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What is wrong with Brioni? - Page 8

post #106 of 134
Unfortunate experience and not what you'd expect for the money. Had a quick google of Isaia, they look nice.

On the weekend whilst having my alterations done in the boutique I also tried on lots of their recent lines. The best one I tried was a DB which fitted like a glove, I forgot which model it was but at £4.6k I won't be getting it anytime soon as I don't have any real need to wear suits much anyway. It was a cashmere and silk blend though and was exquisite.

The Madison line is really well fitted and zero boxyness. If I had to wear a suit for work, it would be this one. The funny thing is I went to Tom Ford after and their 2 models just didn't look right on me which I was disappointed about. The Windsor was more workable and looked slimmer. I think I'm right Inbetween 46-48 with them which makes it tricky to see. The price starts a good £1000 less than a Brioni which is good though.
post #107 of 134
Hello thread/forum -
Long time reader and lurker. Reading this thread prompted me to join to comment. I have been a Brioni client for a couple years now after needing a tuxedo for an event and wanting "the best." I did a bespoke tux and some of the Giza 45 shirting that they don't seem to make anymore (please bring it back!!). I have long had a great relationship with my salesman and have been a semi-regular (as the budget allows) client since. He provided quite a bit of insight to the change of direction, and I must say I'm happy for it.
I'm certainly more on the fashion side of things (less so Tom ford, more so Thom Browne), and I think the appointment is inspired. Brioni doesn't need a designer - the brand makes suits and shirting. That's the core. The client that buys Brioni denim and sportswear and odds and ends - gloves, hats, eyewear - are laughable. Best wishes to them, but it just seems silly. Brioni is formalwear, through and through. O'Shea's going to make capsule collections to reflect a "return to masculinity." They're a bit crass and over the top as some previous posters alluded to; however, they are effective at creating an idea/look/image. I'm not a Metallica fan but the ads have an inherent clarity that immediately surpasses all of the Varvatos/HediSLP fanboy nonsense.
The brand will continue to make suiting in its normal way with gorgeous fabrics. The capsules sit alongside but separate from them (my salesman said they are forbidden to mix). The continental suit is a lot of look (as another poster said), and I'm unsure how much wear I could get from it. I can imagine the attention alluded to by said previous poster. But it's cool. The normal suiting is still cool. There is some balance between the beautifully boring and edgy fashion with a choice for either while feeling all a bit more masculine. i disagree that O'shea is hipster. He's too hard. He'd kick a hipsters ass. And I think that is kind of the point. Brioni reasserting its history as a Man's trailblazing label. Bold, forward, affluent, and for powerful men, not boys and not the elderly.
And the logo is cool. Rant over
post #108 of 134
post #109 of 134
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chas Knight View Post
 

I'm sure were not surprised to see this today:

 

https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/justin-oshea-out-at-brioni

Ha. They should have stuck with the standard recipe for going mass market with high priced luxury: stick to a core of ultra high quality at equivalently high prices to keep the brand aspirational, then offer little cheap things for the not-yet-there buyer to make most of the margin. Cf Hermes with fragrances.

post #110 of 134
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chas Knight View Post

I'm sure were not surprised to see this today:

https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/justin-oshea-out-at-brioni

That didn't last long. Although I'm a Brioni fan, and I love the 3 piece continental, I had no love for the Metallica campaign. For me, the face of Brioni is Bond. I recently just bought a dark blue 2 piece from their 2015 line for formal occasions and although very different style from the 2016 continental, love it too. Can't wait to get it back from its tailoring.

I assume that for many like myself, their commitment is to Brioni, not one of its employees however senior their role. I hope Brioni re-capture their position as the Bond tailor in the same way Aston Martin came back after the movie's stint with BMW. That would make me one happy customer.
post #111 of 134

visited their outlet over the weekend and tried on their Madison cut (apparently one of their fairly new slim cuts).  Fit almost like bespoke.  How is Brioni's current build quality?  Also for some reason having a hard time finding online retailers that carry the Madison.

post #112 of 134
Considering the tone of his comments about Brioni and its "shitty logo" it's no surprise he was ousted this soon. He shows a lack of respect for one of the most illustrious tailoring houses in the world that has been handled with great care for decades.

