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tuxedo vest

post #1 of 15
Thread Starter 

Still learning my way around a tuxedo. 

 

The vest (waistcoat) is my latest mystery. 

 

I just purchased the trousers, jacket, and vest today.  I spent a great deal of time choosing the jacket and trousers, I didn't put any thought into the vest.  I just took the one they gave me.

 

I can still swap out in the next 24 hours, but after that alterations will start, and I'll be stuck.  So here's the question:

 

This vest is sold with the tux, so I assume it's appropriate.  It's five button, full back, silk (matches my jacket, peak lapels, also silk).  It's NICE, as garments go!

 

Many guides say the vest - for  tuxedo - should be cut lower to show more of the dress shirt.  Using that guideline - this vest is, IMO, quite high.  HOWEVER, other guides show photos of exactly what I bought.

 

Some guides say no vest should show above the buttoned jacket.

 

Others say don't button the jacket.

 

Opinions?  Help?  Thanks!

post #2 of 15

The "correct" vest IS cut lower, in a U-shape opening to accomodate the U-shape bib.

 

The "bastardized" tux vest is cut like a 3-piece suit vest, can be in silk, and goes great with a notch lapel 2-button dinner jacket with center vent.

 

Buttoning rules for a single breasted tux is same as for any single breasted jacket: unbutton when sitting down, button when standing up.

post #3 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by starro View Post
 

The "correct" vest IS cut lower, in a U-shape opening to accomodate the U-shape bib.

 

The "bastardized" tux vest is cut like a 3-piece suit vest, can be in silk, and goes great with a notch lapel 2-button dinner jacket with center vent.

 

Buttoning rules for a single breasted tux is same as for any single breasted jacket: unbutton when sitting down, button when standing up.

+1

post #4 of 15
Thread Starter 

Thanks for the info - this leaves me concerned!  It's a minor point, to be sure, I'm not a regular tuxedo wearer, and don't plan to become one.  This is only my wedding.  >leaves dry sarcasm hang in the air<

 

I have a satin peak lapel, one-button, no vent jacket. 

 

Why would a reputable seller of menswear steer me towards such a vest, when I'm already committed to purchasing the "right" things?  (i.e., this is not budget issue.)

 

"can be in silk" - is this implying that the "correct" vest is NOT in silk?

 

I doubt anyone in attendance is as aware of the fine points as this forum is, but still, people know when You Look Good, even if they don't know why.  So - I'm just trying to do my best!

post #5 of 15

May I ask where you are living? Tux interpretations/rules are handled slightly differed, depending where you are living. At least in Europe you do not see a lot of tux + vest combinations.

post #6 of 15
Thread Starter 

Good point, bloodybrilliant - I'm in the USA.

post #7 of 15
Swap the waitcoat for a cummerbund. Much less angst for you and one less layer in case it's a warm weather event or the A/C is on the blink.
post #8 of 15
Oh, and pics would help!
post #9 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by shipcamein View Post
 

Thanks for the info - this leaves me concerned!  It's a minor point, to be sure, I'm not a regular tuxedo wearer, and don't plan to become one.  This is only my wedding.  >leaves dry sarcasm hang in the air<

 

I have a satin peak lapel, one-button, no vent jacket. 

 

Why would a reputable seller of menswear steer me towards such a vest, when I'm already committed to purchasing the "right" things?  (i.e., this is not budget issue.)

 

"can be in silk" - is this implying that the "correct" vest is NOT in silk?

 

I doubt anyone in attendance is as aware of the fine points as this forum is, but still, people know when You Look Good, even if they don't know why.  So - I'm just trying to do my best!

 

Vide http://www.blacktieguide.com/Classic/Classic_Waist.htm.

 

As the article mentions, the black tie waistcoat may be in silk that matches the lapel facings of the dinner jacket. But since you got a satin lapel, an entire vest made of shiny satin silk is just too tacky IMO. One made of the same wool (or similar if you have to buy separate) is traditinoal and understated.

 

It seems that a proper black tie waistcoat with full back is difficult to find OTR, so your options might be limited to backless, or cummerbund.

post #10 of 15
Thread Starter 
thanks for the info,everyone! yes, the BTG gave me all the facts, except one: where to purchase such a unicorn. Am I to believe, then, that everyone buying a tuxedo at brooks brothers is stuck with an entirely innapropriate choice of vest? (it is just one brand, to be sure, but the problem seems widespread!)
yes,a cummerbund is an option, but i prefer the vest, just personal preference.
bb does have a backless version...and it is low...so by BTG guidelines, it is the winner, no? I did prefer the full back version, for jacket-removal purposes,but I see now that should never happen!
post #11 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by shipcamein View Post

thanks for the info,everyone! yes, the BTG gave me all the facts, except one: where to purchase such a unicorn. Am I to believe, then, that everyone buying a tuxedo at brooks brothers is stuck with an entirely innapropriate choice of vest? (it is just one brand, to be sure, but the problem seems widespread!)
yes,a cummerbund is an option, but i prefer the vest, just personal preference.
bb does have a backless version...and it is low...so by BTG guidelines, it is the winner, no? I did prefer the full back version, for jacket-removal purposes,but I see now that should never happen!

 

Yes, and it's not just people who shop at BB (who let's face it, are more sartorially aware than the average population). Do an eBay search for "tuxedo vest" and you'll see pages upon pages of gaudy polyester vests in oranges and pinks, with 5-6 buttons. My hunch for why is a confluence of teenagers going to prom who couldn't give less of a $hit + the rental industry that knows its customers can be talked into anything (e.g. patent leather derbies).

 

So between backless vest and cummerbund, I would say the vest is still more formal. With a cummerband one still runs the risk of exposing one's suspenders when seated. Of course, a backless waistcoat will never fit and drape like a proper waistcoat would, but sometimes one needs to make do...

 

One thing I am curious about: Does your wedding take place during the day or the evening? Because one of the more cringe-worthy things for me is people wearing eveningwear under bright sunlight.

post #12 of 15

You might be in luck. It's DB thought, and they seem to be running out of sizes.

 

 

http://www.dobell.com/wilvorst-100-wool-black-tuxedo-vest-1/

post #13 of 15

Go with a cummerbund. You will almost certainly not find the right type of waistcoat off the rack in the US. Ede & Ravenscroft in London would have what you need and they do offer some limited online options. Otherwise it's best to get a formal vest made by a tailor.

post #14 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy57 View Post
 

Go with a cummerbund. You will almost certainly not find the right type of waistcoat off the rack in the US. Ede & Ravenscroft in London would have what you need and they do offer some limited online options. Otherwise it's best to get a formal vest made by a tailor.

+1

post #15 of 15
Thread Starter 

Again, thanks everyone.  Starro, not to worry, it's late fall, midwest - bright sunlight is not something we anticipate at any time of day here.  It will be dark before the ceremony is over.

 

To summarize, then - since I've started this thread, I hit a few brick and mortar stores locally, some rental, some purchase, but the story is always the same.  No average person of average ambitions is going to find a proper tuxedo OTR, and by proper, I mean the fine details we have all been discussing. If you're willing to compromise on some aspects, well, options abound.  If you're a stickler for the keen points - good luck finding even a vendor who knows them, let alone can provide them. 

 

That's funny about the dobell - i did find that myself earlier too - so it must be where the searchers end up.  I just am hesitant on the matching of materials and BLACK - the vest I've been offered, though too high and maybe just WRONG, is at least a perfect match in color and material.  :::sigh:::  I for one am thrilled that this is the biggest problem I face today!

 

Thanks again, all, appreciate the input.  I always learn something here.

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