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Reshaping lapels - Armani "Kent" Double Breasted

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 
Hi! I'm new to the forum, have been an enthusiast for a long time but recently took the plunge on some finer clothes and am hoping to get sucked into the rabbit hole. One of the articles I recently purchased is an older Armani Kent style 4x1 suit. While I enjoy it as it is, I have to wonder if there is a way to modify it to the more standard 4x2 configuration. Is there a way for a skilled tailor to modify the lapels from this deep cut to a more modern fold, ending right above the top button? Buttons and such are easy enough to move but this does no good if the lapels are a done deal. Any thoughts?

If I have no luck adjusting this, I'm perfectly happy to wear it as a 4x1 - but I question my own ability to pull such a brave look off. wink.gif

Thanks!

[IMG]
Edited by PrestonCR - 8/12/16 at 12:46pm
post #2 of 9
Thread Starter 
post #3 of 9
Thread Starter 
Something like this:
http://anaffordablewardrobe.blogspot.com/2010/01/hard-press-re-fitting-32-roll.html?m=1

Is this something I should attempt myself or..?
post #4 of 9

I would first ask how much you value that suit - reshaping the lapels is a risky proposition. Once you apply the heat of the iron you risk warping the canvas underneath; if the chest is fused applying heat can cause the fusing to "bubble".

That lapel seems pretty hard pressed to me, and I think even if you were able to get the crease out of the lower portion successfully, it would pull weirdly across the front given how far the second button is up and across the chest.

 

How does the 4x1 look as is? Can you rock it? Or do you feel uncomfortable wearing it and is it very obviously dated?

post #5 of 9

What you are attempting is the opposite of rolling the lapel from the top button of a 3 button to the lower middle button.

 

You are asking to make the lapel roll higher. You cannot do this by pressing. This is a function of the tension of the collar on the lapel. To create the lapel roll to a higher point you need a new collar that is longer. This is possible if the collar has outlets folded under at both ends of the collar. You only need to remake the under collar and apply the top collar. You will want to adjust the front edge on the left front to remove the curve on the lapel edge from the lowest button to the new buttonhole position. If you don't change the length of the collar and just add a new buttonhole, the lapel will still roll to the lower point and will look strained when buttoning the jacket higher. Will pull away at the collar.

 

What did you mean when you said it is easy to move buttonholes?

post #6 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

What you are attempting is the opposite of rolling the lapel from the top button of a 3 button to the lower middle button.

You are asking to make the lapel roll higher. You cannot do this by pressing. This is a function of the tension of the collar on the lapel. To create the lapel roll to a higher point you need a new collar that is longer. This is possible if the collar has outlets folded under at both ends of the collar. You only need to remake the under collar and apply the top collar. You will want to adjust the front edge on the left front to remove the curve on the lapel edge from the lowest button to the new buttonhole position. If you don't change the length of the collar and just add a new buttonhole, the lapel will still roll to the lower point and will look strained when buttoning the jacket higher. Will pull away at the collar.

What did you mean when you said it is easy to move buttonholes?


Wise advice as ever.
post #7 of 9
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

What you are attempting is the opposite of rolling the lapel from the top button of a 3 button to the lower middle button.

You are asking to make the lapel roll higher. You cannot do this by pressing. This is a function of the tension of the collar on the lapel. To create the lapel roll to a higher point you need a new collar that is longer. This is possible if the collar has outlets folded under at both ends of the collar. You only need to remake the under collar and apply the top collar. You will want to adjust the front edge on the left front to remove the curve on the lapel edge from the lowest button to the new buttonhole position. If you don't change the length of the collar and just add a new buttonhole, the lapel will still roll to the lower point and will look strained when buttoning the jacket higher. Will pull away at the collar.

What did you mean when you said it is easy to move buttonholes?

I'm not sure if I'm totally understanding you - my idea is not simply to add a buttonhole and button it on top, the thought is that the lapel could potentially be reshaped? Press a new crease and remove the old one without otherwise modifying the construction of the jacket.

And sorry, I meant move buttons and add buttonholes.
post #8 of 9
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pleatedjeans View Post

I would first ask how much you value that suit - reshaping the lapels is a risky proposition. Once you apply the heat of the iron you risk warping the canvas underneath; if the chest is fused applying heat can cause the fusing to "bubble".


That lapel seems pretty hard pressed to me, and I think even if you were able to get the crease out of the lower portion successfully, it would pull weirdly across the front given how far the second button is up and across the chest.

How does the 4x1 look as is? Can you rock it? Or do you feel uncomfortable wearing it and is it very obviously dated?

Had not thought about the canvas or bubbling - thanks for bringing that up.

To address the height of the top two buttons, I could have them moved, potentially, to an appropriate position before adding any new buttonholes. Was already planning to replace these with horn so it's not a stretch.

As far as how it is now, it's something that I think I could possibly pull off (once it's tailored to fit much slimmer), however, I tend to prefer the 4x1 all around, or even that great 2x1 look I've seen here and there, although that in particular is out of the question for this suit as far as I know.
post #9 of 9
Thread Starter 
Examined the jacket and it appears that it is canvassed - so the risk of warping is there but at least not the bubbling.
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