He may very well have been difficult to work with in the studio and atelier in addition to, obviously, being short on creative ideas.

Brioni could use a hand with prepping it for the next decade to ensure its revenue and significance continues, but we need to do this with all do reverence for the magnificent House that it is. You can't completely alienate the existing clientele in favor of prospects who may never appear. You need to please the current while attracting new customers and admirers.

His first collection was too gothic, too musty and lacked sophistication and edge. His imagery and brand direction reads as change for the sake of change initiated by an insecure personality seeking to raise his profile at any cost. His work wasn't acceptable, and that's the just the objective truth. He is a substandard colorist, pushing harsh unflattering cuts with a heavy hand. The furs were too long and straight out of 1970's Black cinema. But the thing is, he forgot to update them. He forgot to make them compelling and covetable for us in 2016. His arrogance is only bested by the fact that he was in over his head.
post #113 of 134
Thread Starter 

Good ridance. I feel so nice that i will wear my S150 Brioni tomorrow at work!!!!:D

post #114 of 134
Quote:
Originally Posted by Viral View Post

Guys.....all this is interesting and perhaps warrants more insight , But why didn't Brioni check with their customers before making any changes??? That's the $1,000,000.00 question! WHY??????

It was even mandated by a few posters above....WHY?????


quoting in memoriam.

post #115 of 134
Just win back the Bond account. The styles should speak for themselves then.
post #116 of 134
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonng85 View Post

visited their outlet over the weekend and tried on their Madison cut (apparently one of their fairly new slim cuts).  Fit almost like bespoke.  How is Brioni's current build quality?  Also for some reason having a hard time finding online retailers that carry the Madison.

The Madison is a very good line and build quality what you should expect from a Brioni. I tried it on before going to Tom Ford to try their suits on and I just slipped into the Maddison, but to my disappointingly looked unnatural in the Tom Ford.

I've just bought a different Brioni dark blue 2 piece which I've forgot the name of. It will look great when it returns from their tailors but if the Madison had the same discount, i would have gone for that.
post #117 of 134
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chas Knight View Post
 

I'm sure were not surprised to see this today:

 

https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/justin-oshea-out-at-brioni

 

Huh, I knew it was a just a matter of when...but this is sooner that I had anticipated.

 

No surprise at all.

 

I wonder who's wise idea it was from Kering's Board to bring him on in the first place?

post #118 of 134
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClassicKerim View Post


The Madison is a very good line and build quality what you should expect from a Brioni. I tried it on before going to Tom Ford to try their suits on and I just slipped into the Maddison, but to my disappointingly looked unnatural in the Tom Ford.

I've just bought a different Brioni dark blue 2 piece which I've forgot the name of. It will look great when it returns from their tailors but if the Madison had the same discount, i would have gone for that.

yeah the Madison is very nice...unfortunately no one seems to carry it.

post #119 of 134
The dismissal was no surprise as the appointment was a sign of desperation for a house that was experiencing many significant difficulties, please see my post earlier in this thread.
The knee jerk reaction to bring him in was an unsuccessful Hail Mary.
What they have to do now, and what they should have done 18 months ago was to seriously examine the situation, figure out the root of the problems especially with the small family owned haberdasherys who had been their mainstay in the US for over 45 years, and immediately address those problems so as to keep their core dealers and their loyal Brioni clientele.
As it stands now, they will have to work twice as hard, first to recapture their loyalists, then to expand their customer base using their reputation for style and quality based upon proven ability to deliver. One line or model devoted to the younger wealthier hipster is fine, but the core customer is and will always be a man who loves slightly conservative, exquisitely made products made from classic fabrics
post #120 of 134
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClassicKerim View Post

Just win back the Bond account. The styles should speak for themselves then.

The Bond account never really had any impact, at least as far as it impacted sales in the 3-4 locations where I frequent whose mainstay luxury line was Brioni . It was nice advertising, but all the suits Brosnan wore were special order, not OTR selections. The only house that emphasized the connection was T and A with a couple of shirts and ties.
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