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Pleats vs flat

post #1 of 32
Thread Starter 
If flat front is the ONLY choice, why do noted designers such as Mr. Armani use pleats??   Frankly, my one flat front suit by Hugo Boss is by far my least favorite, and it is the standard 3 button, no cuff, flat front.  All my others are Ralph Lauren or Paul Stuart and have nice fat cuffs and pleats.  Sorry queer eye, I have to remain Old Skool.   I appreciate a '60 vintage look with the flat fronts.  Get this fall's Ralph Laurent '60's thowbacks though - all Pleats and cuffs... http://www.polo.com/product....mg]
post #2 of 32
Flat fronts have never been the 'only' choice. Pleats are certainly part of traditional suits and have a place there - unless the jacket is cut very close and fits perfectly, flat fronts look out of place. For casual wear, pleats look out of place. Pleats and cuffs are more business wear, flat fronts with no cuffs are for the ends of the spectrum - very formal or very casual, depending on cut and frabric choice. My $0.02
post #3 of 32
I agree that pleats look goofy on casual wear but their use on a business suit should be an issue of fit and function more than appearance. Some body types and trouser cuts need pleats while some do fine without. The multi-pleated abominations of some designers notwithstanding, pleats can be tastefully done to provide better freedom of movement and comfort while maintaining or adding to the appearance of the suit.
post #4 of 32
I disagree. I love flat fronted pants. Its looks sleek if you have fit body. It also create 'youthful' look. Now .. Armani does both. All of my Armani trousers and suit pants been flat fronted .. honestly, I cannot imagine me wearing pleated Armani trousers. However, When it comes to suits, pleats do not matter much for me since they usually do not show when wearing jacket. But if I do MTM or bespoke suit, I am definetly going for flat fronted pants.
post #5 of 32
I think the Fab 5 is talking primarily about casual wear when they bemoan pleats, seeing as how it is rare for them to have a makeover that wears suits or even dress pants with any sort of frequency. It has been my understanding that khakis are an adoption of a military style pant that was plain-front in origin. Regardless of where the style came from, I think that pleats on casual pants are very out of place, but I don't think dress pants necessarily need them. I prefer the sleeker plain-front look because I am tall and slim.
post #6 of 32
Quote:
I prefer the sleeker plain-front look because I am tall and slim.
I thought tall and slim guys 'look better' with pleated pants with cuffs.
post #7 of 32
i prefer flat fronts myself but i think they only good on fit people...
post #8 of 32
Quote:
Frankly, my one flat front suit by Hugo Boss is by far my least favorite, and it is the standard 3 button, no cuff, flat front. All my others are Ralph Lauren or Paul Stuart and have nice fat cuffs and pleats. Sorry queer eye, I have to remain Old Skool.
That's because your Hugo Boss suit is probably the worst constructed and styled of the three. If you are in good shape, try on a Costume National or Helmut Lang suit, of Dolce Gabbana if you like a slightly exaggerated, longer silhouette, and you'll be instantly converted to flat fronts. Then put on a (made for the American market) Attolini suit, with double pleated pants. You'll be all confused. It would afford me a whole 5 minutes of fun. Besides that, your post is confusing. You don't like pleats. Then you do? Are you a regular on the GQ forum? While I'm on the subject... 1) Please use proper diction and grammar in your posts unless it is evident that you are not doing so on purpose, and for a purpose. 2) It was cool for about 5 minutes to write "Old Skool", back in the early nineties, and then only if you are actually a graffiti artist. These days, I cringe even as I write "Old School" correctly. Seriously now, boy.
post #9 of 32
Hahahaha. All my pants are flat-front. I can't stand it otherwise, unless it is a very, very minor pleat. I don't like the puffy look that you get from pleats, I like my suits to fit as angularly as possible. For cuffs, I prefer no cuffs but have no problem with cuffed pants.
post #10 of 32
I get my pants made with shallow (think half an inch) single pleats, because flat-fronts make it impossible for me to use my pockets without creating unslightly bulges. I'm thinking about making them deeper, about a full inch this time around. I should get a thinner wallet.
post #11 of 32
Quote:
Quote:
(Drew @ 14 Oct. 2004, 1:09) I prefer the sleeker plain-front look because I am tall and slim.
I thought tall and slim guys 'look better' with pleated pants with cuffs.
I did not word that correctly. I meant to say that I am tall and slim but still prefer plain-front.
post #12 of 32
LA Guy, unless you're in the UK or Canada, the comma goes inside the quotation marks. I'm firmly in the flat-front camp as well. I finally got rid of all my old pleated khakis and wool slacks a few months ago.
post #13 of 32
Pleats are there for more than a century. I will not take away them. They are best if you wear high waist trouser, and I think it is a refined solution. About cuffs: they were born as sport and informal. The more you go toward formal wear, they will disappear. You will not have them on tuxedo or morning dress suit.
post #14 of 32
Quote:
Pleats are there for more than a century. I will not take away them. They are best if you wear high waist trouser, and I think it is a refined solution. About cuffs: they were born as sport and informal. The more you go toward formal wear, they will disappear. You will not have them on tuxedo or morning dress suit.
I certainly agree that pleats are best on a high-waisted trouser. I take both pleats (I prefer forward to reverse) and flat-front. I think if you are moderately fit, either will look good. Consider a lot of the old Hitchcock films (esp. his minor works) and you'll get an idea of how elegant the pleated trouser can be.
post #15 of 32
Quote:
LA Guy, unless you're in the UK or Canada, the comma goes inside the quotation marks.
I'm a Canadian. I also try to remember to spell "color", "colour".
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