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Going nuts over suit fitting. - Page 2

post #16 of 33
If you like longer sleeves, that's pretty strange anyway I'll not judge it is your taste. The long skirt is a canali and other style signature, but I think in this case it is a bit too long looking your hand. But without seeing your completely figure, I have to say it's difficult to judge. I see any comment I read it is ok here. It is true that if you want perfection (nearly) you can only go bespoke. I don't think MTM could really make a difference. Or maybe you can have belly, sleeves and shoulders of different sizes, I don't know.
post #17 of 33
Bingo. You have to remember that a suit will construct an image around you. It's not going to hug you like spandex. If you try to go for extreme waist suppression you will get a different effect than you're imagining. You will look feminine or like an 80s fashion victim.
post #18 of 33
Thread Starter 
Yes, a pocket square (handkerchief) can add the color and pattern that might otherwise or additionally be supplied by a tie. Without, the gray suit/white shirt combo evokes Tom Cruise' hitman in COLLATERAL.  Unless this is the effect you desire. Just don't shoot me.
I was more going for Leon (Robert De Niro) character look in HEAT. But thanks for all of you advises. I will take .5 inch each side in on waist and shorten the sleeves .. I'll do it from the shoulders .. since I do not wanna loose sleeve button.
post #19 of 33
Shorten the sleeves. Maybe take in the waist just a tiny bit.
post #20 of 33
It looks fine to me, to be honest, I didn't notice anything wrong with it. It is particularly difficult to tell how baggy the belly is when youre jacket is left open like it is in the picture.
post #21 of 33
2. Length of the Jacket.  Yes.  I feel its bit long too.  But I cannot help that.  Thats how Canali RTW comes in .. Interesting thing I noticed when comparing Canali jacket to other jacket like my Brioni or Armani is that Canali's tail-rear end of skirt edge is not curved up, thus creating 'longer' look.  Brioni, Zegna, Armani, all of these jackets tail edge curve up ..  Perhaps I can do that to Canali? To fit upper chest and shoulder I need to wear 44R coat.  But to fit belly and waist, I need like 40R coat.
The longer skirt is just part of the Canali style - it looks fine.  The shoulders look a little too wide - I really think that the Armani silhouette, all workmanship considerations aside, do fit you a little better.  Ever notice how well Ahnold's suits fit him?  Well, that because he wears a lot of Armani - the natural shoulder prevents him from looking like a former linebacker sports commentator.  As for the sleeves, they are a little too long (I have the opposite problem - I have long arms, but a 40L would be too long on me everywhere else,) but this problem is easily fixed.  As for your so called "belly" problem, it's really not that much of a problem.  It may be counterintuitive, but you don't want too much waist suppression if you have a large drop.  It can make you look like a caricature.  Elegant is the effect you want, not cartoonish.  I would suggest going to a good tailor and having him take in the waist just slightly.
I was under the impression that Da Govinator wore Canali. koji
post #22 of 33
post #23 of 33
I've read interviews in which Giorgio waxes eloquent about how he likes to dress Ahnold, and others in which the Governator praises the work of the Gigolo tailor. I suspect a love affair.
post #24 of 33
Where do you live, by the way? Something that might be of interest to you, that I've done recently-- I went to a very high end store, like Neiman Marcus, and tried on several different sizes and makes of suits-- even the ones I thought were too small (such as 40reg, as I normally wear a 42reg....I also tried on the 42 short size). I've found that what fits me the BEST is not the size or make that I expected. Another idea might be to visit a custom tailor shop, with one of your suits-- let him critique or offer tailoring suggestions. Just keep in mind that if you don't show just a little bit of shirt sleeve at the cuff, you'll look short in your suits/ people will perceive your jackets as being too big for you.
post #25 of 33
i read somewhere that showing a little cuff makes your arms look longer. definitely shorten your sleeves. and i agree that it's difficult to judge the fit of your jacket if you leave it unbuttoned. according to "extra." arnold wore prada to his inauguration.
post #26 of 33
Yes, definitely shorten the sleeves so you have the proper amount of shirt cuff showing. Seeing a man wearing a suit jacket with sleeves that are too long is one of my major pet peeves. It makes me want to get violent.
post #27 of 33
Thread Starter 
Ok .. Ok .. fellas .. the sleeves are going in as all you have suggested. It's going to be short so that 1/4 inch of cuff of shirts will show when arms rested. Another question, I left E. Zenga suit to the tailor. He asked me if i wanted cuffed on the pants. The pants is double pleated. Again (my style). Reguardless of pleats, I do not like cuffed bottom. However, for this Zegna suit, I want something different. I am going with cuff, but not those 1.25 - 1.5 inch business looking cuff. I want 2.5 - 3 inch cuff.. Now, is it too much?
post #28 of 33
I wouldn't go past 2 inches. Any further than that and your legs start looking very short and weird.
post #29 of 33
IMHO, to cuff or not is largely a question of leg length.  If you're short (but you don't seem to be, MilanoStyle) consider leaving the cuffs off your trousers altogether.  In so doing, you will elongate the leg.  On the other hand, if you're a gangly giraffe (like me), by all means add a cuff.  The taller you are, the deeper.  Mine has always been one and 5/8 inches, just about the widest standard cuff you can find, I think. BTW, the other important trouser cuff variable is fabric weight. Some gabardines, I have found, get too swingy with a deep cuff.
post #30 of 33
I cuff my pants to 1 3/4 inches and have the largest cuffs I've ever seen on anyone less than 6'4". A 2 to 3 inch cuff will look ridiculous, unless you're 7'.
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