I became interested in clothing in 1959, when I had a part-time job at a campus shop in New Orleans. We sold traditional natural shoulder ivy league clothing. (It became my favorite and it still is. I still wear some sack suits and I think they look o.k.; I am not fat-5' 11" and 170lbs. I like Savile Row as much, however). The year after I started college, 1960, a two year fad began for some people; so-called "Continental" suits; supposedly of Italian or French design. They came in iridescent, nubby silks; sometimes in lime green or purple. They were extremely narrow in lapels, leg width, shoulders, everything. Think early Beetles. Right then, I got a bad taste in my mouth for Italian. My tastes haven't changed much, though I do like some Isaia and Kiton. That is all the Italian that I like, however. Brioni is way over-rated IMO, and I am not impressed by Zenga. I have had no experience with Attolini, but am not awed by Borelli (but should be, for the prices). I think Versace, D&G, Prada and Gucci are the perfect clothes for the Hollywood types; all show (but dreadful "show," IMO) and no substance (poor quality, IMO). One thing that has not been mentioned about traditional natural shoulder ivy league clothing is that it is loved by the old-money crowd, the husbands of junior leaguers. I do not want to sound like a snob, but in my school days, 1959-1965, there seemed to be three types of college and law school students that I came across, satorically speaking. There were the old-money, high society, "old South" types, all of whom seemed to wear traditional natural shoulder ivy league clothing. There were the more middle-class "Yankees," who sometimes enrolled in Southern colleges (the sons of wealthier Northern families did not come south to go to school). The ones whom we got usually wore the "Continental" suits and clothing mentioned above; think John Travolta in "Saturday Night Fever." Then, there were the "Farmers," actually Cajuns, for those of at Tulane. They sort of dressed like farmers, actually. I guess all of these experiences impressed me at an early age and contributed toward my life-long prejudice against Italian clothing; not only from a style standpoint, but also from a snobbish "class" standpoint. I do try to be open-minded, but even while thinking that way, I honestly think that most of the Italian stuff is either bizarre and dreadful looking or is way over-priced for the quality. Norman Hilton made the best traditional natural shoulder ivy league clothing ever made and it cost 1/3-1/2 as much as Kiton. No one has replaced it; Martin Greenfield comes closest, but it is not very close. I love fine English shoes and Alden; I am not generally impressed by Italian shoes; I think 95% of them are weird.