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Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice - Page 2

post #16 of 298
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Renault78law View Post

A bunch of members bought new old stock JM Handmades some 10 years ago. Gosh, those were the days. Search my username for a few leads. I still have mine but they're in need of a resole, and frankly, they're just sitting because I'm not sure who I'd trust to do the job.

 

I can recommend Nick at B Nelson in NYC. His email is nickv@bnelsonshoes.com. Check their website for details. Here are some pictures of a resole job they did on some shell Florsheims with JR soles.

 

post #17 of 298

Just picked up these hardly worn vintage Bostonian Crown Windsor shell PTBs from ebay yesterday for $85!  Nearly brand new.

 

 

post #18 of 298
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MattRiv View Post
 

Just picked up these hardly worn vintage Bostonian Crown Windsor shell PTBs from ebay yesterday for $85!  Nearly brand new.

 

 

What a great find and price. Is that a brown, a whiskey color or just odd exposure for a #8? Either way, they are great and will last you for years and years.

post #19 of 298

Great thread, guys.  Just wanted to send a PSA for the narrow footed gents.  NOS Florsheim Imperial Shell PTB 9B on ebay (not my listing).

post #20 of 298
Quote:
Originally Posted by smfdoc View Post
 

What a great find and price. Is that a brown, a whiskey color or just odd exposure for a #8? Either way, they are great and will last you for years and years.

I don't have them in my possession yet, but was wondering that myself.  To me, they look like a sun exposed #8, but I have on idea how to tell.  The interior number seems to read 2168 and I couldn't find anything on google about the shoe.

 

 

I think these might've been from the early 90s, but it looks like they've been hardly worn and have had no wax applied to them.  I can't wait to see them!

post #21 of 298
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MattRiv View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by smfdoc View Post
 

What a great find and price. Is that a brown, a whiskey color or just odd exposure for a #8? Either way, they are great and will last you for years and years.

I don't have them in my possession yet, but was wondering that myself.  To me, they look like a sun exposed #8, but I have on idea how to tell.  The interior number seems to read 2168 and I couldn't find anything on google about the shoe.

 

 

I think these might've been from the early 90s, but it looks like they've been hardly worn and have had no wax applied to them.  I can't wait to see them!

 

Bostonian – seems to have shell models in their regular and Crown Windsor lines. I found the following information for shell and the various shoe styles, with style numbers.


Shell longwings: 2351, 5800 – has “Genuine Shell Cordovan” stamped in the bottom sole waist, 7 nail Goodyear rubber heel toplift.
Shell shortwings: 23608
Shell ptbs: 23319 (#8)
Shell tassels: 23628 (#8) 29258; 23321, 29241 (black)
Shell #8 penny loafers 23302
Shell #8 loafers tassels with kilties 23304
Shell lhs: 0351617?
Shell saddles: 23120

 

Bostonians (not to be confused with Bostonian)
PTB #8 553

 

So, it appears that nearly all Bostonian shoes are #8, with the exception of a shell tassel loafer they made in black. We shall see. Be sure to post what you find once they arrive.

post #22 of 298
Quote:
Originally Posted by smfdoc View Post
 

 

Bostonian – seems to have shell models in their regular and Crown Windsor lines. I found the following information for shell and the various shoe styles, with style numbers.


Shell longwings: 2351, 5800 – has “Genuine Shell Cordovan” stamped in the bottom sole waist, 7 nail Goodyear rubber heel toplift.
Shell shortwings: 23608
Shell ptbs: 23319 (#8)
Shell tassels: 23628 (#8) 29258; 23321, 29241 (black)
Shell #8 penny loafers 23302
Shell #8 loafers tassels with kilties 23304
Shell lhs: 0351617?
Shell saddles: 23120

 

Bostonians (not to be confused with Bostonian)
PTB #8 553

 

So, it appears that nearly all Bostonian shoes are #8, with the exception of a shell tassel loafer they made in black. We shall see. Be sure to post what you find once they arrive.

 

I looked on those lists as well, but only saw the two short wings with 4 digit style #s.  What I do know is that they are 12 B, shell cordovan PTBs from the Crown Windsor line.  Everything else at this point is gravy!

post #23 of 298
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MattRiv View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by smfdoc View Post
 

 

Bostonian – seems to have shell models in their regular and Crown Windsor lines. I found the following information for shell and the various shoe styles, with style numbers.


Shell longwings: 2351, 5800 – has “Genuine Shell Cordovan” stamped in the bottom sole waist, 7 nail Goodyear rubber heel toplift.
Shell shortwings: 23608
Shell ptbs: 23319 (#8)
Shell tassels: 23628 (#8) 29258; 23321, 29241 (black)
Shell #8 penny loafers 23302
Shell #8 loafers tassels with kilties 23304
Shell lhs: 0351617?
Shell saddles: 23120

 

Bostonians (not to be confused with Bostonian)
PTB #8 553

 

So, it appears that nearly all Bostonian shoes are #8, with the exception of a shell tassel loafer they made in black. We shall see. Be sure to post what you find once they arrive.

 

I looked on those lists as well, but only saw the two short wings with 4 digit style #s.  What I do know is that they are 12 B, shell cordovan PTBs from the Crown Windsor line.  Everything else at this point is gravy!

