Hello thread/forum -
Long time reader and lurker. Reading this thread prompted me to join to comment. I have been a Brioni client for a couple years now after needing a tuxedo for an event and wanting "the best." I did a bespoke tux and some of the Giza 45 shirting that they don't seem to make anymore (please bring it back!!). I have long had a great relationship with my salesman and have been a semi-regular (as the budget allows) client since. He provided quite a bit of insight to the change of direction, and I must say I'm happy for it.
I'm certainly more on the fashion side of things (less so Tom ford, more so Thom Browne), and I think the appointment is inspired. Brioni doesn't need a designer - the brand makes suits and shirting. That's the core. The client that buys Brioni denim and sportswear and odds and ends - gloves, hats, eyewear - are laughable. Best wishes to them, but it just seems silly. Brioni is formalwear, through and through. O'Shea's going to make capsule collections to reflect a "return to masculinity." They're a bit crass and over the top as some previous posters alluded to; however, they are effective at creating an idea/look/image. I'm not a Metallica fan but the ads have an inherent clarity that immediately surpasses all of the Varvatos/HediSLP fanboy nonsense.
The brand will continue to make suiting in its normal way with gorgeous fabrics. The capsules sit alongside but separate from them (my salesman said they are forbidden to mix). The continental suit is a lot of look (as another poster said), and I'm unsure how much wear I could get from it. I can imagine the attention alluded to by said previous poster. But it's cool. The normal suiting is still cool. There is some balance between the beautifully boring and edgy fashion with a choice for either while feeling all a bit more masculine. i disagree that O'shea is hipster. He's too hard. He'd kick a hipsters ass. And I think that is kind of the point. Brioni reasserting its history as a Man's trailblazing label. Bold, forward, affluent, and for powerful men, not boys and not the elderly.
And the logo is cool. Rant over