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Should I keep this Zegna jacket and can it be tailored to fit?

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 
I bought this discount Zegna black/white check wool/silk/cashmere jacket today for £80. Unusually, it doesn't seem too bad a fit across the shoulders but would need some waist suppression (perhaps as much as two inches) Normally, I have the opposite problem (and this jacket is labelled a drop 7!). It is a little big on the chest but the structure seems to allow it to drape nicely (and it might be much better with a sweater beneath). Anyway, could I invite some critical opinion on the attractiveness/ugliness of the jacket and the fit issues?






Edited by Aloysius16 - 9/23/16 at 11:56am
post #2 of 7
Because it's a thicker fabric, it's hard to say for sure. From what I can tell the chest is a little big and the shoulders might also be. Here's what would most likely need to be done to cut it down:

  • center seam taken in - this is never ideal, but it's the only way to make the shoulders a little closer and take out the overall chest circumference, though it can mess with the balance of front/back. Also necessary to take in excess fabric from shoulder blades and back
  • side seams take in through armhole - When it's significantly big, you have to run the side seam through the armhole to avoid a sharp hourglass shape at the armhole
  • taper sleeves - once everything else is taken in, the sleeves will look proportionately too large


All total, you'd be looking at maybe $350-500 in the US. Not sure what the going rate is in the UK, but I doubt it's less. Chances are you won't be 100% happy with the result either, as there is only so much that can be done with cut fabric (in particular you can't make an armhole smaller with rotating the sleeves in a funny way).

A side note: look inside the jacket for the sizing info and see if it has someone's name. This smells like a returned custom order on account of it's portly cut.
post #3 of 7
Thread Starter 
Thanks so much for your detailed reply. The only name on the labelling is 'Jesus', but I believe that to be the name of the retailer in Barcelona rather than the holy mtm recipient! I will probably take this to a tailor to see what they think. My view is affected by the fact that almost all jackets on me have shoulder wrinkling and divots for me due to sloping, rounded and (due to a back injury) uneven shoulders. This one is actually pretty good in that respect. I think the main issue is the extent to which I need to alter the jacket higher than the mid-waist, which will be more complex and costlyI imagine. Here are some photos from a higher angle, and of the back.



post #4 of 7
No problem, hope it works out.

I thought Jesus was a carpenter?

I too have sloped shoulders and this only exacerbates any oversized chest issues. Have them take their time to pin it and then add up the price. In this case pinning will nearly mimic anything they might adjust short of taking the sleeves off, which I strongly discourage.
post #5 of 7
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by EzraPaul View Post

I too have sloped shoulders and this only exacerbates any oversized chest issues.

I often find jackets to be tight or OK at the back but to have excess fabric around chest and armpit, often causing at unsightly 'buckling' in this area. Whilst somewhat loose in this area, this Zegna at least does not do that.
post #6 of 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aloysius16 View Post

I often find jackets to be tight or OK at the back but to have excess fabric around chest and armpit, often causing at unsightly 'buckling' in this area. Whilst somewhat loose in this area, this Zegna at least does not do that.

This is almost definitely due to posture. You're shoulders are probably rolled forward or you have a rounded back from hunching. Put a jacket on that is too tight in the back and roll your shoulders back and I bet you can make the problem go away. This can be caused by all sorts of things. Bench pressing without an equal amount of upper back work, sitting at a computer, etc.
post #7 of 7
Thread Starter 
Yes, pretty sure it's my posture.
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