Originally Posted by unbelragazzo
This cast represents the future of bespoke tailoring - strewn across the globe, with a large diversity of backgrounds, but with an increasingly homogenous product.
But the most striking thing about the assembled coats was that the borders of the various tailoring traditions seem to have blurred. Whereas the six coats of the senior tailors at last year’s symposium could be associated with their makers immediately, the coats by the young tailors would be harder to place. And not only because these tailors have not yet achieved the renown of the older generation.
Perhaps this is the homogenizing influence of the Internet. Tailors of previous generations might have but sparse opportunities to see the handiwork of their brethren oceans away. But today they can access pictures at any moment, likely have plenty of clients in common, and meet in person at events such as this one.
Sometimes it is better not to be able to read nor to understand english so you would avoid replying.
And, I know, a good business is made of both good and bad talking about you, so here it goes.
I'll permit myself to respond to this quotes made by an unaquainted who clearly demonstrate to be stucked on his own ideals.
First of all, you should had consider that the "young symposium" have been made of one part of young tailors without a background, young people that decided, from one day to another, to start their own business, after few years of studying and stitching, and, another part supported from a long tradition, that come with a very strong historical background like myself.
My father is one of the old tailors which you are talking about and our work one of the most respected by all of them.
Just only by saying this, you would be able to identify differences from one to another garment - there are things that obviously cannot pass unobserved.
I don't want to linger on technicals but just to mention a pair of them, we are probably the only one in the world to make a jacket that is not skinny tight and very very far from the RTW concept, becuase the forms of our jacket are achieved with the handwork and not by tightening the jacket on the chest or at the waist, our cut is more an elegant drape cut - all the other jackets had a very different setting that make our jacket very different from the others.
Secondly we make a unique shoulder, it is not roped, it is not sloped. It is rounded but with an anatomical shoulder concept of the homerus bone. Our armhole is the smallest ever with a fuller sleeve. Our front quarters are more closed and with a sobre vertical closure. Our lapels have a very slight belly, because in Milano we always had that " a very slight belly lapel shape".
Everything of these components are part of our historical heritage, it's our heritage and experience mixed together with our taste.
This is a unique mixture.
Of course, when you asked me during the Symposium if anything could be innovated, my response was no, because there is nothing that can be innovated. If you read the thousand books on the art of tailoring the reply to your question was there.
But obviously you are not well informed. So, if you want to make the work of "tailor journalist" and judge what should and what should not be, and what it is and what it was, please document yourself and present yourself with proper garments not with the things made by RTW.
In this world, everyone can express its own opinion and you decided to do it publicly here.
I decided to reply to this message not because I would take your observations into account, but only to let other people know that not always what it's being written correspond to the reality and, quite often, it happens that bespoke journalist unfortunately are not competent people that have the capacities to really understand this complex world, made of sacrifices and years of studies.
I replied because if everyone will stay silent, this message will be passed as "correct" when it is expressed by an incompetent person.
There are some people who can see the small things that make the world, others that, also if explained, will never understand them.