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Explain what defines this fitting style

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 

Hi! So, I am trying to become better at describing different suit fits. I work in a place where we have very different styles. 

I have many customers requesting a "Tom Ford" fit, and while we do have the lapels size etc, we don't have the proper fit.

What defines this typical Tom Ford fit? I will attach an image.

Some people would say that this fits Tom Ford horribly and its too tight in the waist - but I've heard him saying that a suppressed waist lose you 5 pounds.



Kind regards

post #2 of 11
Tell them to go to Tom Ford then.
post #3 of 11
There is more to TF then suppressed waist. When I tried it made me look very intimidating (I am pretty tall...). So much that I decided it is not aligned with my character - nor my wallet for that matter smile.gif
post #4 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post

Tell them to go to Tom Ford then.

Thanks for replying!
post #5 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gs77 View Post

There is more to TF then suppressed waist. When I tried it made me look very intimidating (I am pretty tall...). So much that I decided it is not aligned with my character - nor my wallet for that matter smile.gif

Thanks gs77, can you explain to me how its special? From a tailoring perspective. I only notice the waist
post #6 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Simone1 View Post

Thanks gs77, can you explain to me how its special? From a tailoring perspective. I only notice the waist

I am not a tailor. David Reeves above is.
I think TF jacket follows some of the British tailoring school of thought and tradition in that suit should give impression of power and masculinity - so nothing that TF invented really.

Again, not a tailor, but style wise, there are broader and heavily padded shoulders and structured chest, wide and peaked lapels all make shoulders appear broader, there is something about a choice of buttoning point (can't put my finger on it, but it accentuates waist suppression), longer jacket and higher rise pants makes one look taller, pockets are larger then normal, plus ticket pocket align with wider lapels (I guess)...
post #7 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gs77 View Post

I am not a tailor. David Reeves above is.
I think TF jacket follows some of the British tailoring school of thought and tradition in that suit should give impression of power and masculinity - so nothing that TF invented really.

Again, not a tailor, but style wise, there are broader and heavily padded shoulders and structured chest, wide and peaked lapels all make shoulders appear broader, there is something about a choice of buttoning point (can't put my finger on it, but it accentuates waist suppression), longer jacket and higher rise pants makes one look taller, pockets are larger then normal, plus ticket pocket align with wider lapels (I guess)...

Thank you so much! It does make sense. I am trying to understand how tailoring can do something good/bad for each body type etc.

It really helped that you put some words to it. Thanks again
post #8 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by gs77 View Post

I am not a tailor. David Reeves above is.
I think TF jacket follows some of the British tailoring school of thought and tradition in that suit should give impression of power and masculinity - so nothing that TF invented really.

Again, not a tailor, but style wise, there are broader and heavily padded shoulders and structured chest, wide and peaked lapels all make shoulders appear broader, there is something about a choice of buttoning point (can't put my finger on it, but it accentuates waist suppression), longer jacket and higher rise pants makes one look taller, pockets are larger then normal, plus ticket pocket align with wider lapels (I guess)...

Ill help out a little bit with the buttoning point, we usually go for a higher waist above the gut this creates the illusion of a slimmer waist or indeed "a waist".

I would also say that English shoulders are not heavily padded except when they are in Hong Kong.
post #9 of 11
Thread Starter 

Thank you for your input Mr. Reeves, it's nice to have a professional comment on the subject.

You might not find the style flattering at all, but may I ask you: What body type is best for this style of tailoring?

I have seen several actors like Gabriel Macht from Suits, Daniel Craig from James Bond etc. wear Tom Ford, and to me it looks great, but obviously these are fit gentlemen. 
Would it be abysmal for someone on the heavier side, because the buttoning point is on a higher waist? 

Thanks again!

post #10 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Simone1 View Post

Thank you for your input Mr. Reeves, it's nice to have a professional comment on the subject.



You might not find the style flattering at all, but may I ask you: What body type is best for this style of tailoring?


I have seen several actors like Gabriel Macht from Suits, Daniel Craig from James Bond etc. wear Tom Ford, and to me it looks great, but obviously these are fit gentlemen. 

Would it be abysmal for someone on the heavier side, because the buttoning point is on a higher waist? 


Thanks again!

Do you work in a menswear store or custom tailor? I was just picking up on you saying customers asking for a Tom Ford cut.

Well I am very biased because I'm a strong proponent of the style but I think it looks very good on an older or heavier set man it's a style made to flatter, on a young or fit man it should look incredible if the "raw material is already good".

The hair and beard I don't think were terribly successful in this shoot but I made up this suit recently, Brendon is 6.2 size 38 with a true 30 waist, I think in terms of an "English" style of tailoring this is a pretty textbook fit and style with maybe a dash of the 70s (which again is rather TF) I'll try to dig out some pictures of the coat closed tomorrow if I have time.



I've seen Tom Ford looking much better in terms of fit. usually his suits are tailored very close and if he had a bad week I could see his suits looking rather too snug like it does in the OP. Maybe he just had a curry?

Having said that on a traditional Savile Row client the suits always look a bit snug! I think it's the good living that does it, it certainly does for me.
post #11 of 11
Thread Starter 

I am a young guy who works in a fashion store, we sell multiple fashion brands like Hugo Boss etc. Not super high quality, but the average RTW suit I'd say.

I am also personally interested in getting a fit like Tom Ford, I just don't have the budget to shop his brand, so I am looking into other options.

I think the suit on the photo is absolutely incredible. I love how it creates such a masculine figure. Amazing!

I recently shopped a suit, which has some design similarities to the Tom Ford suit I really love, and I tried to compare my fit to his on the OP picture. I thought this was "How it was supposed to look". I admit it's probably a bit too snug on me then, and I need to get rid of a few kilos before it's great.

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