or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Fabrics for a black suit for summer/Central America
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Fabrics for a black suit for summer/Central America

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 

In Central America, weddings & funerals both require black suits.  I'd be grateful for input from the Forum: how do you construct the ultimate black suit for a humid/tropical climate?  What fabrics do you recommend for the suit?  

post #2 of 11
A silk and linen blend of around 50/50 composition (maybe from Loro Piana or Dormeuil), unlined trousers, half line the jacket. Cotton and linen shirt and a cotton and linen or silk and linen tie.
post #3 of 11
Thread Starter 

Thanks, Mr Reeves!

Any thoughts on fresco wool?  Some of what I've read suggests that's the best way to go.

"Half-line the jacket"--I've seen some suggestions of leaving the jacket unlined, but that sounded more than a little bold.  What do you recommend for the lining? Bemberg?

post #4 of 11

Why do you consider unlined bold? The fact is that lining material is tightly woven and therefore much less breathable than whichever tropical fabric you select for the shell.

post #5 of 11
Thread Starter 
Hmm. Perhaps lack of personal experience! Can't deny that it sounds logical for Central America, although I don't remember noticing it.

If you had to line a suit for a tropical climate, what would you recommend?
post #6 of 11

Supposedly ermazine is cooler than Bemberg. I never noticed a difference. 

 

I read once somewhere that linen was historically used (apparently that where the word "lining" comes from?). NO idea if this is true or myth. It would certainly be a lot cooler than any lining fabric used today (although i'm not sure if you could find a tailor who could do this).

 

And just FYI, lining is not supposed to be "noticed." It's on the inside, like people wouldn't notice what color boxers or undershirt youre wearing.

post #7 of 11
Thread Starter 

Well, I have to say, you've really got me thinking.  I've never owned a suit w/o a lining, and I suppose I just assumed that a suit w/o a lining by definition would be too casual for a wedding or a funeral.  But it's certainly a logical idea, and weddings in Managua (90 degrees/stifling humidity + social custom that the jacket will actually be on for most of the night) make it an appealing idea as well.

 

Any preferences for the jacket fabric itself?  I'm looking up the references suggested Mr Reeves re: silk/linen blend (Loro Piana/Dormeuil).

 

Thanks again for your suggestions. :)

post #8 of 11

Silk/linen is good. So is wool/linen. Keep the percentage of linen under control if you don't want too much wrinkling. Fresco would be ideal if you want to stick to 100% wool. "Tropical" wool comes in all grades, so you'd want to be careful if that's where you're going.

 

And no, lining has nothing to do with formality. I believe traditionally suits were made half-lined. In your case, I would say definitely half-lined or less: having a tightly woven layer of lining defeats the purpose of a summer fabric. And, as always, humidity is more of a killer than heat, so breathability ranks just above heat conductance in the fabric selection criteria.

post #9 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by GrenfellHunt View Post

Thanks, Mr Reeves!
Any thoughts on fresco wool?  Some of what I've read suggests that's the best way to go.
"Half-line the jacket"--I've seen some suggestions of leaving the jacket unlined, but that sounded more than a little bold.  What do you recommend for the lining? Bemberg?

Being half lined will make no real difference to the look of the suit, you can still style it formally and sharp or go more louche and softer looking with the tailoring. Fresco is well liked online and I am liking it a lot more (I did an MTO run of fresco suits at the start of the summer) but I do not think it cuts it in the same way as silk/linen or wool/linen blends. Having said that theres not much around in black in silk linen blends right now as we are in fall/winter season.

Minnis Fresco quality 104335 is probably the way to go, Id say half line it, but the lining you use should be black and the tailor should use a dark canvas so that lining or canvas doesn't show through.
post #10 of 11
You would use a dark charcoal cloth.
post #11 of 11
Thread Starter 

Guys, thank you for your input on this.

I can't find a link on-line to Minnis Fresco quality 104335, so I'm not clear on the advantages and disadvantages.

It's been easier to find info on Loro Piano Tasmanian, Summer Tasmanian, and Loro Piano Super 120s/130s.  I presume that Summer Tasmanian is the logical choice, but it's not clear to me that the differences are really very great.

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Fabrics for a black suit for summer/Central America