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So, the topic of nice knots comes up enough that I thought I would write a short blurb and invite comments and pictures. Everyone wants a pleasing knot so how can one achieve that? Well, it’s not magic, but as with most things we discuss here, a little knowledge might go a long way.
Edit: Bonus...lots of pictures of nice ties.
First, please consider your shirt collar first (a topic for a different entry). A ****** collar will not be aided by a beautiful knot. The collar provides the space for the knot to fill in an aesthetically pleasing way, so if you have a crap collar, no knot will save you.
Second, various features go into a pleasing knot
1. Fabric thickness and type. Heavy tweed fabrics will tie big knots and wool, IMO, tends to get eaten by a knot so I suspect, all things being equal, equal weight wool versus silk leads to unequal knots (this is partly why it’s ok for a wool tie to be a bit longer).
2. The width of the tie at the knotting point. Presumably, as the tie gets wider at the blade, in generally, the knot will be larger. In bespoke, there are ways to control for this. For my first bespoke tie, I was concerned about a wool tie being too bulky, so Cappelli had it cut a bit narrower at the knotting point than my other ties (an advantage of bespoke).
3. Interlining: Obviously, whether there is an interlining and what type, quality and quantity will matter. I think some interlining is always desired, to give the tie some bones and to help hold the knot in place.
4. The type of knot: Four in hand, a pleasing simple knot. Double four in hand if you find yourself with a RTW tie that ties small knots.
5. The skill of the person knotting: it is possible to tie crappy knots with the most beautiful of ties. Practice, practice, practice.
I'm sure there are other factors that escape me at the moment.
Most quality RTW ties should tie decent knots. I’ve had good luck with 8cm Drake’s, with the two Vandas that I have owned, and of course, with bespoke ties from Cappelli. The Hober thread is full of pictures of lovely knots as well.
So, put points 1 and 2 together, and there’s an interesting variation that we might discuss further, the interaction between collar and knot. And of course, what is too large of a knot for someone is perfect, even too small, for another.
Ok, you can now post pictures of your favorite knots by members here, with comments. Let me also ask David Hober to join in if he wishes, always a source of wisdom and knowledge. @Sam Hober
Some of my own knots with comments
1. Tie Your Tie, heavy tweed, knots large. 9cm. I would have preferred this tie to be cut narrower or perhaps with less of an interlining to accommodate the thickness and weight of the fabric. It's substantial but charming for that reason, given that it's so tweedy.
2. Very chalky madder from Cappelli, which because it's actually a little hard to tie, knots larger than other silk (8.5cm). The spread collar here is probably a positive, given the knot. I might ask Patrizio to cut such madders a bit narrower while keeping blade at 8.5cm I find this true of shantung as well.
3. The Cappelli mentioned earlier, cut thinner at the knotting point, so smaller than your average tie. Probably wasn't necessary for this material, a incredibly soft cashmere. A nice taper to the knot. 8.5 cm
4. Turnbull and Asser tie, pleasing silk knot. 9cm I believe
5. Soft wool challis that ties a lovely tapered knot (Cappelli): 8.5cm
6. Drake's shantung 8cm. Knot is thick, with less taper (cf. above challis)
7. Drake's wool 8cm (I find my Drake's wool to not taper at the knot as sharply as my Cappelli wool ties, so perhaps interlining or how the ties are cut...wool here is soft and fuzzy).
Edit: Bonus...lots of pictures of nice ties.
First, please consider your shirt collar first (a topic for a different entry). A ****** collar will not be aided by a beautiful knot. The collar provides the space for the knot to fill in an aesthetically pleasing way, so if you have a crap collar, no knot will save you.
Second, various features go into a pleasing knot
1. Fabric thickness and type. Heavy tweed fabrics will tie big knots and wool, IMO, tends to get eaten by a knot so I suspect, all things being equal, equal weight wool versus silk leads to unequal knots (this is partly why it’s ok for a wool tie to be a bit longer).
2. The width of the tie at the knotting point. Presumably, as the tie gets wider at the blade, in generally, the knot will be larger. In bespoke, there are ways to control for this. For my first bespoke tie, I was concerned about a wool tie being too bulky, so Cappelli had it cut a bit narrower at the knotting point than my other ties (an advantage of bespoke).
3. Interlining: Obviously, whether there is an interlining and what type, quality and quantity will matter. I think some interlining is always desired, to give the tie some bones and to help hold the knot in place.
4. The type of knot: Four in hand, a pleasing simple knot. Double four in hand if you find yourself with a RTW tie that ties small knots.
5. The skill of the person knotting: it is possible to tie crappy knots with the most beautiful of ties. Practice, practice, practice.
I'm sure there are other factors that escape me at the moment.
Most quality RTW ties should tie decent knots. I’ve had good luck with 8cm Drake’s, with the two Vandas that I have owned, and of course, with bespoke ties from Cappelli. The Hober thread is full of pictures of lovely knots as well.
So, put points 1 and 2 together, and there’s an interesting variation that we might discuss further, the interaction between collar and knot. And of course, what is too large of a knot for someone is perfect, even too small, for another.
Ok, you can now post pictures of your favorite knots by members here, with comments. Let me also ask David Hober to join in if he wishes, always a source of wisdom and knowledge. @Sam Hober
Some of my own knots with comments
1. Tie Your Tie, heavy tweed, knots large. 9cm. I would have preferred this tie to be cut narrower or perhaps with less of an interlining to accommodate the thickness and weight of the fabric. It's substantial but charming for that reason, given that it's so tweedy.
2. Very chalky madder from Cappelli, which because it's actually a little hard to tie, knots larger than other silk (8.5cm). The spread collar here is probably a positive, given the knot. I might ask Patrizio to cut such madders a bit narrower while keeping blade at 8.5cm I find this true of shantung as well.
3. The Cappelli mentioned earlier, cut thinner at the knotting point, so smaller than your average tie. Probably wasn't necessary for this material, a incredibly soft cashmere. A nice taper to the knot. 8.5 cm
4. Turnbull and Asser tie, pleasing silk knot. 9cm I believe
5. Soft wool challis that ties a lovely tapered knot (Cappelli): 8.5cm
6. Drake's shantung 8cm. Knot is thick, with less taper (cf. above challis)
7. Drake's wool 8cm (I find my Drake's wool to not taper at the knot as sharply as my Cappelli wool ties, so perhaps interlining or how the ties are cut...wool here is soft and fuzzy).
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