Be sure to let me know if you are able to determine the style number on the Bostonian shell shoes. That way I can update my list. For those who are interested, the "List" of shoes that use Horween leather can be located here. Check it out. I personally copied it and placed it in the notes section of my iPhone. This way it is available when I run across shoes in my thrift store outings. It has been useful several times.

post #24 of 298
Thread Starter 

A co-worker was remarking about the weight of my vintage Florshiems the other day. This seems to be a preoccupation for those whose idea of proper footwear are cross trainers. David at VCleat.com elected to do some research on the weight of Long Wing Bluchers and a few other shoes to determine which of these were the heaviest and he compared the following shoes:

 

 

These were the blucher shoes that were weighed (left to right: Nettleton; Florsheim Imperial; FootJoy; Florsheim Royal Imperial; Alden). Picture used by permission.

 

Other shoes were in the mix and he found the Footjoy to be the heaviest shoe of the group. Perhaps my co-worker was correct as the Florsheim Imperial came in a close second. Check out the entire post by clicking here.

post #25 of 298
Received my vintage Bostonian shell PTBs today.





They're very tight compared to other 12 Bs I have, maybe too tight for me to keep. They are nowhere near even broken in at this point. I would estimate under 10 wears. I love the lighter color compared to my vintage Florsheims. I guess they are still #8 though. Beautiful shoes.



The construction is very high quality. They are from the Crown Windsor line and are stamped 2168. I'd guess they were in the late 80s or early 90s.



Edit: after a prolonged wear around the house this evening they are fitting quite a bit better and I believe they'll break im just fine.
Edited by MattRiv - 7/25/16 at 6:41pm
post #26 of 298
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MattRiv View Post

Received my vintage Bostonian shell PTBs today.
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Warning: Spoiler (Click to show)

They're very tight compared to other 12 Bs I have, maybe too tight for me to keep. They are nowhere near even broken in at this point. I would estimate under 10 wears. I love the lighter color compared to my vintage Florsheims. I guess they are still #8 though. Beautiful shoes.
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
The construction is very high quality. They are from the Crown Windsor line and are stamped 2168. I'd guess they were in the late 80s or early 90s.
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Edit: after a prolonged wear around the house this evening they are fitting quite a bit better and I believe they'll break im just fine.

Those are really great looking shoes and I hope they continue to break in. Thanks for the style number and I will update my master list. That same number was used on black PTB seen below. The lining stamp said 2168 292530061 1 10 1/2 C / A. So maybe it is not a style number as yours are clearly not black.


Edited by smfdoc - 7/25/16 at 8:11pm
post #27 of 298

Thanks smfdoc for all the nice comments of my blog - vcleat.com

 

Below are a pair of Florsheim 30679 Varsity that I fixed up this past weekend. I wore them around today and they fit great. The leather was in great shape for being nearly 50 years old. Keepers.

 

I got them for $25 on eBay (plus shipping). Which seems like a bargain. But with vintage shoes, you never know what your getting until you open the box. Could be great. Or crap. But its usually something between those.

 

post #28 of 298
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidVC View Post
 

Thanks smfdoc for all the nice comments of my blog - vcleat.com

 

Below are a pair of Florsheim 30679 Varsity that I fixed up this past weekend. I wore them around today and they fit great. The leather was in great shape for being nearly 50 years old. Keepers.

 

I got them for $25 on eBay (plus shipping). Which seems like a bargain. But with vintage shoes, you never know what your getting until you open the box. Could be great. Or crap. But its usually something between those.

 

 

Those look great.

 

I noticed you recently posted a very similar pair of Bostonian shell PTBs on your blog and was wondering if you had any insight into how old the pair I posted above might be?  I can't find any good info on the differences in logos for Bostonian, similar to the information you provided for the Florsheim Kenmoors.

post #29 of 298
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MattRiv View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidVC View Post
 

Thanks smfdoc for all the nice comments of my blog - vcleat.com

 

Below are a pair of Florsheim 30679 Varsity that I fixed up this past weekend. I wore them around today and they fit great. The leather was in great shape for being nearly 50 years old. Keepers.

 

I noticed you recently posted a very similar pair of Bostonian shell PTBs on your blog and was wondering if you had any insight into how old the pair I posted above might be?  I can't find any good info on the differences in logos for Bostonian, similar to the information you provided for the Florsheim Kenmoors.

Information on Bostonian logos would be useful. I just picked up some Bostonian PTH and could recognize it by some of the stitching and the arrangement of the size and style lettering. The insole had a VERY faint log that included "IAN" that helped lead me to conclude it was Bostonian. It was certainly a different logo than seen on @MattRiv shoes seen earlier.

post #30 of 298
Thread Starter 

Sometimes "Vintage" simply refers to a number of years and many people use 20 as an arbitrary number. But vintage can also refer to a style or material that is associated with a specific earlier time. With that in mind, the split toe Belmont by Allen Edmonds becomes vintage by its leather as opposed to the split toe design. The shark version of the Belmont was released in 2002. This very distinctive shoe is remarkable for the toughness of the shark. To date, I have yet to see a single scratch or scuff on the leather. It seems just tough as nails.

 

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