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Made to Measure Suiting

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
Hi everyone,

I have fairly new when it comes to suits, I have bought most of mine from Banana Republic and brands from Macys such as Ryan Seacrest. I'm a fairly thin and lengthy person so it's been hard for me to find an OTR suit that truly fits me without spending 1-3 hundred more on alterations. With that being said, I think for future investments, it would be a lot wiser for me to get a suit that is Made to Measure. I know these can be a little bit more expensive but I was hoping to get some insight from those who have done this similar service before!

Questions:

How much is too much for a MTM suit?

Type of retailers that you recommend? I've look at SuitSupply, Nordstrom, and small local shops around the area that provide such services.

With my small and thin frame, I would love to have a peak lapel! Do you think I could pull it off whether it is wide or regular??
post #2 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trinh13715 View Post

Hi everyone,

I have fairly new when it comes to suits...

How much is too much for a MTM suit?

Type of retailers that you recommend? I've look at SuitSupply, Nordstrom, and small local shops around the area that provide such services.

With my small and thin frame, I would love to have a peak lapel! Do you think I could pull it off whether it is wide or regular??

Few points about MTM:
  • Don't worry about how much MTM should cost in general, worry about how much you are comfortable spending. There is a wide range out there and what's reasonable very much depends on what you need, like, and are prepared to shell out. I suppose if your search brings you into the range of what full custom/bespoke costs you may want to consider the question more deeply, but it doesn't sound like that would be the case.
  • Disregard MTM altogether if you're not comfortable spending at least ~$900 - anything below that is likely to be online MTM and the results rarely work out well. No matter what your first shot may not be amazing but it has every chance of being the best fitting thing you own if your proportions really are far outside of RTW norms.
  • Suit Supply MTM starts around $1050 from what I was told the other night when I visited their San Francisco store - but have you tried their RTW stuff yet? It's pretty slim already - do you feel you're too tall or short for it?
  • A local tailor could be a reasonable option, but ask to see (and try on if possible) some finished pieces. Ask them about their process, whether there will be any fittings (some MTM tailors will do one fitting while the suit is in progress, at least on your first one).

In terms of lapels, save peak for later. Start conservative with notch lapels on a basic navy or charcoal/mid-grey in a standard worsted fabric. Something that will be versatile and hold up to repeated wears while you dial in your fit on new stuff as you have the means to do so. Shoot for a lapel size that spans halfway across your shoulder span (maybe a bit less if you're really slim).
post #3 of 12
Thread Starter 

Hi jcmeyer,

 

Thank you for taking the time for responding to my post. I really appreciate it! I think my comfort level in terms of spending... would be a a little over a grand. Anything more, I would not be able to justify it. I've done some research and I know that bespoke suiting cost way more! 

 

I have not tried anything when it comes to SuitSupply. Unfortunately, I live in a state that does not have any stores but I do plan on visiting soon! Knowing that they are known for suits, I thought they would be a very trustworthy retailer to get such services done. The smaller local retailers told me their orders range from $900-$2,000.. from the reviews I read about this store, it is pretty high end.. brands like Hickory Farms etc.. 

 

I am about average height (5'8) and thin/scrawny. I sorta feel like when I try an OTR suit, I am in the middle.. I just know when I buy OTR suits, I for sure get the waist taken in, shoulders fit great whether they are a 36r or 36s, but they do have to put in some additional work to remove the excess fabric even if I do buy a slim fit. That is just the jacket, in terms of the pants, I have to get them tapered to slim to them down so I don't look like I'm swimming in them. 

 

Since I am new to this process, I'm just afraid of being taken advantage of due to my lack of knowledge. I just want the best experience as possible since I am putting in such an investment. 

 

Thanks for insight and time! 

post #4 of 12
No problem at all. Here is the suit supply thread: http://www.styleforum.net/t/250682/suitsupply-nyc/13260#post_8563868 - you can work backwards from there if you want or ask the people in there about fit and maybe someone that has done their MTM program. I can't recall anyone offhand but you can ask about it in more detail there.

Before you do it, though, I really recommend ordering some of their OTR stuff and trying it out. At 5'8" I think the length of their Regulars should be fine on you, but by all means order several sizes/cuts and simply return the ones that don't fit (or all of them if none are what you want). It's free shipping both ways. Going MTM may still be the answer but you'll get a lot more for a lot less if you happen to work for their RTW stuff. Pants are definitely slim from SuSu so that shouldn't be a problem!
post #5 of 12

You have to be more matter-of-fact when asking for clothing advice online. When you wrote "small and thin frame," I thought 5' 3", 100 lbs. At 5' 8", you can get away with wearing regular length suit, which make a huge different in clothing selections.

