Originally Posted by Whirling
I know there is information out there, but I wanted a summary of advice from experts on how much one can expect different types of denim to shrink with washing and then stretch with wear.
So, I know there is sanforized and unsanforized.
I know there is raw, one wash, and more intensive washing.
I know there are very different weights of denim from 11 oz to 21+ oz.
This provides a lot of cominations.
In terms of stretch, I don't like to wear any type of pants too tight, so I imagine this would limit stretch, yes?
From measuring old pants and jeans with the lie flat and multiply by two method, I would like the resulting waist size to be 34.5 - 35 inches. (Are there nuances to measuring this way?)
How much shrinkage does one get around the thighs?
It is isn't super critical as I can always cuff extra for a bit, how about length shrinkage?
I would be talking about Japanese denim or high-end American denim...
Examples of what I am considering, Flat Head raw, unsanforized; Kapital one wash; OrSlow one wash.
Thanks so much! Of course, if there is a great resource for this that I should just read through, please let me know!
One wash jeans will have little to no shrinkage, and the same amount of stretching. Raw sanforized denim, you can expect about 1-3% shrinkage. Unsanforized, you can expect up to 10%, in any direction, though shrinkage is usually higher along the length rather than the width, due to the way denim is cut. For unsanforized denim, you can also expect a "twist" in the leg seam. This is something that is more "authentic", though not, obviously, for everyone.
The amount of stretch and shrinkage depends much more on the weave and yarn then on the weight. Momotaros, for example, are very tightly woven, generally, and you can expect very little stretching, even after a lot of wear. On the other hand, something like Studio D'Artisan is quite low tension and a fairly slack weave, and stretch a fair bit.
If you want the end waist to be 34.5-35", get some jeans that are snug but not tight or uncomfortable, maybe 33.5-34". that will stretch out to about 35" readily, for most brands.