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What is wrong with Brioni? - Page 6

post #76 of 134

I just saw the spring/summer 2017 collection, and to be honest was pleasantly surprised.  I was a little pessimistic (even as a Metallica-lover), but we found really beautiful swatches and will still be working with very wearable models.  For the Brioni Customer that I see, the fabrics that end up in store will tell the real story, and I am actually positive about what is available.  

post #77 of 134
Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post

Are you sure? On the NM website the continental models are from the 'Paris One Collection'.

Looks like they're stilling selling their regular, handmade models (with higher retail than the continental fits).


Do you have a link? My understanding is that O'Shea's first, real collection is set to hit stores SS17. He just got the job four months ago, so there needs to be time for design, showing the collection to buyers, collecting orders, producing items, and shipping to stores. I can't imagine how that would all be done in a couple of months' time.

There is a small "Paris One" capsule collection at Brioni's flagships in LA and NYC. And there's an exclusive with Barney's. I don't know if O'Shea had much to do with that collection. From what I've seen, it just looks like slimmer, shorter suit sihlouettes, so it's not like much was done. Maybe the design work was made before him? I don't know. For what it's worth, all those Paris One suits are fully canvassed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingMonkey View Post

So, the summary is that some Brioni fans are getting upset because Brioni is betraying them by going back to its authentically glamorous, over-the-top and tasteless roots.

Some of the anger seems misplaced. As the poster above said, Brendan Mullane's collections were also a little out there. Maybe not as brash as O'Shea's Paris One collection (and the kind of things he seems to take inspiration from), but obviously targeted at a fashion forward crowd. O'Shea is just a more aggressive extension of that.

IMO, this is more about Kering, not O'Shea. About ten years ago, their CEO (Unberto Angeloni) left on bad terms. As I understand it, Brioni was forced to borrow $100 million to pay him and settle some kind of agreement. That was a huge liability and left them in dire financial straits. Then four years ago, they were saved by Kering, who bought them out and re-strategized the company's direction. They obviously want to make Brioni into a more fashion forward label. Some of Kering brands certainly have had success in this way (Gucci has been making big waves). I'm just not sure Brioni can do the same while holding their core, somewhat conservative tailored clientele.

Don't know if I would call it a return to their roots either. This feels very different, both in terms of design and marketing. It's much more inspired by the "low fashion" trend you see in fashion-forward circles than traditional ideas about glamour or whatever.
post #78 of 134
Some of the SS17 collection is on Hypebeast. Suits look "normal", but obviously going in the fashion forward direction (slim and short, some funky fabrics). The outerwear is deliciously terrific bounce2.gif. The shirts and ties, which is where most of the money is made, uhoh.gifuhoh.gifuhoh.gif In Mr. O'Shea's own words “It’s very gangster to wear a silk shirt. That’s the kind of guy I want to appeal to,”

Overall, I think they will be fine with the suits. The shirts and ties I am assuming will be seriously toned down from the runway for the mass market, they are just silly. The coats are just amazing, but there is a limited clientele for $50-100K outwear.


link

http://hypebeast.com/2016/7/justin-oshea-brioni-2017-spring-summer-collection
post #79 of 134
post #80 of 134
Quote:
Originally Posted by FattoAMano View Post

Prior to Justin O'Shea, the creative director was Brendan Mullane. When he took over in 2012, his designs were fashion forward and his last collection was really out there.  As the Parisian gent pointed out sales went south. So Brioni axed him and intended to go back to pre 2012 with Justin O'Shea.  

Also, not sure O'Shea is "pre-Kering." He did an interview with Vogue last month discussing his vision

http://www.vogue.com/13454070/brioni-justin-oshea-interview/
post #81 of 134
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Do you have a link? My understanding is that O'Shea's first, real collection is set to hit stores SS17. He just got the job four months ago, so there needs to be time for design, showing the collection to buyers, collecting orders, producing items, and shipping to stores. I can't imagine how that would all be done in a couple of months' time.

There is a small "Paris One" capsule collection at Brioni's flagships in LA and NYC. And there's an exclusive with Barney's. I don't know if O'Shea had much to do with that collection. From what I've seen, it just looks like slimmer, shorter suit sihlouettes, so it's not like much was done. Maybe the design work was made before him? I don't know. For what it's worth, all those Paris One suits are fully canvassed.
.

Sorry, not NM. Meant Barneys:

http://www.barneys.com/brioni-continental-three-piece-suit-504778441.html

If you notice, the Continental suit with vest has a lower retail than their regular two-piece suits (colleseo, etc...).

Makes me wonder where they found the savings to sell their continental three-piece suits cheaper than their regular two piece suits.
post #82 of 134
Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post

Makes me wonder where they found the savings to sell their continental three-piece suits cheaper than their regular two piece suits.

I assume they just priced it accordingly to their target market. It's a slimmer, shorter suit for the kind of guy who will probably wear that a few times a year, not every day to an office.

As far as I know, those Barney's Continental suits are all fully canvassed.
post #83 of 134
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post

Some of the SS17 collection is on Hypebeast. Suits look "normal", but obviously going in the fashion forward direction (slim and short, some funky fabrics). The outerwear is deliciously terrific bounce2.gif

http://hypebeast.com/2016/7/justin-oshea-brioni-2017-spring-summer-collection

 

Thanks for the link, Ed. 

 

I'll just leave this here:

 

post #84 of 134
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Journeyman View Post
 

 

Thanks for the link, Ed. 

 

I'll just leave this here:

 

http://esq.h-cdn.co/assets/cm/15/06/54d3f07ea3373_-_4-esq-the-short-suit-isnt-a-new-thing-061914-xl4.jpg

post #85 of 134
They're gonna be huge in Russia.
post #86 of 134

This is good news! Maybe I will consider buying Brioni now when I get rich.

post #87 of 134
Only one question need be asked: does Jeremy Piven still wear Brioni? happy.gif
post #88 of 134

If there is one thing I have learned is that tattoos are not what make you a good or bad person. I work with a surgeon who is an absolute master at his craft and he's got ink all over him.

 

As far as the logo is concerned, they went back to their roots, which is actually a great idea. If the new guy can keep the quality the same but bring back some originality to Brioni then he might do wonders for the company. I don't own any Brioni aside from ties but aside from a few pieces they have some really well made boring clothing. 

 

PS You wouldn't believe how many middle aged men I've seen try new styles and venture into trendy clothing because a brand they loved was starting to put such pieces out. 

post #89 of 134
Good or bad person are meaningless terms, but (for me, and again for me) body mutilation (including tattoos) is something scary. I can't help but feeling sorry for person who has to do that to himself or herself, and I often ask (my self) what is the real deep underlying reason.
post #90 of 134
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post


O'Shea only started working at Brioni this April. He debuted his first collection three weeks ago in Paris and it's not set to hit stores until SS17. Whatever is at NM probably doesn't have anything to do with him.


Traditionally it would take a whole season for this collection to hit the stores. However they rushed to get his capsule in the stores.  Walk into any Brioni boutique and ask to see his collection and they will show you the fused suits.  

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