and Boston. There are plans in the works to bring artisans from around the world to NYC or Boston for the purpose of teaching about their trade and for works to be commissioned by members. Regards, Tom
 

Manton

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DSM

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You state that Poole's "house style" would be compatible with my needs--so I have one further question in veiw of the fact that we're talking about English tailors here.

I like the bottom on my trousers to have a width of about 9 1/2 inches, or roughly 2/3 the size of my feet when I have shoes on. I dislike the traditional English trouser width that is small/narrow--and makes my feet appear larger. I assume that my desire for a trouser bottom of such width would be compaitable with A & S, but likewise with Poole?
 

Manton

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jester

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I've heard various good things about Poole. But some years ago, when I went to buy my first Savile Row suit, Poole was one of the places I went in to, and they were actively rude about the quality of the suit I was wearing (it was a Paul Stuart, not the greatest suit ever made but hardly worthy of such derision). I was so turned off I scratched them off my list.
 

Manton

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soccemel

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I assume A&S is Addison and Steele? If not (or if so, I suppose), does anyone have any information about them?
 

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