 

Maybe post a picture of you wearing your best fitted suit and list out your specs; i.e.: 5' 8", 110 lbs, 34" chest, 27" waist, with 1k to spend on a suit that I can wear to weddings and work.

post #6 of 12

I have similar frame as you. 5' 8'', 135lb, athletic build, beefy arms and shoulder, pant 29 waist.

From my experience, designer suits jacket usually shorter than traditional/classic brand, you may be wear 36R for designer label, which usually is 29.25 inches long for 36r. For other suits brand, 36r is 30.5 inches, no no no, get 36s. The length of your jacket depends on the proportion of your legs and upper body, so you situation may different. My perfect jacket length is 28.5 inches, so 29.25 is acceptable but no more than that.

Take in waist is one of the easiest alteration for a suit, only cost about $40. I always buy the slimmest model of all brand, so I suppose I am a slim guy. My shoulder is too big and need to lower armhole for designer labels, but the waist is ok (slimmest model). I suspect you really need to take in waist if you can find the slimmest model.

 

I suggest you stay with OTR, if you are not very familiar with suits, I mean wear suits everyday to work less than 6 months at least. The reason is that you do not know what you want or what you can choose from MTM. I was stubbornly wanted to purchase MTM instead of OTR. Thanks for the advice from this forum, I did not go MTM. Since I started to wear suits to work, I learned something about suits everyday. I know the armhole is too high, i know where I want my button to locate, I know which kind of lapel I want. OTR is same if not better for starters. 

 

BTW, spend some time in gym, gain some muscle, then you will fit well with most OTF suits and look better in them. GOOD LUCK 

post #7 of 12
Thread Starter 
Jcmeyer: I'll be sure to use that forum post you included as a reference and a go-to to see how their experiences are. I do plan on either ordering or going to the physical store itself to see if the OTR is good enough and if the MTM route is the best way to go! I appreciate it!

Rabidorphan: I'll be sure to include more minor details once I get that information and pictures in the near future. If you could imagine.. I would say my frame would be like "Kevin Durant" except I'm 5'8 not 6'10-11 lol.

CloudLi: From my recent suit purchases, I for sure get the waist taken it.. there are times where there is too much excess fabric in the back too. Even if they claim it's a "slim fit". I do hope if I do go to a store specifically design for those with the expertise in suiting they would be able to help me with the minor details like you suggested, armholes, buttons, lapels etc. In regards to the comment to the gym.. I'm trying!! lol.
post #8 of 12
I believe doing a MTM with suit supply is a problem waiting to happen. Save yourself the aggravation and look for a better option.
post #9 of 12

Speaking of better options, what MTM suits do people recommend in New York? I'd like to limit my spending as much as possible, but I also want to look good and have the garment last.

post #10 of 12

the reviews I read about this store, it is pretty high end.. brands like Hickory Farms etc.. 

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post #11 of 12
Thread Starter 

Alpha11: What type of store would you recommend going into for getting this service done? There are some Men Tailoring Shops around.. Like Twill and Hubert White but outside of that.. That's it in Minneapolis.. Oh and I guess Nordstrom..

post #12 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trinh13715 View Post

Alpha11: What type of store would you recommend going into for getting this service done? There are some Men Tailoring Shops around.. Like Twill and Hubert White but outside of that.. That's it in Minneapolis.. Oh and I guess Nordstrom..

I would and have used Brooks Brothers for my first MTM suits. The experience was great from snap to whistle. I was able to get a better understanding about the different kinds of fabric and how they were woven ( 2-on 2 or 1 on 2 ) and the different super counts. The sales rep has been doing this for over 30+ years as well as the tailor. They took the time to explain everything in terms I could understand. For example the difference between full canvas, partial canvas and fused canvas.

The experience at Brooks Brothers you that I had and the finished product was top notch. I did not have to take the suits back for any fixes or alterations and the sales Rep recommendations were spot-on.

I went with their Golden Fleece ( fully canvas hand-stitched using horse hair) option with the profile fit of Regent. The fabric I used was from the Vitale Barberis Canonico mills and was super 160.It was manufactured at their Southwick plant. Which to me was great because that meant it was made in the USA and not made in some Chinese sweat shop.
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