On Tie Knots and Shirt Collars

I'm not sure I've ever seen you post a picture, Sarto. This is a nice start.



TweedyProf said:

@Murlsquirl
  @Cleav
 

Gents, when you have a moment, perhaps we should change the title of the thread to "On Tie Knots and Shirt Collars"

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Done. Been swarmed with family and haven't been on the forum in days, but will contribute as soon as I catch up.

Here is today...tie is a 9cm grenadine from Hober and shirt is an oxford cloth from Proper Clcth with their Roma spread collar.

Hober knot looks very nice. The IG picture shows proportions a bit less skewed than in this close up picture, but this gives a sense of the proportions: good collar height, knot substantial without being too large, a gentle FIH taper, against wide lapels.

sugarbutch said:

I'm not sure I've ever seen you post a picture, Sarto. This is a nice start.

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Never liked to show off etc. Even is hard to believe taking as count some of my (older) posts, I believe on the deepest humility, so it goes against showing off on WAYWT etc. Also turned too old for that.

I prefer to have votes on my helping others posts than on others that like my good or bad exterior shape.

TweedyProf said:

Pictures!

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Sorry it took me some time and sorry for the bad lighting which doesnt do justice to the fabrics

here is the deep V i was talking about with and withour necktie






and a close up




Paris

Well now I'm glad I decided to visit SF today while having a small break and a coffee. Great thread - I personally feel very passionate (obsessed) for nice knots.

Regarding the double dimple, I think it works great in many type of settings and using many kinds of ties, but you need to tie it so that the middle part and the sides have a pleasing volume to them. Also, I must say triple (or more) dimple is also very beautiful when done on a quality tie.

Uunottaja said:

Well now I'm glad I decided to visit SF today while having a small break and a coffee. Great thread - I personally feel very passionate (obsessed) for nice knots.

Regarding the double dimple, I think it works great in many type of settings and using many kinds of ties, but you need to tie it so that the middle part and the sides have a pleasing volume to them. Also, I must say triple (or more) dimple is also very beautiful when done on a quality tie.

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please contribute some pictures which I know you have. Will be useful.

I thought these were nice collars and had other pleasing features. Denim shirt and proportional knots in FIH

Those look like hidden BD's. Can anyone confirm or deny? I've been meaning to give this type of collar a try.

You can see the button in the second pic on the right side under the collar. My standard collar is made from a Borrelli button down base and without stays, a soft infused interlining, high collar and long points, you can get a similar effect, a nice curve to the collar.

@TweedyProf
Could you please educate us about the benefits of a tall collar and why some prefer it? Does it have something to with how the tie hangs?

cakv said:

@TweedyProf
Could you please educate us about the benefits of a tall collar and why some prefer it? Does it have something to with how the tie hangs?

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Others are welcome to weigh in.

I suppose the main issue concerns the length of your neck. Those with longer necks benefit from a higher collar, but if you have a shorter neck, then a high collar can make you look like you are in a neck brace. Here's someone in need of a higher collar due to a long neck:



The collar is just wimpy and displeasing for other reasons too.

This is a good illustration of balance:



Sander wears a higher collar than Braddock but both are substantial in height, not leaving too much of the neck visible. Both shirt collars look very nice (compare Garfield's collar above to Sander's, as both have long slender necks).

A "rule" is just below the adam's apple, but really, go for something aesthetically pleasing.

Here's Lagerfeld before the neck brace look you can see on him in internet pics. This is certainly as high if not higher than one probably wants to go to keep an aesthetically pleasing height.





A high collar also just looks a bit more formal, in my eyes, and well put together.

There's another "rule" around that you should have only 1/4 inch showing, something similar to the amount of cuff. Nonsense. This sort of numerical rule baiting is silly.

So, go as high as you can go, keeping balance. It creates a nice space for the tie, and with a reasonable spread, creates opportunities for showcasing that perfect tie and tie knot.

@sugarbutch @Andy57 @EFV @Mr. Six and any others

If you wouldn't mind discussing the evolution of your view on shirt collars. I know some of you have gone with different MTM makers and am curious as to what motivated some of those changes or just your thoughts.

Anyone is welcome to weigh in on the themes in this thread.

Order your neckties from David Hober